Materials & Tools

Lumber

• (8) Pressure-treated 2x4x8 
• (10) Pressure-treat 1x6x6 Fence Boards

Windows

• Salvaged windows (similar sizes will make construction much easier)

Fasteners

• 2½” exterior wood screws
• Brad nails 2.5 inch
• Door hinges 1.5 inch
• Vintage latch
• Decorative door knob
• (6) 1.5 inch L Brackets 

Paint & Finishing

• Pressure Treat Wood Preservative
• Exterior Stain or Paint (optional)
• Masking Liquid H2O (optional for painting on windows)
• Window Glaze (as needed)

Tools

• Drill
• Circular Saw (or plunge saw is optional) 
• Miter Saw 
• Jigsaw 

Gardening Supplies

• Miracle-Gro® Fruit & Veggie Shake ‘N Feed
• Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Shake ‘N Feed
• Miracle-Gro Potting Soil Mix for Indoor and Outdoor Container Plants
• Flowers, herbs, and vegetable plants

Step 1: Source Your Salvaged Windows

The windows are the heart of this project. Look for old wooden windows at salvage stores, online marketplaces, or local buy-and-sell groups.

Find windows that are relatively similar in size. They don’t have to match perfectly, but the closer they are, the easier the build will be.

Lay them all out on the ground first and experiment with different layouts until you find one that works. This step is a little like putting together a puzzle, but it’s worth taking your time before making any cuts.

I chose to make a cube shape with a slanting roof.

NOTE ABOUT WORKING WITH RECLAIMED WINDOWS:  

Before sanding, scraping, or stripping old paint, it’s always a good idea to do a lead paint test, especially on windows from homes built before the late 1970s. Lead test kits are inexpensive, easy to use, and can be purchased online or at most hardware stores.

If the test comes back positive, avoid dry sanding or scraping the paint, as this can release hazardous lead dust into the air. Instead, use a chemical paint stripper designed for lead-safe paint removal or wet scraping/wet sanding techniques to keep dust to a minimum. Be sure to wear appropriate personal protective equipment (gloves, eye protection, and a properly fitted respirator) and clean up thoroughly using wet wiping or a HEPA vacuum.

Step 2: Restoring Old Windows

Salvaged windows usually need a little “TLC.”

Scrape away any loose or peeling paint using a paint scraper. If the glazing around the glass has deteriorated, remove the damaged material and apply fresh window glaze to reseal the glass.

If one of your windows needs to be resized to match the sizing of others (which is what I had to do), use a saw to trim the wooden frame only – never cut through the glass.

NOTE ABOUT WORKING WITH PRESSURE-TREATED: Once all pressure-treated lumber is cut, seal all cut ends with a PT wood preservative to help prevent moisture damage and rot.

Step 3: Greenhouse Base

The base raises the greenhouse off the ground, helping protect it from excess moisture, creating valuable storage underneath, and placing it at an optimal height to save your back while gardening!

My Cut List : 

• (4) 2×4 PT lumber at 28 inches (legs)
• (4) 2×4 PT lumber at 30½ inches (table frame depth)
• (8) 2×4 PT lumber at 32 inches (table frame width & Support Joists)

*Before adding screws, make sure to pre-drill all screw holes to avoid wood splitting.

Start with your table frames. Build two identical rectangles, making sure to orient the (2) 32” lumber to be front facing with (2) 30 1/2” lumber budded up, square, on the inside. Fasten two screws from the front on each end. 

Connect the two frames using the (4) 28” legs set at each inside corner, spacing the top rectangle (base top) and the bottom rectangle (shelf) approximately 13½ inches apart. Secure with wood screws.

Step 4: Add the Base Shelving

Spaced equally apart, Install two support joists across the inside of the top and bottom frame. These supports should fit tightly between the frame, so don’t be afraid to tap them into place with a mallet before fastening.

Cut the PT 1×6 fence boards to fit the width of your base. Install them horizontally across both the top surface and the lower storage shelf. Leave a slight overhang on each end of the top boards to create a finished look. 

On the bottom shelf, use a jigsaw to notch the boards that meet the corner legs so they slip neatly around the posts, then secure everything with a brad nailer.

Step 5: Assemble The Greenhouse

Once the base is complete, it’s time to build the greenhouse itself!

Some reclaimed windows may need to be trimmed to help square the edges, or simply to make them smaller, while others will need to be framed using PT lumber to make it bigger. 

To determine my PT framing, I measured the width of the windows and cut down 2x4x8 PT lumber to the same width and size. This can be done using a tablesaw, circular saw or plunge saw. I like to add pressure-treated framing to help square the house and give the windows additional structure when securing together with wood screws. 

Using the same cut PT framing, I added a front crossbar at the top for additional support. Secure your windows into the desired framing shape with wood screws. 

*OPTIONAL: If you pick a similar shape greenhouse,  the roof will create triangular gaps near the gables. Feel free to leave this open (air flow is good!), or cut matching triangular pieces from pressure-treated lumber to close everything in. 

Install the door using two door hinges. At this point, your greenhouse should be fully standing on its own!

Step 6: Finish and Paint the Greenhouse

Sand any visible lumber markings from the pressure-treated wood and apply wood preservative over any areas that are needed.

If your pressure-treated lumber is dry enough to paint, you can apply a light exterior stain or paint to enhance the look of your greenhouse. 

PAINTING PRESSURE TREATED WOOD NOTE: If working with fresh pressure treated lumber, you may not be able to paint until it’s had time to thoroughly dry. If you paint PT while wet, the moisture from the wood will eventually surface, causing your paint to bubble and crack. 

PAINTING WINDOWS? Painting windows is tricky but here’s a cool DIY tip! Use a Masking Liquid first before painting. A masking liquid can be added right onto the glass and your frames. Once dry, it creates a protective barrier on the window glass allowing you to paint right onto the glass for easy painting. Once your paint is dry, simply score around the inner window pane and peel it away for perfectly clean glass with no paint left behind. 

For my door, I chose a bold red exterior paint to give the greenhouse a cheerful focal point, then finished it off with a vintage brass latch and a whimsical floral knob. Those little details are what really give this project its whimsical garden charm.

