Materials & Tools

Lumber

• (8) Pressure-treated 2x4x8 
• (10) Pressure-treat 1x6x6 Fence Boards

Windows

• Salvaged windows (similar sizes will make construction much easier)

Fasteners

• 2½” exterior wood screws
• Brad nails 2.5 inch
• Door hinges 1.5 inch
• Vintage latch
• Decorative door knob
• (6) 1.5 inch L Brackets 

Paint & Finishing

• Pressure Treat Wood Preservative
• Exterior Stain or Paint (optional)
• Masking Liquid H2O (optional for painting on windows)
• Window Glaze (as needed)

Tools

• Drill
• Circular Saw (or plunge saw is optional) 
• Miter Saw 
• Jigsaw 

Gardening Supplies

• Miracle-Gro® Fruit & Veggie Shake ‘N Feed
• Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Shake ‘N Feed
• Miracle-Gro Potting Soil Mix for Indoor and Outdoor Container Plants
• Flowers, herbs, and vegetable plants

Step 1: Source Your Salvaged Windows

The windows are the heart of this project. Look for old wooden windows at salvage stores, online marketplaces, or local buy-and-sell groups.

Find windows that are relatively similar in size. They don’t have to match perfectly, but the closer they are, the easier the build will be.

Lay them all out on the ground first and experiment with different layouts until you find one that works. This step is a little like putting together a puzzle, but it’s worth taking your time before making any cuts.

I chose to make a cube shape with a slanting roof.

NOTE ABOUT WORKING WITH RECLAIMED WINDOWS:  

Before sanding, scraping, or stripping old paint, it’s always a good idea to do a lead paint test, especially on windows from homes built before the late 1970s. Lead test kits are inexpensive, easy to use, and can be purchased online or at most hardware stores.

If the test comes back positive, avoid dry sanding or scraping the paint, as this can release hazardous lead dust into the air. Instead, use a chemical paint stripper designed for lead-safe paint removal or wet scraping/wet sanding techniques to keep dust to a minimum. Be sure to wear appropriate personal protective equipment (gloves, eye protection, and a properly fitted respirator) and clean up thoroughly using wet wiping or a HEPA vacuum.

Step 2: Restoring Old Windows

Salvaged windows usually need a little “TLC.”

Scrape away any loose or peeling paint using a paint scraper. If the glazing around the glass has deteriorated, remove the damaged material and apply fresh window glaze to reseal the glass.

If one of your windows needs to be resized to match the sizing of others (which is what I had to do), use a saw to trim the wooden frame only – never cut through the glass.

NOTE ABOUT WORKING WITH PRESSURE-TREATED: Once all pressure-treated lumber is cut, seal all cut ends with a PT wood preservative to help prevent moisture damage and rot.

Step 3: Greenhouse Base

The base raises the greenhouse off the ground, helping protect it from excess moisture, creating valuable storage underneath, and placing it at an optimal height to save your back while gardening!

My Cut List : 

• (4) 2×4 PT lumber at 28 inches (legs)
• (4) 2×4 PT lumber at 30½ inches (table frame depth)
• (8) 2×4 PT lumber at 32 inches (table frame width & Support Joists)

*Before adding screws, make sure to pre-drill all screw holes to avoid wood splitting.

Start with your table frames. Build two identical rectangles, making sure to orient the (2) 32” lumber to be front facing with (2) 30 1/2” lumber budded up, square, on the inside. Fasten two screws from the front on each end. 

Connect the two frames using the (4) 28” legs set at each inside corner, spacing the top rectangle (base top) and the bottom rectangle (shelf) approximately 13½ inches apart. Secure with wood screws.

Step 4: Add the Base Shelving

Spaced equally apart, Install two support joists across the inside of the top and bottom frame. These supports should fit tightly between the frame, so don’t be afraid to tap them into place with a mallet before fastening.

Cut the PT 1×6 fence boards to fit the width of your base. Install them horizontally across both the top surface and the lower storage shelf. Leave a slight overhang on each end of the top boards to create a finished look. 

On the bottom shelf, use a jigsaw to notch the boards that meet the corner legs so they slip neatly around the posts, then secure everything with a brad nailer.

Step 5: Assemble The Greenhouse

Once the base is complete, it’s time to build the greenhouse itself!

Some reclaimed windows may need to be trimmed to help square the edges, or simply to make them smaller, while others will need to be framed using PT lumber to make it bigger. 

To determine my PT framing, I measured the width of the windows and cut down 2x4x8 PT lumber to the same width and size. This can be done using a tablesaw, circular saw or plunge saw. I like to add pressure-treated framing to help square the house and give the windows additional structure when securing together with wood screws. 

Using the same cut PT framing, I added a front crossbar at the top for additional support. Secure your windows into the desired framing shape with wood screws. 

*OPTIONAL: If you pick a similar shape greenhouse,  the roof will create triangular gaps near the gables. Feel free to leave this open (air flow is good!), or cut matching triangular pieces from pressure-treated lumber to close everything in. 

Install the door using two door hinges. At this point, your greenhouse should be fully standing on its own!

Step 6: Finish and Paint the Greenhouse

Sand any visible lumber markings from the pressure-treated wood and apply wood preservative over any areas that are needed.

If your pressure-treated lumber is dry enough to paint, you can apply a light exterior stain or paint to enhance the look of your greenhouse. 

PAINTING PRESSURE TREATED WOOD NOTE: If working with fresh pressure treated lumber, you may not be able to paint until it’s had time to thoroughly dry. If you paint PT while wet, the moisture from the wood will eventually surface, causing your paint to bubble and crack. 

