Snapdragons thrive in nutrient-rich, well-draining soil like Miracle-Gro® Moisture Control® Garden Soil. For outdoor planting, choose a sunny spot with ample spacing of 6 to 12 inches. In containers, use a pot that is at least 12 inches deep and wide, providing the roots with enough space to expand and thrive. Also, make sure the pot has good drainage to keep those roots from getting waterlogged.

 Snapdragons are versatile plants that effortlessly blend into any garden. They complement summer blooms like petunias, lavender, and sunflowers, as well as aromatic herbs like rosemary and sage.

Different varieties of snapdragons have single, double, or frilly petals and come in many vibrant colours. The most common variations are tall snapdragons that feature flowers with broad petals on strong stems, dwarf snapdragons that boast delicate blooms in an array of colours on short stems, and double snapdragons which feature multiple rows of ruffled petals.

Snapdragons generally are resistant to pests, but it’s important to keep an eye out for aphids and thrips. If you happen to spot any of these pests, it’s recommended to employ natural methods such as using an insecticidal soap like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap or rinsing the foliage thoroughly with a forceful stream of water to dislodge any potential invaders.

Insufficient sunlight exposure or subpar fertility conditions. To ensure your Snapdragons thrive, ensure your plants receive a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. To improve soil fertility, you can enhance it by incorporating a nutrient boost like Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food. This will enrich the environment for your plants and promote their growth. Also, to encourage the formation of new buds, try deadheading to clear up any withered blossoms.

Fungal disease. This tends to appear in warm and humid climates. To prevent and treat this condition, ensure adequate air circulation between plants by leaving sufficient space when planting, avoid wetting the foliage during watering sessions, and use fungicides if necessary.

Over watering or under watering. Excess moisture can result in root rot, hindering your flowers’ ability to absorb essential nutrients. Conversely, a lack of moisture can cause your flowers to dry out or wither. To ensure optimal growth, carefully assess soil moisture levels and adjust watering practices accordingly.

Insufficient sunlight. To address this, try moving the plant to a spot that ensures 6 hours of sunlight. Additionally, consider pruning the leggy stems and using supports such as stakes or trellises to help the stalks stand tall.

Mint does not need to be fussed over which makes it perfect for first-time gardeners. When planting your mint consider using a well-draining soil that can help with moisture control, like Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Garden Soil. This soil helps to prevent from over- and under-watering your mint plant.

Luckily, mint is an easy herb to find companion plants for. You can take your pick of popular home garden veggies such as: carrots, cabbage, kale, tomatoes, bell peppers, beans and even zucchini.

Frequent harvesting is important to keeping your mint flourishing. Young leaves have more flavour than older leaves. With this in mind, you can start harvesting your mint as soon as it comes up this spring.

If you see your mint plant drooping, there might be a pest problem. Common pests you might see with mint plants are aphids, mealy bugs, spider mites, or flea beetles. If you are seeing curling leaves or holes in your leaves, these are tell-tale signs of pests. Don’t worry, there is an easy fix. You can use a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap Ready-To-Use to safely and quickly get rid of those little nuisances.

You’ve got options.

Once you pick a few sprigs from your mint plant, you can keep them in water for a few days. It is best to use your mint while it is fresh, about 3-5 days. If you are looking to dry your mint leaves, cut them right before flowering and let the leave air dry. Once dry, store the dried mint in an air-tight container.

Or you can just pick the leaves from your mint plant as you need them.

More sunlight. Most of the time, if your mint plant is looking thin and leggy it is lacking sunlight or water or nutrients. The best way to prevent mint from getting leggy is to make sure it is growing in a warm spot that gets lots of light. Keep it in a big pot with well-draining and nutrient rich soil.

Under-watering. This is easy to fix. Try watering your mint on a schedule, aiming for once or twice a week. Be sure to water under the leaves and close to the soil so you don’t damage the leaves.

Healthy, ready to use mint is a deep, rich green. If your mint is yellow and falling, it is likely due to its growing conditions. Keep your mint plant in full or partial sun, with a well-draining potting mix like Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Garden Soil. Make sure you water your mint whenever the top of the soil is dry, usually about twice a week.

Your Alocasia needs a well-draining potting mix. The Miracle-Gro® Indoor Potting Mix contains coconut coir and perlite to hold onto and release moisture as your plant needs it. If you find that your plant is wanting a little extra, you can add in some Miracle-Gro® Cactus, Palm & Succulent Potting Mix. Adding this succulent mix helps keep your soil light and airy.