Step 7: Interior Shelves

To maximize growing space, I added shelving inside the greenhouse.

The shelving supports were built from 2×4 pressure-treated lumber that was cut into 1½” x 1½” pieces. These supports were secured into the inside corner framing of the greenhouse at the desired heights. 

The shelves, made from leftover fence boards, had one end cut at 45 degrees for easy access in the front, and were secured to the top of each cross support. 

I installed two shelves on the left side and a single shelf on the right, creating plenty of room for seedlings while still leaving space for taller plants in the middle.

Once the greenhouse was completed, I secured it to its base with 1.5-inch L-brackets.

Step 8: Fill It With Plants

Now for the best part! Fill your greenhouse with herbs, flowers, seedlings, or vegetables depending on the season.

I planted a mix of whimsical flowers, kitchen herbs, and vegetable plants to create a greenhouse that’s just as beautiful as it is functional.

I also keep Miracle-Gro® Fruit & Veggie Shake ‘N Feed and Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Shake ‘N Feed stocked on the lower shelf, so they’re always within reach whenever my plants need a nutrient boost throughout the growing season.

Final Thoughts

This project is proof that you don’t need a massive backyard to enjoy the benefits of a greenhouse.

With a handful of salvaged windows, some basic framing, and a little creativity, you can build a beautiful greenhouse that fits almost any outdoor space. 

Every collection of salvaged windows will be different, which means no two greenhouses will ever look exactly alike – and that’s what makes this project so special! Want to see more of these kinds of projects? Follow me on Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest.

Happy gardening, friends!

#happycreating!

Materials You’ll Need

• 1 Natural laminated pine (0.70-in x 15.25-in x 96-in) 
• 1 SPF Select Lumber – Pine (96” x 8” x 1”)
• 8” House Numbers 
• Solar Light
• Tape Measure
• Pencil
• Painters Tape
• T-Square, straight edge or ruler
• Various sizes of clamps
• Stain
• Paint
• Exterior wood varnish
• Wood Filler
• Wood Glue
• Brad Nails (1”)
• 3” Screws
• ⅜” Drill bit
• Landscaping Fabric
• Staples
• Work benches or a work surface
• Saftey glasses
• Hearing protection
• Mask

Tools

• Circular Saw
• Table Saw 
• Mitre Saw
• Brad Nailer or Pin Nailer
• Power Drill
• Level
• Staple Gun

Step 1: Make the First Cut

Start with the Natural laminated pine (0.70-in x 15.25-in x 96-in) and decide which side will be the face of the project, to which the house numbers will be attached. Measure 56” from the top and mark with a pencil. Using a T-Square or another straight edge, mark this measurement across. Measure 7” down from this marking, and use a straight edge to mark this as well. This marking will be the first cut.

Use clamps to hold the wood down to the work surface to prevent movement when making the cut. Be sure to wear safety glasses, ear protection, and a mask if you desire. Using a circular saw, make the cut following the second marking made. This will leave 40” of leftover material. Refer to the photos below.

Step 2: Cut the face of the Planter

Flip the remaining board to work on the factory-cut side; this will give the straightest edge to cut from. Measure 7” from the factory-cut side and, using a T-square or straight edge, mark this cut line with a pencil. Clamp the material to the work surface. Use the circular saw to make this cut. Repeat this step once more to create another 7” piece. Refer to the images below.

Step 3: Cut the Side Pieces

To construct the sides of the planter box, use one of the 7” pieces and mark 4 ½” in from the side with a pencil and a straightedge. This will create a 7” x 4 ½” piece. Use a mitre saw to make this cut. Using the leftover material from this cut, repeat the following steps to make another 7” x 4 ½” piece. This has created the two sides of the planter. Refer to the images below.

Step 4: Cut the Bottom an Add Drainage Holes

Now, make the bottom piece of the planter. This piece should measure 13 ½” x 4 ½”. Use the remaining piece of pine and measure 4 ½” up from the bottom of the piece. Mark this measurement using a T-Square and a pencil. Attach the wood to your work surface using clamps. Using the circular saw, cut along this line. Next, make drainage holes. Using a drill and a ⅜” drill bit, make 5 holes in the piece of wood evenly spaced. See attached reference images below.

Step 5: Construct the flower box

Now that all the base pieces have been cut, use wood glue to form a small bead along the edges of the side pieces. Use clamps to anchor the sides to the bottom of each side of the main board. Use a brad nailer and 1” brad nails to attach from the back side up into the side pieces. Once these are secure, remove the clamps. Add a small bead of glue around the sides and base of the planter.

Then place the bottom piece (the one with drainage holes) between the two side pieces, along the bottom of the main piece. Attach using the brad nailer through the side pieces into the bottom piece and through the back of the project into the bottom piece.

Next, apply another thin bead of wood glue to the front of the project and carefully align the face part of the planter box. Once this piece is aligned, attach with brad nails through the face of the planter into the sides and bottom of the planter box. Refer to the reference images below.

Step 6: Add the Finishing Trim around the Outside

The next step is to add the finishing trim. This will cover the brad nail holes and give the project a finished look. Using a table saw, cut the SPF Select Lumber – Pine (96” x 8” x 1”) into 1 ¼” strips lengthwise. This size will allow the trim to extrude from the sign, giving the project some depth.

Once the strips of pine have been cut on the table saw, hold the piece directly next to the project and mark the length of the right and left trim with a pencil. Be mindful that this will be cut at a 45-degree angle, and this measurement will be the inside edge of that 45-degree angle.

Cut the two long side pieces at a 45-degree angle, acknowledging that the 1 ¼” length is the correct orientation that will give you some overhang. Cut using a mitre saw.

Measure the bottom and top by holding up the 1 ¼” piece of wood to the bottom and top and marking the measurement with a pencil. Use a mitre saw to make this cut. Attach the right and left sides to the project using wood glue and a brad nailer. Refer to the images below.

Step 7: Add the Finishing Trim

Next, trim around the planter portion of the project. Using the 1 ¼” pine strips that were previously cut on the table saw, hold a piece of wood up to each side of the planter. Mark this measurement with a pencil, then cut along this mark at a 90-degree angle with a mitre saw. Create one piece for each side. Use a small bead of nail glue and attach with a brad nailer to each side of the planter. Refer to image one below.