PAINTING WINDOWS? Painting windows is tricky but here’s a cool DIY tip! Use a Masking Liquid first before painting. A masking liquid can be added right onto the glass and your frames. Once dry, it creates a protective barrier on the window glass allowing you to paint right onto the glass for easy painting. Once your paint is dry, simply score around the inner window pane and peel it away for perfectly clean glass with no paint left behind. 

For my door, I chose a bold red exterior paint to give the greenhouse a cheerful focal point, then finished it off with a vintage brass latch and a whimsical floral knob. Those little details are what really give this project its whimsical garden charm.

Step 7: Interior Shelves

To maximize growing space, I added shelving inside the greenhouse.

The shelving supports were built from 2×4 pressure-treated lumber that was cut into 1½” x 1½” pieces. These supports were secured into the inside corner framing of the greenhouse at the desired heights. 

The shelves, made from leftover fence boards, had one end cut at 45 degrees for easy access in the front, and were secured to the top of each cross support. 

I installed two shelves on the left side and a single shelf on the right, creating plenty of room for seedlings while still leaving space for taller plants in the middle.

Once the greenhouse was completed, I secured it to its base with 1.5-inch L-brackets.

Step 8: Fill It With Plants

Now for the best part! Fill your greenhouse with herbs, flowers, seedlings, or vegetables depending on the season.

I planted a mix of whimsical flowers, kitchen herbs, and vegetable plants to create a greenhouse that’s just as beautiful as it is functional.

I also keep Miracle-Gro® Fruit & Veggie Shake ‘N Feed and Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Shake ‘N Feed stocked on the lower shelf, so they’re always within reach whenever my plants need a nutrient boost throughout the growing season.

Final Thoughts

This project is proof that you don’t need a massive backyard to enjoy the benefits of a greenhouse.

With a handful of salvaged windows, some basic framing, and a little creativity, you can build a beautiful greenhouse that fits almost any outdoor space. 

Every collection of salvaged windows will be different, which means no two greenhouses will ever look exactly alike – and that’s what makes this project so special! Want to see more of these kinds of projects? Follow me on Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest.

Happy gardening, friends!

#happycreating!

Materials You’ll Need

• 1 Natural laminated pine (0.70-in x 15.25-in x 96-in) 
• 1 SPF Select Lumber – Pine (96” x 8” x 1”)
• 8” House Numbers 
• Solar Light
• Tape Measure
• Pencil
• Painters Tape
• T-Square, straight edge or ruler
• Various sizes of clamps
• Stain
• Paint
• Exterior wood varnish
• Wood Filler
• Wood Glue
• Brad Nails (1”)
• 3” Screws
• ⅜” Drill bit
• Landscaping Fabric
• Staples
• Work benches or a work surface
• Saftey glasses
• Hearing protection
• Mask

Tools

• Circular Saw
• Table Saw 
• Mitre Saw
• Brad Nailer or Pin Nailer
• Power Drill
• Level
• Staple Gun

Step 1: Make the First Cut

Start with the Natural laminated pine (0.70-in x 15.25-in x 96-in) and decide which side will be the face of the project, to which the house numbers will be attached. Measure 56” from the top and mark with a pencil. Using a T-Square or another straight edge, mark this measurement across. Measure 7” down from this marking, and use a straight edge to mark this as well. This marking will be the first cut.

Use clamps to hold the wood down to the work surface to prevent movement when making the cut. Be sure to wear safety glasses, ear protection, and a mask if you desire. Using a circular saw, make the cut following the second marking made. This will leave 40” of leftover material. Refer to the photos below.

Step 2: Cut the face of the Planter

Flip the remaining board to work on the factory-cut side; this will give the straightest edge to cut from. Measure 7” from the factory-cut side and, using a T-square or straight edge, mark this cut line with a pencil. Clamp the material to the work surface. Use the circular saw to make this cut. Repeat this step once more to create another 7” piece. Refer to the images below.

Step 3: Cut the Side Pieces

To construct the sides of the planter box, use one of the 7” pieces and mark 4 ½” in from the side with a pencil and a straightedge. This will create a 7” x 4 ½” piece. Use a mitre saw to make this cut. Using the leftover material from this cut, repeat the following steps to make another 7” x 4 ½” piece. This has created the two sides of the planter. Refer to the images below.

Step 4: Cut the Bottom an Add Drainage Holes

Now, make the bottom piece of the planter. This piece should measure 13 ½” x 4 ½”. Use the remaining piece of pine and measure 4 ½” up from the bottom of the piece. Mark this measurement using a T-Square and a pencil. Attach the wood to your work surface using clamps. Using the circular saw, cut along this line. Next, make drainage holes. Using a drill and a ⅜” drill bit, make 5 holes in the piece of wood evenly spaced. See attached reference images below.

Step 5: Construct the flower box

Now that all the base pieces have been cut, use wood glue to form a small bead along the edges of the side pieces. Use clamps to anchor the sides to the bottom of each side of the main board. Use a brad nailer and 1” brad nails to attach from the back side up into the side pieces. Once these are secure, remove the clamps. Add a small bead of glue around the sides and base of the planter.

Then place the bottom piece (the one with drainage holes) between the two side pieces, along the bottom of the main piece. Attach using the brad nailer through the side pieces into the bottom piece and through the back of the project into the bottom piece.

Next, apply another thin bead of wood glue to the front of the project and carefully align the face part of the planter box. Once this piece is aligned, attach with brad nails through the face of the planter into the sides and bottom of the planter box. Refer to the reference images below.

Step 6: Add the Finishing Trim around the Outside

The next step is to add the finishing trim. This will cover the brad nail holes and give the project a finished look. Using a table saw, cut the SPF Select Lumber – Pine (96” x 8” x 1”) into 1 ¼” strips lengthwise. This size will allow the trim to extrude from the sign, giving the project some depth.

