Your Alocasia needs a well-draining potting mix. The Miracle-Gro® Indoor Potting Mix contains coconut coir and perlite to hold onto and release moisture as your plant needs it. If you find that your plant is wanting a little extra, you can add in some Miracle-Gro® Cactus, Palm & Succulent Potting Mix. Adding this succulent mix helps keep your soil light and airy.

Like most indoor tropical plants, the best time to repot is in the spring or summer, when your plant is strong. Your alocasia will likely want to be repotted every 18 – 24 months. When you’re selecting its new pot, choose one that is about 2 – 4” bigger than its current one.

To propagate your alocasia, use the division method. Remove the plant from its pot and separate a small clump of roots from the main rootball. Replant the small clump into a new pot with fresh soil. Make sure it’s buried at the same depth as the original plant.

Your alocasia may be more prone to spidermites than your other indoor plants. To help prevent those nasty mites from appearing, make sure your plant doesn’t dry out too much over the winter. If you see spidermites on your alocasia, you can use Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap Ready-To-Use. Spray this insecticidal soap on your plant to eliminate those pesky mites.

Not enough humidity or dry soil. Your alocasia could probably use a good watering. If you’re already on a watering schedule and you’re still noticing dying leaves, consider increasing the humidity in the room.

Overwatering. Allow the soil to dry out a bit before watering your plant again. For future waterings, make sure the soil is about 25-50% dry before watering.

Probably a sunburn. If your alocasia is too close to bright, direct light then it’s time to move it away. Your alocasia wants to be in bright but indirect light, so find a spot that isn’t right in front of a window. If your lighting is okay, then it could be fertilizer burn. To fix this, drain any accumulated fertilizer from the potting mix, or repot with fresh soil.

Fungal infection. Poor light and warm, humid conditions can be responsible for fungus. To prevent this make sure the leaves stay as dry as possible. Instead of overhead watering, opt for bottom watering or watering straws instead. Be sure to remove any dead, decaying or diseased plant matter from your alocasia’s pot.

Whether poinsettia is growing indoors or outdoors, they prefer a loose, well-draining potting mix. Consider using Miracle-Gro® Moisture Control® Potting Mix. You can also add Perlite and Peat Moss to your soil for some added nutrients.

As your poinsettia grows, so does its roots. To avoid your poinsettia getting root-bound, repot it in the spring. It’s generally recommended that by mid-May, your poinsettia will be ready to repot. Choose a pot that is about 2 inches wider and deeper than its current pot. And of course, refresh the soil when you repot.

The most common way to propagate poinsettia is by taking a cutting. Propagating from cuttings ensures a clone of the parent plant. No surprises! To start, wait until the spring to take your cutting. Using sharp scissors or pruners, cut a 3 – 4 inch stem from the parent plant. Then cut off a few of the lower leaves to promote root growth from the cut edge. Be sure to leave at least 3 leaves at the top of the cutting. Transplant your cutting to a small container with well-draining potting mix such as using Miracle-Gro® Seed Starting Potting Mix. Keep your cutting in a bright, humid area, and mist the leaves regularly to stimulate growth.

Whiteflies are the most common pests for poinsettias. Do regular checks under the leaves of your poinsettia and keep an eye out for clumps of greenish eggs. Use a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide Ready-to-Use to easily and quickly get rid of white flies.

Bacterial rot. This causes the base or stem of the cuttings to become mushy and eventually collapse. You may also notice a smell surrounding your plant, which is also caused by this bacterial infection. You may be able to mitigate this by proper watering and misting practices. It’s best to cut off misting and watering for a while once you notice the stems are a little soft.

Temperature fluctuations. Sudden temperature fluctuations will shock these tropical plants. To keep your poinsettia happy, make sure it’s in a bright space that can also receive a few hours of shade or darkness. Be sure to keep your plant away from radiators, fireplaces and space heaters too.

Could be spider mites. These little pests feed off the plant’s sap, causing the leaves to turn pale and sometimes develop little red spots. If you catch spider mites early enough, you may be able to salvage your plant. Use a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide Ready-to-Use to gently take care of this problem. A recovering poinsettia will perk up and brighten up within a week or two.