Once these are attached, the next step is to create a frame around the planter’s face. These four pieces will be cut at a 45-degree angle. Use the same method as explained previously by holding up the 1 ¼” strips to the project along the front of the planter, marking this measurement with a pencil and then using the mitre saw to cut at a 45-degree angle. Repeat this for all four sides. Using a small bead of wood glue and a brad nailer, attach these pieces.

After these are attached, use the 1 ¼” strip of wood and hold it up to the side of the planter. This is the piece that will go in between the front and back and run along the sides. Cut these pieces at a 90-degree angle and use a small bead of wood glue and a brad nailer to attach them. Refer to the reference images below.

Step 8: Add the Top Finishing Trim

With the remaining 1 ¼” strips, measure the top of the planter on the left-hand side. Plan for a ¼” overhang on the top pieces. Mark this measurement with a pencil and then make a 45-degree cut on the mitre saw.

Once both sides are cut, cut the front finishing piece using the same steps. Measure the 1 ¼” piece between the two side pieces, mark this measurement with a pencil and then use a mitre saw to make the 45-degree cut. Use a small bead of wood glue along the top of the planter and attach using the brad nailer and 1” brad nails.

Step 9: Stain & Paint

The next step is to stain to the desired colour and finish. The example below shows an American oak colour stain along with a satin black paint. Finish the planter with two coats of exterior varnish. Refer to the images below.

Step 10: Finishing Details

Add landscaping fabric to the interior of the planter box and secure with staples. Add the soil to the planter box. Miracle-Gro Potting Mix is a great soil choice for this project, as it contains built-in slow-release fertilizer. This soil is formulated with ingredients like peat moss and perlite; it is designed to feed plants for up to six months while promoting drainage and aeration.

Next, add the lighting and the numbers.  This link shows the lighting and numbers used for this project. Attach the lighting and the numbers using the provided screws after pre-drilling with a power drill to prevent the screws from splitting the wood and ruining the project’s finish.

Plant the desired flowers, utilizing the spiller-filler-thriller rule of thumb.

Thriller: The tall, eye-catching centrepiece that adds height and dramatic flair.

Filler: Mounded or rounded plants placed around the thriller to add volume, substance, and fill in bare spots.

Spiller: Trailing plants placed along the edges that spill and cascade over the sides, softening the container’s appearance.

Step 11: Hang the Planter

The final step is to anchor the project to the exterior of the house using 3” screws. Use a level to ensure the project is completely level and straight. Pre-drill through the project using a power drill, then use three screws at the top interior of the planter, one on each side and one in the middle. Repeat the same steps by predrilling and screwing at the top right and top left sides. For extra support, include one screw in the bottom base.

And there you have it!

This made such a difference to the overall curb appeal and aesthetics of the front of the house. Be sure to check out the reel of this project here. If you make a project inspired by this one, be sure to tag @plantprojectcanda and @onceuponabungalow so that we can see your version of this project!

Until next time,
Happy gardening!
Shavonne.

#happycreating!

Materials You’ll Need

Main Structure:

• Cast iron bistro table and chairs. (Check your local marketplace for a set that you can repurpose)
• Metal spray paint/sandpaper, if you desire to paint the bistro set
• 1 square paving stone that covers the service of the table you are using (The size that fit my bistro set was 2 ft × 2 ft)
• Exterior paint in the desired colour of the chessboard
• Painter’s tape
• Exterior clear sealer
• Pencil
• Carpenter’s square or ruler
• Measuring tape
• Construction adhesive
• Optional – Exterior adhesive felt pads for pot bottoms

For the Chess Pieces

• Miracle-Gro® Cactus, Palm, and Succulent Potting Mix
• 32 small planters or containers
  • Matching terracotta pots work well
  • Cups, mini planters, or thrifted containers also work
  • 3D printed plant pots printed to size

Plants

Choose plants with different heights, textures, and personalities so each piece is easy to identify. Have fun selecting the perfect plants for the pieces, and make sure they mimic the vibe of their traditional chess counterpart. Introduce colour to add more whimsy and magic to your chess set!

The plants that were utilized in my chess set were:

• Pawns: Small Echeveria Succulents
  These succulents form tight rosette-shaped leaves. They thrive in bright light and well-draining soil. Allow the soil to completely dry between waterings to keep these looking beautiful.
• Rooks: Bunny Ear Cactus (Opuntia microdasys)
  These feature flat oval-shaped green pads that grow in pairs, resembling rabbit ears. These cacti require bright, direct sunlight to maintain their compact shape. Allow the soil to completely dry out before watering thoroughly.
• Knights: Echeveria ‘Purple Pearl’
  These plants have a stunning purple hue. They can become more intensely coloured when exposed to full sun, transitioning from grey-green. They need well-drained soil and require bright indirect light.
• Bishops: Gasteraloe
  These are a hybrid plant between Aloe and Gasteria. These feature thick, dark, green leaves with raised white spots or bumps. They thrive in bright light, and just like most succulents, need the soil to completely dry before watering thoroughly.
• Queen: Moon Cactus (Pink)
  These are a novelty plant that is actually two different cacti grafted together. The top colourful part is a Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, with the green stem being a different species used as rootstock. The pink that I used in the chess set creates a dramatic centrepiece for the chessboard.
• King: Moon Cactus (Red)
  These require bright, indirect sunlight. Water only once soil has completely dried out, and thrives in well-draining soil. Protect these plants from the temperature dropping below 10 degrees Celsius.

Step 1: Prepare the Bistro Table and choose an Area

Choose a flat outdoor space that gets plenty of sunlight. Place the cast-iron bistro set where it will stay most of the season. Since succulents and cacti generally prefer sun and good airflow, a patio or garden corner works well. I chose to use a cast-iron set to ensure the paving stone had a nice, sturdy surface to support the weight. You can use a different base for your chess set, or even have the paving stone sitting directly on the ground.

The bistro set was found on Facebook Marketplace and was in rough repair. I took sandpaper to remove any loose paint or metal. I then used matte black metal spray paint to give the set a refreshed look and a cohesive colour that popped against my wooden deck backdrop.