Like most indoor tropical plants, the best time to repot is in the spring or summer, when your plant is strong. Your alocasia will likely want to be repotted every 18 – 24 months. When you’re selecting its new pot, choose one that is about 2 – 4” bigger than its current one.

To propagate your alocasia, use the division method. Remove the plant from its pot and separate a small clump of roots from the main rootball. Replant the small clump into a new pot with fresh soil. Make sure it’s buried at the same depth as the original plant.

Your alocasia may be more prone to spidermites than your other indoor plants. To help prevent those nasty mites from appearing, make sure your plant doesn’t dry out too much over the winter. If you see spidermites on your alocasia, you can use Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap Ready-To-Use. Spray this insecticidal soap on your plant to eliminate those pesky mites.

Not enough humidity or dry soil. Your alocasia could probably use a good watering. If you’re already on a watering schedule and you’re still noticing dying leaves, consider increasing the humidity in the room.

Overwatering. Allow the soil to dry out a bit before watering your plant again. For future waterings, make sure the soil is about 25-50% dry before watering.

Probably a sunburn. If your alocasia is too close to bright, direct light then it’s time to move it away. Your alocasia wants to be in bright but indirect light, so find a spot that isn’t right in front of a window. If your lighting is okay, then it could be fertilizer burn. To fix this, drain any accumulated fertilizer from the potting mix, or repot with fresh soil.

Fungal infection. Poor light and warm, humid conditions can be responsible for fungus. To prevent this make sure the leaves stay as dry as possible. Instead of overhead watering, opt for bottom watering or watering straws instead. Be sure to remove any dead, decaying or diseased plant matter from your alocasia’s pot.

Whether poinsettia is growing indoors or outdoors, they prefer a loose, well-draining potting mix. Consider using Miracle-Gro® Moisture Control® Potting Mix. You can also add Perlite and Peat Moss to your soil for some added nutrients.

As your poinsettia grows, so does its roots. To avoid your poinsettia getting root-bound, repot it in the spring. It’s generally recommended that by mid-May, your poinsettia will be ready to repot. Choose a pot that is about 2 inches wider and deeper than its current pot. And of course, refresh the soil when you repot.

The most common way to propagate poinsettia is by taking a cutting. Propagating from cuttings ensures a clone of the parent plant. No surprises! To start, wait until the spring to take your cutting. Using sharp scissors or pruners, cut a 3 – 4 inch stem from the parent plant. Then cut off a few of the lower leaves to promote root growth from the cut edge. Be sure to leave at least 3 leaves at the top of the cutting. Transplant your cutting to a small container with well-draining potting mix such as using Miracle-Gro® Seed Starting Potting Mix. Keep your cutting in a bright, humid area, and mist the leaves regularly to stimulate growth.

Whiteflies are the most common pests for poinsettias. Do regular checks under the leaves of your poinsettia and keep an eye out for clumps of greenish eggs. Use a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide Ready-to-Use to easily and quickly get rid of white flies.

Bacterial rot. This causes the base or stem of the cuttings to become mushy and eventually collapse. You may also notice a smell surrounding your plant, which is also caused by this bacterial infection. You may be able to mitigate this by proper watering and misting practices. It’s best to cut off misting and watering for a while once you notice the stems are a little soft.

Temperature fluctuations. Sudden temperature fluctuations will shock these tropical plants. To keep your poinsettia happy, make sure it’s in a bright space that can also receive a few hours of shade or darkness. Be sure to keep your plant away from radiators, fireplaces and space heaters too.

Could be spider mites. These little pests feed off the plant’s sap, causing the leaves to turn pale and sometimes develop little red spots. If you catch spider mites early enough, you may be able to salvage your plant. Use a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide Ready-to-Use to gently take care of this problem. A recovering poinsettia will perk up and brighten up within a week or two.

Over- or underwatering. Both over and under-watering your poinsettia will cause its leaves to droop or look wilted. If you’re over-watering your plant, be sure to let its soil dry out a bit. Discard any excess water at the bottom of its pot to prevent it from sitting water and developing root rot. If you’re underwatering, consider boosting your watering routine with Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food for the next two watering cycles. You can also start misting the leaves of your poinsettia to increase its water in-take. But don’t overdo it, let the soil dry out a bit between watering.

Hollyhock will do well in almost any soil but prefers a well-drained soil. The most important factor is good air circulation, so do not crowd plants or plant too close to structures, hedges or other plants.  