Over- or underwatering. Both over and under-watering your poinsettia will cause its leaves to droop or look wilted. If you’re over-watering your plant, be sure to let its soil dry out a bit. Discard any excess water at the bottom of its pot to prevent it from sitting water and developing root rot. If you’re underwatering, consider boosting your watering routine with Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food for the next two watering cycles. You can also start misting the leaves of your poinsettia to increase its water in-take. But don’t overdo it, let the soil dry out a bit between watering.

Amaryllis needs to be planted in a light, well draining potting soil. Consider using Miracle-Gro® Indoor Potting Mix. The combination of coconut coir and perlite help control moisture and release water when your plant needs it. If you’re growing a single amaryllis bulb, you can plant it in a 6-inch pot. If you’re growing multiple bulbs (about 2 –3) use a bigger pot, closer to 10 – 12inches. As always, make sure your pot has a drain hole and be sure to leave the top 1/3 of your amaryllis bulb sticking out of the soil.

Your amaryllis won’t need to be repotted very often. In most cases, you will only need to repot your amaryllis after 3 – 4 years. It’s best to repot once your amaryllis has gone through a dormant stage, typically this means repotting in the spring.

There are 3 ways to propagate amaryllis:

1. Through Seeds. Look for seed pods about four weeks after your amaryllis begins to flower. When the seeds are ready, they’ll split open a bit and turn yellow. Then you can gently shake out the little black seeds.
2. Separating bulbs/offsets. Look for firm bulblet that are about a third of the size of the “mother” bulb. Trim back any extra foliage to 2 inches above the bulb. Gently remove the bulblets and replant as soon as possible. You can remove the bulblets with either a small knife or just your fingers.
3. Choose a bulb at least 6 inches in diameter. Cut into four pieces, vertically, making sure each section has at least two scales. Plant with the basal plate (bottom) of the bulb pointing down, covering only a third of the bulb with soil.

Keep an eye out for common pests like mealybugs and fungus gnats. If you spot these pesky bugs, you can use a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap to get rid of them without damaging your plant.

There could be a few reasons. The main reason could be that your amaryllis isn’t getting enough light. Once you’ve moved your plant to a bright window that gets light for about 4 hours a day, you should see blooms. Still nothing? Try adding a little plant food to bump up the nutrients. Consider using a tropical plant food like Miracle-Gro® Tropical Plant Food.

Over or underwatering. The issue could also be that your amaryllis isn’t getting enough light. If you know that your watering schedule is okay, then try moving your plant to a more direct light source.

Look for colour and texture. If your bulb has a uniform colour and firm texture, it’s a healthy bulb. If you spot signs of a pest infestation, mold or any damage to the actual bulb, these are red flags that indicate your bulb will likely rot. Seeing shriveled or brown skin on the outside? That’s totally normal.

Plant garlic cloves 4 to 8 inches apart, and about 2 inches deep. Be sure you plant the cloves with the root side pointing down. Your garlic needs well-draining soil, such as Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Garden Soil. Add a little compost to bump up the nutrients of soil.

Garlic can be planted next to other veggies such as beets, celery, lettuce, potatoes, strawberries or even tomatoes. It’s best to avoid planting near peas or beans.

Once your garlic has sprouted some leaves, and a few of the lower leaves have turned brown, your garlic is ready to pick. The only way to tell is to pick a few bulbs as a test. If the cloves have filled the skin, they’re ready to harvest. Be sure not to let them wait too long once you notice the lower leaves browning, otherwise the protective layers around the cloves will be too thin. This means the garlic won’t store well.

White rot is a common disease that can wipe out an entire garlic crop. This is identified by little poppy seed sized bumps on the stem, and white fuzzy growth on the bottom of the bulb. If left untreated it can remain in the soil for many years. Keep an eye out for symptoms from mid-summer to autumn. If you’re noticing this has been a problem where you’re planting, apply a fungicide. For best results, apply the fungicide in a 6 inch band over the planting trench. This should happen immediately before planting.