Step 2: Create the Chess Board

Your paving stone is 24 inches × 24 inches.

Because a chessboard has 8 rows and 8 columns:
24 ÷ 8 = 3-inch squares

This gives:

• Chess squares: 3″ × 3″
• No border

If you’d like a 1-inch border around the edge:

24 – 2 inches = 22 inches usable space

22 ÷ 8 = 2.75-inch squares

Using a tape measure to mark the measurements of where you wish the grid to be. Using a ruler or carpenter’s square, mark your grid in straight lines using a pencil. After you have your markings and are satisfied with the look of your chessboard, use painter’s tape to tape out the first direction of squares.

Allow the paint to dry completely, then follow the lines of the first rows of squares you have created and add fresh painter’s tape to make the other squares on the board.

Paint alternating squares:

□ ■ □ ■
■ □ ■ □

Once completely dry, remove all painter’s tape. Patio stones are usually not completely flat and tend to have a textured surface; as a result, you may need to touch up the paint. Using permanent acrylic paints, I mixed up a grey colour to match the original patio stone colour and touched up the white squares, creating a more refined straight line.

Step 3: Glue to the base & seal

Once this has dried completely, seal the surface with an outdoor sealer paint to protect it from the weather and outdoor elements. I used a clear spray paint sealer in a matte finish.

After this, use construction adhesive to glue the patio stone to the top of the cast-iron table. Apply the adhesive liberally to the top of the table and adjust the positioning until the patio stone is centred on top of the table.

Step 4: Differentiate the Two Teams

You want players to recognize pieces quickly. I chose to 3D print the pots to create the perfect size that would fit the 2 ¾” size squares. I did have to make a few prototypes until I was happy with the overall shape, size, and colour of the pot. I went with the traditional black and white colours for my plant pot chess pieces. Small terracotta plant pots would also work great if you do not have access to a 3D printer. *Tip: Your local library might have a 3D printer that you can use. Check your local library to see what’s available.

You can also paint small symbols on the pots:

• Crown for the king
• Queen symbol
• Cross for bishop
• Horse silhouette for a knight

Step 5: Plant the Chess Pieces

Fill each planter:

1. Add a layer of drainage material if needed.
2. Fill with Miracle-Gro® Cactus, Palm, and Succulent Potting Mix.
3. Plant your selected cactus or succulent.
4. Optional – Add decorative gravel on top. (The gravel gives a finished appearance and keeps soil from splashing during rain.)

Miracle-Gro® Cactus, Palm & Citrus Potting Mix features a fast-draining formula and is enriched with Miracle-Gro® Plant Food. This fast-draining formula is blended to help promote the successful growing of cacti, potted palms, citrus, and other succulents. This cactus potting mix is designed for indoor and outdoor container plants, including cacti, palm plants, citrus trees, and succulents.

Step 6: Arrange the Pieces

Set up the board as a standard chess layout.

Front row:

• 8 pawns

Back row:

• Rook
• Knight
• Bishop
• Queen
• King
• Bishop
• Knight
• Rook

Step 7: Care for Your Living Chess Set

• Water only when the soil is dry.
• Make sure the chess set is in a well-lit area so the plants can thrive.
• Rotate pots occasionally so plants grow evenly.
• Bring delicate plants indoors if the weather dips below freezing.
• Reapply outdoor sealer to the patio stone every season or two.

Finished Result

You’ll end up with:

✓ A functional outdoor chess board
✓ A living succulent and cactus display
✓ A decorative patio centrepiece
✓ A unique conversation starter that changes as the plants grow

The result feels part garden, part art piece, and part game table—something that looks just as good during a chess match as it does sitting quietly on the patio with coffee.

Thanks for reading! If you make your own living chess set, please tag @MiracleGroCanada, @PlantProjectCanada, and @OnceUponaBungalow. We would love to see your creations!

Until next time,
Happy gardening!
Shavonne.

#happycreating!

Step 1: Build Your Box

I built my garden box to be 2 ft x 4 ft and about 16.5” tall – plenty of space for root growth without eating up your whole yard.

Start by cutting your 1×6 cedar boards down to (6) 24” pieces and (6) 46¾” pieces. Then cut your 2×4 into (6) shorter posts to use as your vertical corner supports.

Build the long sides of the box first. Stack three 46 ¾” boards and add three vertical supports across to keep them secured. Place one vertical piece at each end and one in the middle. Then attach the 24” pieces to create a full planter box. Boom! You’ve got yourself a garden bed.

Step 2: Line It with a Pond Liner

In order for the soil to wick, the garden box needs to hold water. To do this, I’m securing a heavy-duty pond liner with a staple gun. Staple it along the inside walls of the bed, about halfway up the sides. You don’t need to line the whole height – it just needs to sit above your pvc pipe to create a reservoir in the bottom section of the bed.

Pro tip: Don’t skimp on this step. A cheap liner will tear, and then your plants are basically living in a leaky canoe!

Step 3: Set Up the Water Reservoir

Now comes the fun part – let’s create our reservoir! This is what makes your planter “self-watering.”

First, cut the 10-foot PVC pipe down to size. The inside of the planter box measured 40.5 inches. Cut the pvc pipe to this size but consider the end cap and 90 degree elbow in this measurement. In order for the plants to pull water from the reservoir, the pipe needs holes! If your pipe isn’t already perforated, you’ll need to drill ½-inch holes along its length. I made 4 holes approx. 3 inches apart, spaced out at every 6 inches. Cap one end and add a 90° elbow to the other.

Using the leftover PVC pipe, I cut a 13 inch vertical fill pipe that connects to the elbow, in order to easily pour water in from the top.

Optional: use PVC primer and PVC Pipe glue to secure the joints if you want a watertight seal.

Next, fit the pipe inside the garden bed! Add 6–8 bricks along the bottom of your bed to hold your pipe in place. This setup creates a reservoir where water can hang out, ready for your plants to sip on when they’re thirsty.

Step 4: Add Gravel & Fabric

Once your pipe system is in place, it’s time to fill in around it with washed gravel. Pour gravel until it fully covers the pipe and fills the bottom 4–5 inches of the bed. This holds the water and prevents soil from clogging the system.