Once the strips of pine have been cut on the table saw, hold the piece directly next to the project and mark the length of the right and left trim with a pencil. Be mindful that this will be cut at a 45-degree angle, and this measurement will be the inside edge of that 45-degree angle.

Cut the two long side pieces at a 45-degree angle, acknowledging that the 1 ¼” length is the correct orientation that will give you some overhang. Cut using a mitre saw.

Measure the bottom and top by holding up the 1 ¼” piece of wood to the bottom and top and marking the measurement with a pencil. Use a mitre saw to make this cut. Attach the right and left sides to the project using wood glue and a brad nailer. Refer to the images below.

Step 7: Add the Finishing Trim

Next, trim around the planter portion of the project. Using the 1 ¼” pine strips that were previously cut on the table saw, hold a piece of wood up to each side of the planter. Mark this measurement with a pencil, then cut along this mark at a 90-degree angle with a mitre saw. Create one piece for each side. Use a small bead of nail glue and attach with a brad nailer to each side of the planter. Refer to image one below.

Once these are attached, the next step is to create a frame around the planter’s face. These four pieces will be cut at a 45-degree angle. Use the same method as explained previously by holding up the 1 ¼” strips to the project along the front of the planter, marking this measurement with a pencil and then using the mitre saw to cut at a 45-degree angle. Repeat this for all four sides. Using a small bead of wood glue and a brad nailer, attach these pieces.

After these are attached, use the 1 ¼” strip of wood and hold it up to the side of the planter. This is the piece that will go in between the front and back and run along the sides. Cut these pieces at a 90-degree angle and use a small bead of wood glue and a brad nailer to attach them. Refer to the reference images below.

Step 8: Add the Top Finishing Trim

With the remaining 1 ¼” strips, measure the top of the planter on the left-hand side. Plan for a ¼” overhang on the top pieces. Mark this measurement with a pencil and then make a 45-degree cut on the mitre saw.

Once both sides are cut, cut the front finishing piece using the same steps. Measure the 1 ¼” piece between the two side pieces, mark this measurement with a pencil and then use a mitre saw to make the 45-degree cut. Use a small bead of wood glue along the top of the planter and attach using the brad nailer and 1” brad nails.

Step 9: Stain & Paint

The next step is to stain to the desired colour and finish. The example below shows an American oak colour stain along with a satin black paint. Finish the planter with two coats of exterior varnish. Refer to the images below.

Step 10: Finishing Details

Add landscaping fabric to the interior of the planter box and secure with staples. Add the soil to the planter box. Miracle-Gro Potting Mix is a great soil choice for this project, as it contains built-in slow-release fertilizer. This soil is formulated with ingredients like peat moss and perlite; it is designed to feed plants for up to six months while promoting drainage and aeration.

Next, add the lighting and the numbers.  This link shows the lighting and numbers used for this project. Attach the lighting and the numbers using the provided screws after pre-drilling with a power drill to prevent the screws from splitting the wood and ruining the project’s finish.

Plant the desired flowers, utilizing the spiller-filler-thriller rule of thumb.

Thriller: The tall, eye-catching centrepiece that adds height and dramatic flair.

Filler: Mounded or rounded plants placed around the thriller to add volume, substance, and fill in bare spots.

Spiller: Trailing plants placed along the edges that spill and cascade over the sides, softening the container’s appearance.

Step 11: Hang the Planter

The final step is to anchor the project to the exterior of the house using 3” screws. Use a level to ensure the project is completely level and straight. Pre-drill through the project using a power drill, then use three screws at the top interior of the planter, one on each side and one in the middle. Repeat the same steps by predrilling and screwing at the top right and top left sides. For extra support, include one screw in the bottom base.

And there you have it!

This made such a difference to the overall curb appeal and aesthetics of the front of the house. Be sure to check out the reel of this project here. If you make a project inspired by this one, be sure to tag @plantprojectcanda and @onceuponabungalow so that we can see your version of this project!

Until next time,
Happy gardening!
Shavonne.

#happycreating!

Materials You’ll Need

Main Structure:

• Cast iron bistro table and chairs. (Check your local marketplace for a set that you can repurpose)
• Metal spray paint/sandpaper, if you desire to paint the bistro set
• 1 square paving stone that covers the service of the table you are using (The size that fit my bistro set was 2 ft × 2 ft)
• Exterior paint in the desired colour of the chessboard
• Painter’s tape
• Exterior clear sealer
• Pencil
• Carpenter’s square or ruler
• Measuring tape
• Construction adhesive
• Optional – Exterior adhesive felt pads for pot bottoms

For the Chess Pieces

• Miracle-Gro® Cactus, Palm, and Succulent Potting Mix
• 32 small planters or containers
  • Matching terracotta pots work well
  • Cups, mini planters, or thrifted containers also work
  • 3D printed plant pots printed to size

Plants

Choose plants with different heights, textures, and personalities so each piece is easy to identify. Have fun selecting the perfect plants for the pieces, and make sure they mimic the vibe of their traditional chess counterpart. Introduce colour to add more whimsy and magic to your chess set!