Hollyhocks make excellent companions for Dahlias, Clematis, Shasta Daisies, Shrub Roses, Baby’s Breath, Black-eyed Susan, or Climbing Roses.  

Hollyhocks have single or double, cup-shaped flowers with little or no stalk and bloom on tall spikes. Hollyhocks come in a wide variety of colours: blue, pink, purple, red, white, yellow and even black. 

Rust is a leaf disease to which hollyhocks are especially prone. It is worse on older plants and can be kept in check by replacing plants every couple of years. 

Rust is a common problem with hollyhocks and can cause the plants to look ragged. Brown, yellow or orange spots appear as the fungus forms and grows. The damaged leaves will fall off as the disease progresses. Control fungi through proper removal and disposal of infected plants and with a general fungicide. 

High winds or torrential rains can damage hollyhocks because of the sheer height of the flowers. The stalks are strong, but can be knocked around by a summer storm. A trellis positioned behind the hollyhocks gives you a place to anchor the plants. Garden twine, looped around the stalk and fastened to the trellis, keeps the hollyhocks in place when strong winds hit the garden. 

Japanese beetles love the large leaves of the hollyhock plant and create unsightly holes in the foliage. The hibiscus sawfly looks like an elongated housefly with an orange spot just below the head. The larvae of these pests eat the foliage and can completely destroy the leaves on several plants in a short time. Insecticidal soaps and beetle traps generally aid in ridding the hollyhocks of the pests. 

Some caterpillars cause hollyhock stems to break and leaves to wilt. Close examination shows small round holes in the stems. Control stalk borers by slitting each affected stem lengthwise, removing the borers, and binding the stems together. Practice clean cultivation and burn all weeds, stems and plant remains likely to harbor over-wintering eggs. 

A fungal stem canker attacks hollyhocks at bloom time on rare occasions. Stem lesions are first dark brown and later ash-gray. As these spots girdle the stem the part above wilts, collapses, breaks off and dies. Remove and destroy infected plants or plant parts as soon as you notice them. Disinfect clippers and other tools after using them on cankered plants. Space plants farther apart to minimize splash-borne infection. 

Hollyhock will do well in almost any soil but prefers a well-drained soil. The most important factor is good air circulation, so do not crowd plants or plant too close to structures, hedges or other plants.  

Hollyhocks make excellent companions for Dahlias, Clematis, Shasta Daisies, Shrub Roses, Baby’s Breath, Black-eyed Susan, or Climbing Roses.  

Hollyhocks have single or double, cup-shaped flowers with little or no stalk and bloom on tall spikes. Hollyhocks come in a wide variety of colours: blue, pink, purple, red, white, yellow and even black. 

Rust is a leaf disease to which hollyhocks are especially prone. It is worse on older plants and can be kept in check by replacing plants every couple of years. 

Rust is a common problem with hollyhocks and can cause the plants to look ragged. Brown, yellow or orange spots appear as the fungus forms and grows. The damaged leaves will fall off as the disease progresses. Control fungi through proper removal and disposal of infected plants and with a general fungicide. 

High winds or torrential rains can damage hollyhocks because of the sheer height of the flowers. The stalks are strong, but can be knocked around by a summer storm. A trellis positioned behind the hollyhocks gives you a place to anchor the plants. Garden twine, looped around the stalk and fastened to the trellis, keeps the hollyhocks in place when strong winds hit the garden. 

Japanese beetles love the large leaves of the hollyhock plant and create unsightly holes in the foliage. The hibiscus sawfly looks like an elongated housefly with an orange spot just below the head. The larvae of these pests eat the foliage and can completely destroy the leaves on several plants in a short time. Insecticidal soaps and beetle traps generally aid in ridding the hollyhocks of the pests. 

Some caterpillars cause hollyhock stems to break and leaves to wilt. Close examination shows small round holes in the stems. Control stalk borers by slitting each affected stem lengthwise, removing the borers, and binding the stems together. Practice clean cultivation and burn all weeds, stems and plant remains likely to harbor over-wintering eggs. 

A fungal stem canker attacks hollyhocks at bloom time on rare occasions. Stem lesions are first dark brown and later ash-gray. As these spots girdle the stem the part above wilts, collapses, breaks off and dies. Remove and destroy infected plants or plant parts as soon as you notice them. Disinfect clippers and other tools after using them on cankered plants. Space plants farther apart to minimize splash-borne infection. 

Hollyhock will do well in almost any soil but prefers a well-drained soil. The most important factor is good air circulation, so do not crowd plants or plant too close to structures, hedges or other plants.  