Lay a layer of landscape fabric over the gravel and secure it in place with the staple gun. This is key! It keeps the soil from seeping into your water reservoir but still lets moisture pass through. Think of it like the bed’s breathable base layer.

Step 5: Fill with Soil

Now the fun part. Pour in your soil – I used Miracle-Gro Raised Bed Soil because it’s pre-mixed with compost and nutrients, and perfect for veggies! Add soil all the way to the top, gently pressing it down but not compacting it too much. Roots still need room to stretch.

Step : Fill Your Reservoir + Plant Away

Pop the cap off your vertical fill pipe and slowly add water until the reservoir is full. Then, get planting! The water will wick up through the soil as needed.

This means you’ll water way less often, and your plants will be less prone to stress from over – or under -watering. This was one of those projects that made me feel like a garden genius! It’s practical, sustainable, and just really satisfying to build. With one watering, your plants are set for days, even during the hottest stretches of summer.

If you’re looking to reduce water waste, take the guesswork out of watering, or just want an excuse to play with PVC pipe, a self-wicking bed is 100% worth trying.

Stay positive, stay creative, and KEEP ON DIY’N!

Happy Gardening!

#happycreating!

• Garden Planters with Blooming Archway (Article)
• Garden Planters Video
• Light-up Living Plant Wall (Article)
• Light-up Plant Wall Video– Outdoor Holiday Arrangements (Article)
• Outdoor Holiday Arrangement Video

My social channels are Once Upon a Bungalow, and you can find me on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok, and YouTube. We are always up to something in our little bungalow, so please come and join the fun. I am looking forward to seeing you there! Alright, Let’s get building…

step 1.

Start with a 24” x 48” sheet of good one-side plywood. Mark 8” upwards from the 48” side and use a pencil and a straight edge to draw a line. Continue this to make three lines, all measuring 8” wide. Using a table saw, make three cuts lengthwise along the wood. This will create three strips of 8” x 48” plywood. There will be a few inches extra, discard this, as it’s not needed for this project. Refer to the images below.

step 2.

These propagation stations are cut at a 60-degree angle. This makes each side of the triangle exactly 8 equal inches. Using a protractor (or tool of preference to find an angle), mark the triangle lines at a 60-degree angle. Only measure this angle for one triangle, then use the first triangle as a template for the rest of the propagation stations.

Cut the first triangle using a mitre saw at the exact angle marked on the wood. Flip the wood over, and use the triangle that was just cut to mark the next triangle. This way, there will be no waste and no adjustments to make on the angle of the mitre saw. Continue to flip the wood, mark the angle, cut, flip, mark, and cut! There will be 30, 8” x 8” x 8” triangles. Refer to the images below.

step 3.

Estimate the center of the triangle and place painter’s tape on the front and back of the propagation station. The use of painter’s tape is important for a nice clean cut on plywood. Find the center by placing the speed square in line with the bottom point of the triangle. The center point should be around 4” in the middle of the triangle, but it’s best to measure up from the bottom to find the center.

Using a speed square mark the center point of the triangle with a pencil. Once the center is marked, use a tape measure to mark a ¾” spot for the test tube to fit snuggly into. To make the ¾” spot, measure from the centerline ⅜ of an inch out each way.

Next, measure 5” from the top of the propagation station to find the bottom of the test tube spot on that center line and mark this as well. Place the top of the test tube perpendicular to the propagation station, and on top of the 5” marking to find the exact curve of the test tube, mark the curve with a pencil. Make a straight line by using the speed square overtop of the markings. See the example below of the ideal markings for the 20x150mm test tubes. Refer to the images below.

step 4.

Clamp the propagation station firmly to a work bench on each side. Using a ¾” spade bit in a power drill, make a hole at the bottom of the test tube spot and go completely through the wood. Next, equip the jigsaw with a 4” (10) Wood jigsaw blade. Set the jigsaw to the wood setting. (On a Greenworks Jig saw, this is setting number 3). This blade and setting should give the cleanest cut.

Start at the top of the propagation station and cut as straight as possible following the markings made on the painter’s tape. Cut down to meet the hole cut previously. This will result in a snug test tube resting place. Use a test tube after cutting to check if it fits in the hole snugly.  Trim as necessary to ensure the test tube fits. Remove the clamps. Refer to the images below.

step 5.

Remove the tape from the plywood very slowly and carefully. Pull the tape in the direction of the non-cut part of the wood toward the cut part of the wood to avoid the wood from lifting and chipping. Use an electric sander to buff the raw edges, face, sides, and back of the triangle. Next, use a drill with a small drill bit to make a hole on each edge of the triangle. These holes will be used to put string or hemp through to hang the propagation station. These holes will be roughly ¼” in from the edge. Refer to the images below.

step 6.

Stain the propagation stations to the colour desired. A Polyurethane sealant will seal the propagation station for extra waterproofing and durability, however, it’s not necessary. Once the stain is dry, add string or hemp. Use a yarn needle to guide the string through the holes created in the previous step and double knot the string to ensure it is secure and will not slip through the hole when hung.

If making a set of propagation stations, use the first completed propagation station as a guide to making sure the string length is the same and they all look cohesive. Next, cut a small piece of clear double-sided tape and place one small strip of it onto the test tube. Once the double-sided tape backing is removed, place the test tube in the niche created for it. Refer to the images below.

step 7.

Hang them up! Using clear command hooks or hanging nails, hang the propagation stations. To propagate a plant, such as a pothos, take a healthy section of the plant stem, typically 4-6 inches long, just below a node (where leaves are attached). Remove the leaves from the lower half of the cutting, and place the cutting in the propagation station with water in it.

you’re done!

Within a few weeks, there should be some root growth in the test tubes. Once there is substantial root growth, transplant with Miracle-Gro® Indoor Potting Mix. This lightweight mixture will help the roots spread out and further form. To give the cuttings the nutrients they need to thrive, try Miracle-Gro® Quick Start Fertilizer Planting and Transplant Starting Solution. This starting solution will improve root growth and give the plant the ability to grow big and strong.

There you have it, plant propagation stations! I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. For my propagation wall, I added a wooden cutout of the word “Grow.” This was ordered from a small Canadian business, Knotty Design Co.