The plants that were utilized in my chess set were:

• Pawns: Small Echeveria Succulents
  These succulents form tight rosette-shaped leaves. They thrive in bright light and well-draining soil. Allow the soil to completely dry between waterings to keep these looking beautiful.
• Rooks: Bunny Ear Cactus (Opuntia microdasys)
  These feature flat oval-shaped green pads that grow in pairs, resembling rabbit ears. These cacti require bright, direct sunlight to maintain their compact shape. Allow the soil to completely dry out before watering thoroughly.
• Knights: Echeveria ‘Purple Pearl’
  These plants have a stunning purple hue. They can become more intensely coloured when exposed to full sun, transitioning from grey-green. They need well-drained soil and require bright indirect light.
• Bishops: Gasteraloe
  These are a hybrid plant between Aloe and Gasteria. These feature thick, dark, green leaves with raised white spots or bumps. They thrive in bright light, and just like most succulents, need the soil to completely dry before watering thoroughly.
• Queen: Moon Cactus (Pink)
  These are a novelty plant that is actually two different cacti grafted together. The top colourful part is a Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, with the green stem being a different species used as rootstock. The pink that I used in the chess set creates a dramatic centrepiece for the chessboard.
• King: Moon Cactus (Red)
  These require bright, indirect sunlight. Water only once soil has completely dried out, and thrives in well-draining soil. Protect these plants from the temperature dropping below 10 degrees Celsius.

Step 1: Prepare the Bistro Table and choose an Area

Choose a flat outdoor space that gets plenty of sunlight. Place the cast-iron bistro set where it will stay most of the season. Since succulents and cacti generally prefer sun and good airflow, a patio or garden corner works well. I chose to use a cast-iron set to ensure the paving stone had a nice, sturdy surface to support the weight. You can use a different base for your chess set, or even have the paving stone sitting directly on the ground.

The bistro set was found on Facebook Marketplace and was in rough repair. I took sandpaper to remove any loose paint or metal. I then used matte black metal spray paint to give the set a refreshed look and a cohesive colour that popped against my wooden deck backdrop.

Step 2: Create the Chess Board

Your paving stone is 24 inches × 24 inches.

Because a chessboard has 8 rows and 8 columns:
24 ÷ 8 = 3-inch squares

This gives:

• Chess squares: 3″ × 3″
• No border

If you’d like a 1-inch border around the edge:

24 – 2 inches = 22 inches usable space

22 ÷ 8 = 2.75-inch squares

Using a tape measure to mark the measurements of where you wish the grid to be. Using a ruler or carpenter’s square, mark your grid in straight lines using a pencil. After you have your markings and are satisfied with the look of your chessboard, use painter’s tape to tape out the first direction of squares.

Allow the paint to dry completely, then follow the lines of the first rows of squares you have created and add fresh painter’s tape to make the other squares on the board.

Paint alternating squares:

□ ■ □ ■
■ □ ■ □

Once completely dry, remove all painter’s tape. Patio stones are usually not completely flat and tend to have a textured surface; as a result, you may need to touch up the paint. Using permanent acrylic paints, I mixed up a grey colour to match the original patio stone colour and touched up the white squares, creating a more refined straight line.

Step 3: Glue to the base & seal

Once this has dried completely, seal the surface with an outdoor sealer paint to protect it from the weather and outdoor elements. I used a clear spray paint sealer in a matte finish.

After this, use construction adhesive to glue the patio stone to the top of the cast-iron table. Apply the adhesive liberally to the top of the table and adjust the positioning until the patio stone is centred on top of the table.

Step 4: Differentiate the Two Teams

You want players to recognize pieces quickly. I chose to 3D print the pots to create the perfect size that would fit the 2 ¾” size squares. I did have to make a few prototypes until I was happy with the overall shape, size, and colour of the pot. I went with the traditional black and white colours for my plant pot chess pieces. Small terracotta plant pots would also work great if you do not have access to a 3D printer. *Tip: Your local library might have a 3D printer that you can use. Check your local library to see what’s available.

You can also paint small symbols on the pots:

• Crown for the king
• Queen symbol
• Cross for bishop
• Horse silhouette for a knight

Step 5: Plant the Chess Pieces

Fill each planter:

1. Add a layer of drainage material if needed.
2. Fill with Miracle-Gro® Cactus, Palm, and Succulent Potting Mix.
3. Plant your selected cactus or succulent.
4. Optional – Add decorative gravel on top. (The gravel gives a finished appearance and keeps soil from splashing during rain.)

Miracle-Gro® Cactus, Palm & Citrus Potting Mix features a fast-draining formula and is enriched with Miracle-Gro® Plant Food. This fast-draining formula is blended to help promote the successful growing of cacti, potted palms, citrus, and other succulents. This cactus potting mix is designed for indoor and outdoor container plants, including cacti, palm plants, citrus trees, and succulents.

Step 6: Arrange the Pieces

Set up the board as a standard chess layout.

Front row:

• 8 pawns

Back row:

• Rook
• Knight
• Bishop
• Queen
• King
• Bishop
• Knight
• Rook

Step 7: Care for Your Living Chess Set

• Water only when the soil is dry.
• Make sure the chess set is in a well-lit area so the plants can thrive.
• Rotate pots occasionally so plants grow evenly.
• Bring delicate plants indoors if the weather dips below freezing.
• Reapply outdoor sealer to the patio stone every season or two.

Finished Result

You’ll end up with:

✓ A functional outdoor chess board
✓ A living succulent and cactus display
✓ A decorative patio centrepiece
✓ A unique conversation starter that changes as the plants grow

The result feels part garden, part art piece, and part game table—something that looks just as good during a chess match as it does sitting quietly on the patio with coffee.

Thanks for reading! If you make your own living chess set, please tag @MiracleGroCanada, @PlantProjectCanada, and @OnceUponaBungalow. We would love to see your creations!

Until next time,
Happy gardening!
Shavonne.

#happycreating!

Step 1: Frame Lumber Cuts

*These measurements are based upon my grate size. Feel free to adjust accordingly. 

(Alternative tool options: hand saw, circular saw or jigsaw.) 