Hollyhocks make excellent companions for Dahlias, Clematis, Shasta Daisies, Shrub Roses, Baby’s Breath, Black-eyed Susan, or Climbing Roses.  

Hollyhocks have single or double, cup-shaped flowers with little or no stalk and bloom on tall spikes. Hollyhocks come in a wide variety of colours: blue, pink, purple, red, white, yellow and even black. 

Rust is a leaf disease to which hollyhocks are especially prone. It is worse on older plants and can be kept in check by replacing plants every couple of years. 

Rust is a common problem with hollyhocks and can cause the plants to look ragged. Brown, yellow or orange spots appear as the fungus forms and grows. The damaged leaves will fall off as the disease progresses. Control fungi through proper removal and disposal of infected plants and with a general fungicide. 

High winds or torrential rains can damage hollyhocks because of the sheer height of the flowers. The stalks are strong, but can be knocked around by a summer storm. A trellis positioned behind the hollyhocks gives you a place to anchor the plants. Garden twine, looped around the stalk and fastened to the trellis, keeps the hollyhocks in place when strong winds hit the garden. 

Japanese beetles love the large leaves of the hollyhock plant and create unsightly holes in the foliage. The hibiscus sawfly looks like an elongated housefly with an orange spot just below the head. The larvae of these pests eat the foliage and can completely destroy the leaves on several plants in a short time. Insecticidal soaps and beetle traps generally aid in ridding the hollyhocks of the pests. 

Some caterpillars cause hollyhock stems to break and leaves to wilt. Close examination shows small round holes in the stems. Control stalk borers by slitting each affected stem lengthwise, removing the borers, and binding the stems together. Practice clean cultivation and burn all weeds, stems and plant remains likely to harbor over-wintering eggs. 

A fungal stem canker attacks hollyhocks at bloom time on rare occasions. Stem lesions are first dark brown and later ash-gray. As these spots girdle the stem the part above wilts, collapses, breaks off and dies. Remove and destroy infected plants or plant parts as soon as you notice them. Disinfect clippers and other tools after using them on cankered plants. Space plants farther apart to minimize splash-borne infection. 

Hollyhock will do well in almost any soil but prefers a well-drained soil. The most important factor is good air circulation, so do not crowd plants or plant too close to structures, hedges or other plants.  

Hollyhocks make excellent companions for Dahlias, Clematis, Shasta Daisies, Shrub Roses, Baby’s Breath, Black-eyed Susan, or Climbing Roses.  

Hollyhocks have single or double, cup-shaped flowers with little or no stalk and bloom on tall spikes. Hollyhocks come in a wide variety of colours: blue, pink, purple, red, white, yellow and even black. 

Rust is a leaf disease to which hollyhocks are especially prone. It is worse on older plants and can be kept in check by replacing plants every couple of years. 

Rust is a common problem with hollyhocks and can cause the plants to look ragged. Brown, yellow or orange spots appear as the fungus forms and grows. The damaged leaves will fall off as the disease progresses. Control fungi through proper removal and disposal of infected plants and with a general fungicide. 

High winds or torrential rains can damage hollyhocks because of the sheer height of the flowers. The stalks are strong, but can be knocked around by a summer storm. A trellis positioned behind the hollyhocks gives you a place to anchor the plants. Garden twine, looped around the stalk and fastened to the trellis, keeps the hollyhocks in place when strong winds hit the garden. 

Japanese beetles love the large leaves of the hollyhock plant and create unsightly holes in the foliage. The hibiscus sawfly looks like an elongated housefly with an orange spot just below the head. The larvae of these pests eat the foliage and can completely destroy the leaves on several plants in a short time. Insecticidal soaps and beetle traps generally aid in ridding the hollyhocks of the pests. 

Some caterpillars cause hollyhock stems to break and leaves to wilt. Close examination shows small round holes in the stems. Control stalk borers by slitting each affected stem lengthwise, removing the borers, and binding the stems together. Practice clean cultivation and burn all weeds, stems and plant remains likely to harbor over-wintering eggs. 

A fungal stem canker attacks hollyhocks at bloom time on rare occasions. Stem lesions are first dark brown and later ash-gray. As these spots girdle the stem the part above wilts, collapses, breaks off and dies. Remove and destroy infected plants or plant parts as soon as you notice them. Disinfect clippers and other tools after using them on cankered plants. Space plants farther apart to minimize splash-borne infection. 