Thank you so much, Plant Project Canada for having me once more! I look forward to seeing all of the Propagation stations you create! Be sure to tag me in your creations. Thank you for stopping by!

Xo Shavo

#happycreating!

Hello Everyone! My name is Shavonne and my social channels are called Once Upon a
Bungalow. I’m so happy to have been invited to Plant Project Canada’s webpage to share a
how-to on this very exciting project. This time I have instructions on how to build our Light-Up
Living Plant Wall. Check out our video for this project here! This project is for beginner to
intermediate woodworkers and is a great way to display your plants outdoors in the day or in the
evening. In case you missed it, click here for my instructions on making Planter Boxes with a
Blooming Trellis Archway, my first article with Plant Project Canada.

These instructions are based on our backyard living wall, feel free to adjust the
measurements to fit your space appropriately. Alright, Let’s get started on this unique and
whimsical plant wall…Here we go!

step 1.

Creating the sides of the base to the Plant Wall: Cut two 4x4s at 65 ¾” on the metre saw and toenail these with four 3 ½” screws into your deck. Use a level to ensure your 4x4s are straight. Note: If creating a living wall on the ground, dig your 4x4s 3’-0” into the soil and anchor it with gravel or concrete. Add 3’-0” to the 65 ¾” measurement above. See the images below.

step 2.

Add 1 ½” x 1 ½” to the 4x4s to create an inset space to attach the fence boards: Next, take a 2×4 and cut it in half on the table saw lengthways, creating two 1 ½ x 1 ½ pieces. Cut these 1 ½ x 1 ½ pieces at 51” on the metre saw. Attach these vertically flush with the back and top of your 4×4 pieces. Anchor these with 3 ½” deck screws, every 12” forming a base for the fence boards to be screwed to. Once these pieces are in place on both sides, find the measurement inside of the 4x4s. See the images below.

step 3.

Add your fence boards: Measure from inside the 4×4 space and cut your fence boards to fit. Use a level to ensure the top board is straight. Attach fence boards on the outer edges with two 1 ¾” screws with no spaces between each board. Our fence boards were cut at 57 ¼”. We used 9 fence boards going
horizontally down, as we had a window we didn’t want to cover. If desired, boards can extend to the ground. See the images below.

step 4.

Make a frame for the black acrylic privacy panels to be attached to: Use your 2x4s to create a frame for the black acrylic privacy panels to be attached to. Cut the top and bottom pieces first at 57 ¼”. Place these two pieces at the top and bottom (flush with the top fence board and flush with the last fence board attached on the bottom.) Attach with two 1 ¾” deck screws on the ends of the board, toenail the sides to secure the boards. Cut three 2×4 pieces at 44”. Place 2 of the 44” 2×4 pieces on each side, snug beside the 4x4s and attach with two 1 ¾ deck screws on each side, along with a toenail screw on the sides. Next, find the center, use a level to ensure the board is straight, and then attach the third 44” board by using two 1 ¾” deck screws on both ends and then toenail the sides again until secure. See the images below.

step 5.

Add the LED Strip lighting: Drill one small hole in the bottom inner corner of each frame for the cord of the strip lights to go through. Attach self-adhesive LED strip lights around the inner edges of the frame you just made. With a 65.5ft pack of LED lights, which is sold in two separate sections, I wrapped the
LED lighting around the inner edge of the frame three times. Run an extension cord behind the plant wall to plug in the strip lights, and tuck any cords up behind the project to hide them from sight. See the images below.

step 6.

Add blocking to the plant wall to support the hanging plant pots: The plant pots need something strong to hold on to, as they cannot hang off the black panels alone. We used six hanging wall pots and needed two rectangular pieces behind each pot to act as studs behind each pot. Cut the remaining 1 ½” 2×4 pieces into twelve 3” rectangles. Attach “stud pieces” with two 1 ¾” deck screws in places that align with the plant pots required in the placement desired. Get creative and design your own unique placement, or feel free to copy ours! See the images below.

step 7.

Attach the black acrylic privacy screens: Next up, the black panels! Using four 1 ¾” deck screws for each panel, attach the black panels to the frame at the top and bottom. See the images below.

step 8.

Attach the hooks to hold the plant pots: Take 12 metal flower pot clips and attach each clip with one 1 ¾” deck screw to the blocking behind the black panel. If the design pattern of the black acrylic panel doesn’t work out to lay directly in front of your hook, use a washer to shim out the space and attach your plant clip. If two hooks are required for each pot, use a level to ensure you are creating a straight line that your pot will hang upon. See the images below.

step 9.

Add the outer frame and top piece to finish off the look: Using a table saw cut 2 fence boards to 4” in width. Cut two pieces with a 45-degree angle using a metre saw at 58” and two pieces at 50 ½” to form a border around the black panels securing them in place and creating your trim work. Secure these to the plant wall with 1 ¾” deck screws. Cut one fence board at its original width at 64” in length to create the top and final piece of wood to the plant wall. Place on top and secure downwards with 1 ¾” deck screws. See the images below.

step 10.

Add the plants: For our plant wall, I went with all tropical plants that I could bring inside during the winter months. The plants I chose include different variations of pathos, prayer plants, snake plants, and other various tropical plants. To ensure these plants stay happy in the summer heat, and with my tendency to over-water, I chose to use Miracle-Gro® Moisture Control Potting Mix. This soil helps you protect your plants from over and under-watering! It absorbs 33% more water than your basic soil and releases it as the roots need it. It’s also nutrient-rich and contains a slow-release fertilizer within the soil to provide those essential nutrients to your plants over time. Moisture control Potting Mix also helps with airflow within the dirt, giving the roots the oxygen they need, which is essential for the plant’s development and vitality. See the images below.

step 11.

Add personal touches and details: I added a vinyl sticker featuring a quote about light from our favourite book series. I thought this quote suited the project as it lights up beautifully at night. 10 points to Gryffindor if you can recognize where this quote is from! I also added a metal flying key to add more whimsy and personalization to the project. For extra glowing magic, add fairy lights to each plant! See the
images below.