Using a miter saw, I cut my 4×4 and 2×4 pressure-treated lumber into the following sizes:

4×4 PT Legs

• (4) 35 3/8″

2×4 PT Support Apron

• (4) 67″
• (4) 21″

2×4 PT Cross Supports 

• (7) 18″

2×4 PT Grate Support 

• (2) 25 1/4″
• (2) 18”

Soil Bucket Supports

• Customize cuts to the size of the bin base on three sides (Back, Left, Right) 

PRESSURE TREAT NOTE:

Once all pressure treated lumber is cut, seal all cut ends with an PT wood preservative to help prevent moisture damage and rot.

Step 2: Build Workbench Frame

Fill your container about halfway with a high-quality indoor potting mix. Secure the top support apron. Note: I built this upside down on my work table to simplify the build.

Flush at both ends of one 67″ 2×4, secure two 4×4 legs, clamping in place first. 

Pre-drill to prevent wood splitting, then secure with 3″ screws.

Add the 21″ supports flush with the 67” 2×4 at the corner, and secure with screws. Repeat on both sides until you have a sturdy rectangular frame with four legs attached at each corner.

Step 3: Add the Middle Shelf

From the base of the top support apron, I measured and marked 19” on the 4×4 to guide my middle shelf height. 

Repeat the same framing process at this new height to create the middle shelf support.

Step 4: Install Support Braces

Secure five 18″ braces evenly (approx. 10” on center) across the inside of the bottom apron. Flip the table on its side if needed for easier access.

Tap each brace into place with a rubber mallet for a snug fit, pre-drill and screw through the outer apron into the support ends.

Step 5: Add Supports for the Grate Insert

Where you place your grate along your table top is completely personal. I favoured the left side to have a larger potting work surface on the right. 

Mark and measure 10” from the left outside edge and secure the first 18” cross support brace using 3” screws. Bud up both 25 1/4″ supports to the inside edge of your 18” cross brace, parallel to your apron, and secure from the inside using your 2.5” screws. Bud up the last 18” cross support and secure using a 3” screw. 

These measurements provide the grate a half inch ledge to rest upon and keeps that bulky 1.5” 2×4 edge from being visible underneath.

Step 7: Cut the Grate Opening

Mark any cedar boards that overlap with your grate and remove this material using a jigsaw. 

Since grate sizes vary, it’s best to dry-fit often and trim gradually until the insert sits neatly in place.

Step 8: Secure the Cedar Top

Using your Brad nailer, secure the cedar boards into the cross supports underneath. 

(Alternative options: 2” nails with hammer or wood screws)

Step 10: Add Soil Bucket Supports *OPTIONAL*

I found a heavy duty plastic bucket at my local hardware store in their storage section. 

To keep the bucket from sliding around on the shelf, I used scrap pressure-treated lumber to create small support brackets along the sides and back, securing them in place with brad nails.

This creates a snug fit that holds the bin in place while still allowing it to slide out easily from the front. Be sure to measure your own bucket and cut the supports to fit for a custom, secure hold.

Step 11: Restore the Grate

My grate was old and weathered after being left outside for years, so it needed a little TLC to clean away the rust, grime, and years of buildup.

To refresh it:

Dry brush away any flakey loose rust using a wire brush. 

There are many ways to remove rust depending on its level of rustiness. For light rust, submerge it in vinegar and water or lightly scrub a baking soda paste (baking soda and water) then let sit for 24 hours.

For more heavy duty applications like mine, use a rust remover gel or rust remover liquid, scrub with a wire brush and let sit for 30 minutes.  

Make sure to rinse with water and soap and let fully dry before applying anything on top.

Spray your grate with rust-inhibiting spray paint. This seals the metal, blocks moisture from getting in, and helps stop any rust from spreading. I chose a semi-gloss finish to create a tough surface that can handle all the dirt, water, and pot scraping this station is about to see. Just a heads up, oil-based paints take a bit longer to cure, so give it a few days before putting it to work!

Final Thoughts

This DIY Garden Potting Station has completely transformed the way I garden. Soil now drops straight through the grate and into my bucket for easy reuse, the cedar shelves keep all my pots and tools within reach, and every little gardening task suddenly feels so much more organized and inspiring!

Honestly, these are my favourite kinds of DIYs –  projects that are not only beautiful, but make your everyday life easier every single time you use them. Want to see more of these kinds of projects? Follow me on Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest.

Now bring on the garden magic and thriving plants this season!

#happycreating!

Step 1: Build Your Box

I built my garden box to be 2 ft x 4 ft and about 16.5” tall – plenty of space for root growth without eating up your whole yard.

Start by cutting your 1×6 cedar boards down to (6) 24” pieces and (6) 46¾” pieces. Then cut your 2×4 into (6) shorter posts to use as your vertical corner supports.

Build the long sides of the box first. Stack three 46 ¾” boards and add three vertical supports across to keep them secured. Place one vertical piece at each end and one in the middle. Then attach the 24” pieces to create a full planter box. Boom! You’ve got yourself a garden bed.

Step 2: Line It with a Pond Liner

In order for the soil to wick, the garden box needs to hold water. To do this, I’m securing a heavy-duty pond liner with a staple gun. Staple it along the inside walls of the bed, about halfway up the sides. You don’t need to line the whole height – it just needs to sit above your pvc pipe to create a reservoir in the bottom section of the bed.

Pro tip: Don’t skimp on this step. A cheap liner will tear, and then your plants are basically living in a leaky canoe!

Step 3: Set Up the Water Reservoir

Now comes the fun part – let’s create our reservoir! This is what makes your planter “self-watering.”

First, cut the 10-foot PVC pipe down to size. The inside of the planter box measured 40.5 inches. Cut the pvc pipe to this size but consider the end cap and 90 degree elbow in this measurement. In order for the plants to pull water from the reservoir, the pipe needs holes! If your pipe isn’t already perforated, you’ll need to drill ½-inch holes along its length. I made 4 holes approx. 3 inches apart, spaced out at every 6 inches. Cap one end and add a 90° elbow to the other.