Hollyhock will do well in almost any soil but prefers a well-drained soil. The most important factor is good air circulation, so do not crowd plants or plant too close to structures, hedges or other plants.  

Hollyhocks make excellent companions for Dahlias, Clematis, Shasta Daisies, Shrub Roses, Baby’s Breath, Black-eyed Susan, or Climbing Roses.  

Hollyhocks have single or double, cup-shaped flowers with little or no stalk and bloom on tall spikes. Hollyhocks come in a wide variety of colours: blue, pink, purple, red, white, yellow and even black. 

Rust is a leaf disease to which hollyhocks are especially prone. It is worse on older plants and can be kept in check by replacing plants every couple of years. 

Rust is a common problem with hollyhocks and can cause the plants to look ragged. Brown, yellow or orange spots appear as the fungus forms and grows. The damaged leaves will fall off as the disease progresses. Control fungi through proper removal and disposal of infected plants and with a general fungicide. 

High winds or torrential rains can damage hollyhocks because of the sheer height of the flowers. The stalks are strong, but can be knocked around by a summer storm. A trellis positioned behind the hollyhocks gives you a place to anchor the plants. Garden twine, looped around the stalk and fastened to the trellis, keeps the hollyhocks in place when strong winds hit the garden. 

Japanese beetles love the large leaves of the hollyhock plant and create unsightly holes in the foliage. The hibiscus sawfly looks like an elongated housefly with an orange spot just below the head. The larvae of these pests eat the foliage and can completely destroy the leaves on several plants in a short time. Insecticidal soaps and beetle traps generally aid in ridding the hollyhocks of the pests. 

Some caterpillars cause hollyhock stems to break and leaves to wilt. Close examination shows small round holes in the stems. Control stalk borers by slitting each affected stem lengthwise, removing the borers, and binding the stems together. Practice clean cultivation and burn all weeds, stems and plant remains likely to harbor over-wintering eggs. 

A fungal stem canker attacks hollyhocks at bloom time on rare occasions. Stem lesions are first dark brown and later ash-gray. As these spots girdle the stem the part above wilts, collapses, breaks off and dies. Remove and destroy infected plants or plant parts as soon as you notice them. Disinfect clippers and other tools after using them on cankered plants. Space plants farther apart to minimize splash-borne infection. 

Hollyhock will do well in almost any soil but prefers a well-drained soil. The most important factor is good air circulation, so do not crowd plants or plant too close to structures, hedges or other plants.  

Hollyhocks make excellent companions for Dahlias, Clematis, Shasta Daisies, Shrub Roses, Baby’s Breath, Black-eyed Susan, or Climbing Roses.  

Hollyhocks have single or double, cup-shaped flowers with little or no stalk and bloom on tall spikes. Hollyhocks come in a wide variety of colours: blue, pink, purple, red, white, yellow and even black. 

Rust is a leaf disease to which hollyhocks are especially prone. It is worse on older plants and can be kept in check by replacing plants every couple of years. 

Rust is a common problem with hollyhocks and can cause the plants to look ragged. Brown, yellow or orange spots appear as the fungus forms and grows. The damaged leaves will fall off as the disease progresses. Control fungi through proper removal and disposal of infected plants and with a general fungicide. 

High winds or torrential rains can damage hollyhocks because of the sheer height of the flowers. The stalks are strong, but can be knocked around by a summer storm. A trellis positioned behind the hollyhocks gives you a place to anchor the plants. Garden twine, looped around the stalk and fastened to the trellis, keeps the hollyhocks in place when strong winds hit the garden. 

Japanese beetles love the large leaves of the hollyhock plant and create unsightly holes in the foliage. The hibiscus sawfly looks like an elongated housefly with an orange spot just below the head. The larvae of these pests eat the foliage and can completely destroy the leaves on several plants in a short time. Insecticidal soaps and beetle traps generally aid in ridding the hollyhocks of the pests. 

Some caterpillars cause hollyhock stems to break and leaves to wilt. Close examination shows small round holes in the stems. Control stalk borers by slitting each affected stem lengthwise, removing the borers, and binding the stems together. Practice clean cultivation and burn all weeds, stems and plant remains likely to harbor over-wintering eggs. 

A fungal stem canker attacks hollyhocks at bloom time on rare occasions. Stem lesions are first dark brown and later ash-gray. As these spots girdle the stem the part above wilts, collapses, breaks off and dies. Remove and destroy infected plants or plant parts as soon as you notice them. Disinfect clippers and other tools after using them on cankered plants. Space plants farther apart to minimize splash-borne infection.