There you have it! That’s how you can build your very own plant wall. I hope you enjoyed our
tutorial. Please tag @PlantProjectCanada and @OnceUponaBungalow if you do create one too.
Find my family and me on all socials under the name “Once Upon a Bungalow.” Thank you to
Plant Project Canada for having us on the blog again, we loved creating this how-to! Check out
more images from this project below.

Happy Planting!

Xo Shavo

Follow Shavonne on Instagram and TikTok

#happycreating!

A transformation happened! Our backyard living space was completely changed. 

Initially, our goal was simple: build a deck to host family BBQs and birthday parties. But what we didn’t realize was how quickly we’d fall out of love with it. In just one year, the deck went from being our favourite lounge spot to a big, wooden pathway. This was especially tough for me since I had put my heart and soul into building that deck. 

I take a lot of pride in my property, so I needed to breathe some new life into my once-beloved deck. And then it hit me – we needed something natural to break up the straight lines and dead wood. I spend most of my time building gardens for people passing by my house, but I had neglected the space I built for my own family. So, one day, while topping up my porch planters with some Miracle-Gro® moisture control potting soil and Miracle-Gro® plant food, I had an idea. We needed planters to bring life and contrast to this barren wooden platform. Since our deck had no rails or border, we decided to create some planter benches for both functionality and beauty. 

Here’s my step-by-step guide on how to create your own planter benches. This project is designed to be modular, repeatable, and simple enough for even a beginner DIYer with minimal tools. We’ll walk through constructing two planters and one bench, but you can expand or reduce the project to fit your space. That’s the beauty of this design. 

The Full Build Walk-Through 

step 1.

Start by building the platform pieces. These are the most forgiving and a great introduction to the rest of the build. Turn the 2×4 components into a square by fastening the two 14.5” pieces inside the 17.5” pieces. Use 2 screws at each joint with pilot holes (implied for each joint moving forward). Ensure you’re fastening through the 17.5” piece into the 14.5” piece, creating a 90-degree angle. Attach the two deck board pieces to the top of the square and repeat. Set aside for later. [16x 2 ½“ screws & 16x 1 ½“ screws]

step 2.

Build 4 more squares. This will be the beginning of your planter. Fasten two 18” pieces and two 21” pieces to create a square, just like the platform square (longer cuts on the outside). Repeat 4 more times. [16x 2 ½“ screws per planter]

step 3.

Combine two squares from the previous step with four 16.5” upright pieces to create a box. Using the 4” framing screws, drill down through the 21” pieces into the 16.5” uprights, creating a 90-degree angle. Repeat until all 4 uprights are installed, creating your planter skeleton. Make 2 of these. [16x 4” framing screws per planter] 

step 4.

Measure 18” up from the bottom of the box for the bench height. This will be the top of your bench support. Fasten the bench support so the top of the 2×4 is at 18” from the ground. [4x 2 ½“ screws per planter]

step 5.

Create feet on the bottom side of the planter box to anchor it to the deck. Use 2×4’s of approximately 3” length and fasten them to the inside of the bottom square from the outside with 3 screws per foot. [12x 2 ½“ screws per planter] 

step 6.

Set your platform blocks. This makes the build customizable to plastic planter pots up to 18”. Measure 16.5” down from the top of the planter box. This ensures the 15” planters sit flush with the top of the box. Repeat on all 4 uprights. [8x 2 ½“ screws per planter]

step 7.

Now for the siding. This is when you feel like you’ve truly made something. I chose a miter joint, which might be more challenging but looks great. Set your top boards first, ensuring the inside of the miter joint is in line with the corner of your box. For beginners, make 4 more squares, fastening the deck boards to the box to form a square. Set your top boards first and move down, fastening all 16 deck boards. [64x 1 ½“ screws per planter] 

The hard part is done, and you’ve created 2 planters. Now, let’s move on to the bench. 

step 8.

Using two 17” pieces and six of the pieces cut to your desired length, ensure the boards are all showing the narrow side. Create a rectangle using the two 17” pieces and two of the length pieces, fastening through the 17” pieces. The remaining four length pieces should fit perfectly in this rectangle with equal spacing of a 2×4. [24x 2 ½“ screws]

step 9.

Mount the bench between your 2 planters using a level. Fasten the bench to the planters using the 4” framing screws from inside the planter through the bench support and into the 17” end pieces of the bench. Ensure the bench height matches the supports at 18”.

This project will add much-needed seating and plant life to your deck or patio. I hope you enjoyed the guide. Happy planting! 

Follow @brandonkoruna on Instagram and TikTok for more garden tips!  

#happycreating!

DIY planter boxes

Hello Everyone! My name is Shavonne and I’ve popped over to Plant Project Canada’s webpage
from Once Upon a Bungalow with instructions on how to build planter boxes with a stunning
blooming trellis archway. This is a great beginner woodworking project and the final result will
have you beaming with pride.

If you already have two planters that will work for this project and only want to build the
archway, scroll past the planter instructions to find the arch instructions. However, if you’re like
me and love a good DIY project, follow along with these instructions to build the planter boxes
too!

Here we go!

step 1.

Making the long sides of the planter box: Take 4 of the 35” fence boards and lay them out on a flat surface. Use clamps to press the four fence boards together for an even and taught placement. Place the 26” 2×2’s on either end of your 4 boards, with the top of the 2×2 flush with the top of your planter—the remaining length of the 2×2 will overhang. Use wood glue on the back of the legs. Use clamps to secure the legs in the right position before anchoring them with screws. Once the legs are in place, pre-drill holes and then use 1 ¾” deck screws to secure the legs. Find the center position using a tape measure, and place the 22” middle support using the same process of wood glue, clamps, pre-drilled holes, and screws. Repeat step one 4 times. See the images below.

step 2.

Attaching the short sides of the planter box: Lay one of the completed “long sides” on a flat surface to begin attaching the 24” fence boards to the 2×2 leg on the “long sides” assembled in step one. Attach these boards flush, use wood glue, pre-drill the holes, and then secure with 1 ¾” deck screws. Continue attaching until all four 24” pieces are attached. Once complete, attach the other completed “long side” to the other end of the 24” piece. Complete the box by adding the 4 remaining 24” pieces to the opposite end. Use a speed square to ensure all corners of the box are at a 90-degree angle. See the images below.

step 3.