Using the leftover PVC pipe, I cut a 13 inch vertical fill pipe that connects to the elbow, in order to easily pour water in from the top.

Optional: use PVC primer and PVC Pipe glue to secure the joints if you want a watertight seal.

Next, fit the pipe inside the garden bed! Add 6–8 bricks along the bottom of your bed to hold your pipe in place. This setup creates a reservoir where water can hang out, ready for your plants to sip on when they’re thirsty.

Step 4: Add Gravel & Fabric

Once your pipe system is in place, it’s time to fill in around it with washed gravel. Pour gravel until it fully covers the pipe and fills the bottom 4–5 inches of the bed. This holds the water and prevents soil from clogging the system.

Lay a layer of landscape fabric over the gravel and secure it in place with the staple gun. This is key! It keeps the soil from seeping into your water reservoir but still lets moisture pass through. Think of it like the bed’s breathable base layer.

Step 5: Fill with Soil

Now the fun part. Pour in your soil – I used Miracle-Gro Raised Bed Soil because it’s pre-mixed with compost and nutrients, and perfect for veggies! Add soil all the way to the top, gently pressing it down but not compacting it too much. Roots still need room to stretch.

Step : Fill Your Reservoir + Plant Away

Pop the cap off your vertical fill pipe and slowly add water until the reservoir is full. Then, get planting! The water will wick up through the soil as needed.

This means you’ll water way less often, and your plants will be less prone to stress from over – or under -watering. This was one of those projects that made me feel like a garden genius! It’s practical, sustainable, and just really satisfying to build. With one watering, your plants are set for days, even during the hottest stretches of summer.

If you’re looking to reduce water waste, take the guesswork out of watering, or just want an excuse to play with PVC pipe, a self-wicking bed is 100% worth trying.

Stay positive, stay creative, and KEEP ON DIY’N!

Happy Gardening!

#happycreating!

These planter boxes are ideal for many different foliage and flowers as they have an 8” depth of
soil, which is ample soil space for your plants to thrive.

The instructions below will build two planter boxes and the privacy wall portion. To form the
90-degree look hugging my cousin’s sectional, one finished planter box will be 18” W x 38” H x99” L and the other planter box will be 18” W x 38” H x 80” L. Her sectional measured 76” L x 76” W and 32” H. If the furniture you are building this for has different dimensions, you may want to alter the cuts and measurements to customize it to your needs, but you still can follow the steps below for the assembly process. I used pressure-treated pine to create my planters. This can be substituted for any ideal preferred type of wood. However, I recommend pressure-treated wood as it is worth the investment because the wood won’t need a stain for the first few years.

Building the frame of the first (larger) planter box.

Note: Follow these exact instructions to make the second (smaller) planter box. Instead of cutting
96” pieces, replace this measurement with 80.” The instructions below will take you through the
process of building the larger box.

Step One: Cutting the pieces

Using a table saw, cut six 2”x 4” pressure-treated pine in half so that you have 1” x 2” strips.
Next, cut the strips made into eight 33” pieces, twelve 12” pieces, and six 96” pieces using a
mitre saw.

The cut list for the first frame is as follows:

• Six at 96”
• Eight at 33”
• Twelve at 12”

Step Two: Building the frame of the two long sides of the planter box

Lay the materials on a flat surface. Two 96” pieces on the bottom and top, and four 33” inch
pieces on either side and two in the middle. Using a power drill, pre-drill holes at the bottom of
the 96” piece upwards into the 33” pieces. Use 3” screws to secure the to end pieces in place.
Space the two middle 33” pieces evenly. I chose to space mine 27 3⁄4” in from each side. Pre-drill holes at the bottom of the 8’-0” piece upwards into the 33” pieces and secure with 3” screws. Next, using 2” screws, toenail those screws from the 33” pieces into the 96” pieces making the frame extra secure. Repeat this process to end up with 2 frames. Refer to the images below.

Step Three: Adding the deck boards to the frame

Starting at the top, attach the 8’-0” deck boards to the frame by pre-drilling holes with a power
drill and then using 2” screws to fasten the boards to the frame. Use 2 screws at each frame
location (where the “studs” are located). Six full-width decking boards will fit on this frame. The
seventh decking board will have to be cut to size using a table saw. To measure what is needed to
cut off, place the board on the frame and trace using a pencil where it hits the top of the frame.
Cut that portion off with a table saw and use the same steps as above to secure it to the planter’s
frame. Repeat this process on both frames created in step two. Refer to the images below.

Step Four: Attaching the 12” pieces

On a flat surface lay one of the planter sides created in the previous step, flat, with the inside of
the frame facing upwards. Begin to attach the 12” pieces created in step one perpendicular to the
frame. Attach one 12” piece to each of the four corners, four 12” pieces on the top and bottom in
line with your frame, and four 12” pieces going across the center.

For the center 12” pieces, measure down 8” from the top of the planter and place those pieces there. These middle pieces will provide your planter with more support, but will also be the future frame for the bottom of the soil area. Using 3” screws toenail each 12” piece on two different sides into the frame making sure they are square and at a 90-degree angle. Refer to the images below.

Step Five: Attach the other side of the planter

Take the side of the planter that was just completed in step four and flip it over on to the other
side of the planter that does not have 12” pieces with the inside of this side facing up. Make sure
it is aligned as square as possible. Once the side with the 12” pieces already attached has been
placed face down on top of the side without 12” pieces, begin using 3” screws to toenail the 12”
pieces to the other side of your planter. Two screws per 12” piece. Refer to the images below.