Bottom supports: Measure 8 ½” over on the “long side” from each 2×2 leg. Attach the 22 ½” 2×2’s from the outside by using wood glue, pre-drilling, and then using 2” inch deck screws. The 22 ½” boards may have to be trimmed to fit in this space (That’s okay!). There will be another support between the legs of each of the “short sides” of the planter. The 20 ¼” 2×2’s should fit snuggly between the two legs. Use a pocket jig to pre-drill the holes to attach these, or toenail screw from the front side. See the images below.

step 4.

The planter’s bottom: Using the remaining 35” fence pieces, place one piece in the base of the planter box. Press these boards up against the sides until they are snug. Mark where the legs butt up against the fence piece. Mark these locations with a pencil on the fence piece. Measure the length that the leg protrudes into the box and measure this distance onto the fence piece. Use a Jig Saw to cut out these notches. There may be space between these boards, which is okay, as it will allow for drainage in the planter. See the images below.

*Note: Once I was at this stage of the build, I took the time to stain the planter box with an outdoor deck stain. I then painted the side trim pieces in black before attaching them to the planter boxes. * Tip: Having a friend with you helps speed up the process! See the images below.

step 5.

Side trim pieces: Attach the 26” side trim pieces using wood glue and 1 ¼” brand nails. Place the first trim piece on the “short side” flush with the edge. The piece should sit flush with the ground and flush with the top of your box. Then place another trim piece on the “long side” of the planter, glue, and then brad nail. Repeat this process on each corner of the garden box. Use wood filler to fill in all brad nail holes, sand, and then touch up paint. See the images below.

step 6.

Top trip pieces: Cut the 26” fence pieces with a 45-degree angle to frame the top of the garden boxes. Using wood glue and a brand nailer, attach each of the pieces, only after arranging all 4 pieces on the top to ensure an even trim for the top of the planter. Use wood filler to fill in all gaps and brad nail holes, sand, and then touch up the stain of the top trim. See the images below.

step 1.

Creating the supports: Cut 2×2’s at the desired height. 62” inches is the height of the supports shown in the image below. Stain or paint the supports to match the design cohesively. Attach supports to the 2×2 legs inside the planters using 1 ¾” deck screws. 3 screws in each support should be sufficient. See the images below.

step 2.

Adding the wire mesh: Measure the distance between the two supports. Using that measurement cut the wire mesh to size. Start below the trim of the planter box and attach the wire mesh to the supports using construction staples. Remember, the mesh doesn’t have to go all the way down into the box, it just has to begin at soil level.

step 3.

Light it up: Using solar lights, string the lights over the archway to create a stunning glowing effect in the early months of spring before the trellis fills in with your gorgeous climbing plants.

DIY planter boxes with arch trellis tips & tricks:

• Fill the planters with sticks, grass clippings, and leaves before adding the soil. This will naturally enrich the soil over time and it will take up space in each planter, costing less to fill.
• Use both Miracle-Gro Garden soil and potting soil. Using a 50:50 blend of these two soils will provide a lighter, more suitable mix for raised bed plants to thrive.
• Use Miracle-Gro Shake n’ feed to give your garden a boost and remember to fertilize every week as this makes all the difference.
  

I’m so honoured to be a guest on Plant Project Canada’s blog, and I look forward to seeing all of
the planters and trellises you create! Be sure to tag me in your creations. Thank you for stopping
by!

Xo Shavo

Follow Shavonne on Instagram and TikTok

#happycreating!

are you looking to spruce your outdoor space with a unique and creative garden? Look no further than creating your own vertical garden!

Vertical gardens are the perfect way for gardeners of all skill levels to create aesthetically pleasing and eco-friendly backyard decor that brings an extra level of life, colour, texture and personal expression into any outdoor living area. Plus, they can provide fresh herbs, fruits, and veggies right in your kitchen. How cool is that?

choosing the perfect plants

With so many different plants to choose from, how do you know which ones are right for you? First, think about how much sunlight your space gets. Some plants, like succulents and ferns, are great with less light, while others, like herbs and veggies, crave that sweet sunshine. Before you get too carried away, decide if your garden will be indoor or outdoor. Also, consider the size and weight of your plants. If they’re big and heavy, they might need some extra support. It’s also essential to consider the aesthetic you want to bring to your garden. Do you want that lush, leafy look, or are you more into the sleek and modern vibe? Keep all this in mind before you dive into the world of vertical gardening.

nurturing and nourishing your vertical garden

Once you’ve got your plants, it’s time to pick the perfect soil. Our top recommendation? Miracle-Gro® Moisture Control Potting Mix – it’s jam-packed with all the essential nutrients your plants need to thrive. Bonus points for this potting soil because it helps to regulate the moisture in the soil, and protects your plants from over and under watering. Regular watering and pruning are vital to keeping those pesky diseases at bay and promoting healthy growth.

Speaking of watering, maintaining a vertical garden can be a challenge, but investing in a drip irrigation system is a game-changer. It ensures your plants get an even dose of hydration without one area getting drenched. Smart, right? Oh, and let’s not forget about lighting. If your wall is a bit shady, no worries! You can always go for plants that don’t need as much sunlight. Or, if you’re feeling fancy, supplement with some cool artificial light.

revitalizing the environment and your health

Vertical gardens are fantastic for so many reasons! First, they’re like superheroes for the environment because they absorb carbon dioxide and other pollutants from the air while giving us clean oxygen in return. Plus, they’re like magical noise blockers, shielding you from those noisy neighbours and giving you peace and quiet. But that’s not all! You’ll have your own organic produce parade with a vertical garden. Think about it – fresh yummy fruits and veggies, growing all within reach! And here’s the cherry on top: gardening is the ultimate stress reliever. So, when you add a vertical garden to your outdoor space, you’re not just taking care of your health and the planet but also putting a smile on your face. It’s a win-win!

Whether you have a tiny apartment or a spacious house, a vertical garden is a fantastic chance to bring joy to your outdoor space! Plus, you don’t need to break the bank. Many folks have been pleasantly surprised to discover that this seemingly intimidating project is totally doable! So, if you’re looking for some cool ideas to live a greener life, why not try a vertical garden? Trust me, it’s worth it!

#easypeasy