Step Six: Creating the bottom of the soil area

Because this planter is so large, there isn’t a need for soil to go all the way to the bottom of the
planter. Before closing up the sides of the planter with more decking boards, install the bottom of
the soil area. Place two 96” decking boards in the planter and mark the sides of the wood where
these boards hit the inside frame. Measure how deep the notches will need to be cut. Remember,
this doesn’t need to be perfectly tight to the frame, as drainage is important for healthy plants, so
a little bit of imperfection is a good thing for this step.

Using either a jigsaw, multi-tool, or reciprocating saw, cut the marked notches out of the 8’-0” decking boards. Slide these into the planter from the sides and make sure they fit correctly around the frame of the interior. The two full-size decking board pieces will go on either side, and for the middle of this soil area, use the scrap wood that was cut off in step three. It should be a good fit here, allowing for movement between the boards and water drainage. Refer to the images below.

Note: Follow these exact instructions to make the second (smaller) planter box. Instead of 96”
pieces, replace this measurement with 80.”

Building the privacy wall/backdrop & assembling the structure together

If the design is the same “L” shape design we created, make two of these. The instructions are to
create one. If you are creating the same design as we did, proceed to make two of the following.

Step One: Making the cuts

Cut two 2×4’s at 67 5⁄8”. Cut two 1 1⁄2” x 1” pieces at 31 1⁄2”. These 31 1⁄2” pieces are cut from a
2×4 cut in half lengthwise on a table saw. The cut list for the privacy wall is as follows:

• Two 2×4’s at 67 5⁄8”
• Two 1 1⁄2” x 1” pieces cut at 31 1⁄2”
• Two 4×4’s left as is at 8’- 0” long. Ensure they are the same height.

Step Two: Assembly of the black panel frame

Lay two 4x4s flat on the ground. Place the 67 5⁄8” piece flat and at a 90-degree angle between the
two 4×4’s. The bottom of this piece of wood should be 42” above the bottom of the 4×4. Toenail
3” screws from the 67 5⁄8” pieces into the 4x4s from the top and bottom.

Next, place the 31 1⁄2” boards perpendicular up from the 2×4 that was just attached. Secure the 31 1⁄2” piece to the 4×4 by pre-drilling and then securing with 2” screws to the top and bottom. Next, add the other 67 5⁄8” piece to the top of these two boards, toenailing this piece to the 4×4 on the top and bottom of the piece. This is the frame created for the black acrylic panels.

Next attach the black privacy screen to the frame that was created using 1” screws. This will be the back of your privacy wall. Refer to the images below.

Step Three: Cutting and assembling the top piece of the “pergola” privacy wall

This is the step that will add the top part of the “pergola” style of this privacy wall. First, take
two 8’-0” long 2×6’s and add a 45-degree angle to their ends. Measure 1 1⁄2” down from the top
of the board and use a speed square to mark a perfect 45-degree angle with a pencil.

Using a mitre saw, cut the 45-degree angle to match the pencil marking. Repeat this process on both
2×6’s. Next, attach one of these to the 4×4. Attach this 2×6 3 1⁄2” down from the top of the 4×4. There should be 10 3⁄4” measurement on either side of the 2×6 from the edge to the start of the 4×4, making this piece centred on top.

Pre-drill holes first, and then attach with three 3” screws. Flip over the privacy wall, and repeat these steps on the opposite side of the privacy wall. Refer to the images below.

Step Four: Attaching the two planters together

At this point in the project, we transported the planters and privacy walls to my cousin’s
backyard to assemble the rest of it there.
…..
Place the larger garden box at the back of the project, and the smaller garden box perpendicular
to the face of the larger one. Attach by pre-drilling, then using 3” screws through the interior of
the smaller planter into the larger planter to secure these together. Insert the privacy wall structure into the planter boxes and push it to the far side of each planter to ensure that they do not overlap or intersect at the top. Anchor the 4×4’s in to the planter by pre-drilling, then using 5” screws.

Using a jigsaw, cut out a 4” x 4” spot for the 4×4 to go through the base of the soil area. After everything is attached and anchored properly, add one layer of landscaping fabric to the base of the planter, securing the fabric with staples. Refer to the images below.

Step Five: Add the top pergola pieces

Cut fourteen 2×4’s at 18” long. Then, measure 1” down from the top of the 18” 2×4” piece on
either side and mark this with a pencil. Using a speed square, mark a 45-degree angle on both sides. Using a mitre saw, cut this 45-degree angle. Place the seven pieces on each privacy wall, space them out evenly on top. They will be placed about 14 1⁄2” apart. Secure these to the top by toenailing these top pieces onto the structure up through the 2×6 into the 2×4 pieces. Refer to the images below.

Step Six: Add the Trim

To make the top trim: Using a table saw, cut the 5/4” deck boards at 3 1⁄2” width. To form the trim
around the top, measure the length and width of the planter, and then cut these at a 45-degree
angle. Pre-dill, then attach with 2” deck screws.

To make the side trim: Using a table saw, cut the 1”x6” deck boards in half using a 45-degree
angle lengthwise. Cut the boards into 36” pieces and attach these to the sides of the planters,
creating a mitered joint on the outer, and inner corners, concealing the raw edges of the planter
boxes. Attach by pre-drilling, then using 2” deck screws. Refer to the images below.

Step Seven: Add the soil and plants

Using Miracle-Gro Garden soil, fill the planters that have been lined with landscaping fabric.
This all-purpose planting mix helps grow plants twice as big and helps plants develop strong,
healthy roots. I purchased purple, red, and yellow petunias for the planters and make sure to give
them a good trim after planting them in the planters. This will help encourage new blooms to
grow. I wanted something that would continuously bloom in her yard all summer. It’s
recommended to fertilize with Miracle-Gro Water Soluble, All-Purpose plant food as well. Refer
to the images below.

Step Seven: Add the soil and plants

This project was so much fun to complete with my husband, Stuart. My cousin and her family
are so happy with the result, and we think it looks amazing in their yard. Check out the before
and after shots below. What a difference!

Be sure to check out the reel of this project here. If you make a project inspired by ours, be sure
to tag @PlantProjectCanada and @OnceUponaBungalow so that we can see your project!

Until next time,
Happy gardening!
Shavonne.

#happycreating!

Let’s jump in!

pond plants

Similar to creating a traditional planter pot feature with soil, layers of different shapes and sizes of plants are important considerations to make. Create a stunning pond by including a variety of plants. Consider using tall plants for the back or middle of the pond, filler plants around your taller plants, and floating plants for the front of the patio pond.

Pre-made and ready-to-go options will be located in the pond plant section at your local greenhouse. Pre-potted options are super easy and my personal favourite. These are already potted in the proper soil and rocks, and allow you to simply drop the plants into the pond as they are and enjoy.

The tags on the plants will specify how deep to place the plants in your pond. Just like a traditional planter, each plant will have different requirements to ensure it grows and thrives to the best of its ability. For example, water lilies are beautiful but require being in a deeper pond, so keep that in mind when purchasing your pond plants. Just like flowers in your garden, the tag on the plant will list the optimal locations, sunlight needs, and depths of planting. Below are some of the many options for your patio pond.

• Aquatic Water Bowl (A premade pre-potted mix you can find at your local greenhouse)
• Floating plant: Water lettuce
• Floating plant: Water hyacinth
• Water lily
• Blue Hawaii Colocasia
• Barred Horse Tail (Equisetum Japonica)
• Upright Water Clover (Marsilea Mutica)
• Large-leaved Weed Mace (Typha latifolia)
• Water Calla (Zantedeschia Aethiopica)
• Yellow Creeping Jenny (Lysmachia numm Aurea)
• Variegated Ginger (Hedychium coronarium)
• Aquaris Hibiscus (Hibiscus Acetosella)
• Water Pennywort (Hydrocotyle)
• Hardy Water Canna (Thalia Dealbata)
• Bronze Canna (Canna ‘Australis’)
• Pitcher Plant (Sarracenia ‘Velvet’)
• Primula (Primula Vialli)
• Siberian Iris (Iris Siberica)
• Variegated Sweet Flag (Acorus)
• Chameleon Plant (Houttuynia)
• Red Stemmed Parrot’s Feather (Myriophyllum Brasiliensis)

maintenance

The biggest thing to remember when caring for your patio pond is that it is not a pool, so the water is not going to stay perfectly clear and immaculately clean. This style of a patio pond is similar to a bird bath, which means you may have to dump it out, give it a quick rinse and refill it every so often. If you are having trouble with an excess of algae, try moving the location of the pond to a less sunny spot. If you are finding that the solar fountain isn’t circulating the water enough, add a plug-in pump to give more water movement.

most commonly asked questions

how do I avoid too much moisture in the soil below?

One of my biggest recommendations when making a pond with a planter pot around the bottom is to use Miracle-Gro® Moisture Control soil. This type of soil will ensure that the plants in the surrounding base pot won’t get over-saturated with water when the pond pot inevitably spills over into the plants in the surrounding base pot. Ensure there are drainage holes in the base pot as well to help with the excess water these plants will experience.

When choosing plants for the base pot, pick plants that don’t mind being exposed to more water. I’ve had success with creeping jenny, potato vines, and ivy. Try and stay away from plants that don’t like a lot of water, such as succulents, cacti, and other drought-resistant plants. Despite your best efforts, the water will spill over into this area, so take the time to protect the plants you have invested in.

how do you keep mosquitoes away?

This is an easy one! Mosquitos do not like moving water, they only like still water. As long as your pond has water circulating, mosquitoes shouldn’t be an issue.

how big of a pot do you use?

You can use as big or as small of a pot as you like. The larger the pot, however, the more plants you can enjoy in the pond. The larger pot in my video content is 30 inches wide by 17” high.

can you winterize the pond?

Just like other plants, you can winterize your pond plants. You’ll need adequate lighting, such as a very sunny window or a grow light to do so. You’ll also have to change out the water frequently to keep them healthy throughout the winter. Personally, I just purchase new pond plants every year as I don’t have the space to winter too many plants indoors; however, if you are able to winterize, this could be a big money saver in the long run. Keep in mind, I do live in Canada, so I am not able to keep my patio pond out all year.

can you add fish?

Fish require a lot more research to keep in a pond, it’s doable, but this is out of my scope of knowledge on the topic of patio ponds. They would likely need more circulation in the water than just a solar fountain. I recommend researching this topic in depth before adding pet fish to the mix!

is it safe for animals?

Wild animals such as birds and squirrels love ponds and bird baths! After speaking to a bee expert, I have learned that bees specifically like this type of water source as they prefer a more “natural taste” that a patio pond can offer. I can only speak from my experience when it comes to domesticated animals drinking from a patio pond. Our small pup, Mojito, has been fine after having the odd drink from the pond. We don’t encourage it, but he finds a way to sneak a drink here and there. If you are worried about your pet drinking from the pond, just take extra precautions to keep your pet away from your patio pond.

how many plants should I buy?

You don’t need as many plants as you think. Just like other plants, they grow and expand! Especially in terms of the floating pond plants. You likely will only need one plant of the floating variety in a small pond, and you’ll be surprised just how quickly these spread and grow. You can separate or propagate pond plants, just as you would any other plant.

I hope this helps get you started on your patio pond adventure. Please feel free to contact me with any other questions you may have. If you create a patio pond, please tag @PlantProjectCanada and/or @OnceUponaBungalow! We would love to see what you design!

#happycreating!