Could be time to harvest. When garlic is ready to be harvested, a few of the bottom leaves will turn brown and droop. The easiest way to tell if your garlic is ready to harvest is to count back. Garlic needs about 240 days to mature.

Nutrient problems. Your soil could be lacking in some key nutrients like nitrogen, potassium, calcium, and magnesium. Consider using a plant food like, Miracle-Gro® Shake ‘N Feed® Tomato, Fruits & Vegetables Plant Food.

Extreme weather conditions. Sometimes after a particularly harsh winter, garlic crops can come out a bit crumpled or very small. One way to prevent this is to water and mulch immediately after planting. Be sure not to add too much mulch though! Too much mulch applied too late in the season will insulate the ground and delay it from going dormant. This can cause root rot once the real cold weather sets in.

Kale works well when planted by artichokes, beets, celery, cucumber, lettuce, onion, peas, potatoes. Avoid other brassicas being planted alongside kale. These include broccoli, kohlrabi, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, and Swiss chard.

When your kale’s leaves are about the size of your hand, it’s ready to harvest. Be sure not to pick more than a third of your plant’s leaves at a time.

What are these little white flies? They are literally Whiteflies. They drink sap and excrete a sticky ‘honeydew’ which also encourages mould. Use sticky traps or Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap to keep your plants healthy.

Cabbageworms. You can use companion plants to help naturally combat these pests. Quickly hand pick your kale, and don’t forget to use row covers to help keep your kale safe.

Probably black rot. This is a fungus that leave yellow v-shapes on your kale’s leaf edges. To prevent this, make sure to rotate your crops and remove debris from your garden. Don’t forget to make sure your garden has good drainage.

Could be aphids. To prevent aphids from infesting your kale plants be sure not to water the foliage. If aphids persist, you can use an insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide Ready-to-Use.

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Consider elevating your elephant ear slightly by adding a layer of rocks and pebbles between the planter and its saucer. This helps increase the humidity and prevents root rot.  Use a well-draining soil for your elephant ear. Consider using Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm & Succulent Potting Mix or Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix for a happy plant.

The best time to repot your elephant ear is during the spring months. When repotting your elephant ear, make sure to use a well-draining soil. Consider using a soil like Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm & Succulent Potting Mix or Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix to help refresh the soil.

While you can’t propagate an elephant ear with a cutting, you can divide tubers of a healthy adult plant. The tubers have a texture similar to that of a potato. You can easily cut through it with a sharp knife. Plant the divided tuber immediately into your potting soil and keep it moderately wet.

Common pests for elephant ears are aphids, spidermites and mealybugs. Use a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide Ready-to-Use and make sure the leaves of your plant are treated as well.

Too much sunlight or overwatering. You can cut the dying leaves close to the base of the stem. This should prevent more leaves from yellowing. Then adjust your watering schedule or move it away from direct sunlight.

Usually due to overwatering. The leaves of an elephant ear are long and heart-shaped, which naturally draws water to the tip of the leaf. If there aren’t other signs of overwatering, like soft stems or yellow leaves, you can likely hold off on watering for a few days.

It’s a sunburn. Your plant is too close to bright, direct light. Elephant ears tend to thrive in bright, indirect light. Scorched leaves won’t kill your plant, it just doesn’t look pretty.

Fungal leaf blight. If this fungus isn’t caught early, it will cause the whole leaf to collapse and travel to the rest of the plant. To prevent this, make sure you’re using high-quality, well-draining soil.

Lilies love to have their roots in cool soil, and their heads in the sun. The best soil option to keep your lilies happy is a rich, moist soil. that is also well-draining. Consider adding in just a little bit of organic compost.

You can find a wide variety of companion plants from annuals, bulbs to
other perennials. Consider using annuals such as dill, geraniums, pansies, or new guinea impatiens. Dahlias, daffodils, or irises make great companions when planting other bulbs. Perennials such as peonies, daisies and lavender are excellent companions for lilies.

Lilies only bloom once per season. You can remove, or deadhead, faded flowers to keep your plant from wasting energy making new seeds.

The most common pest issues for lilies are infestations of scarlet lily beetles. These little guys like to hang out on the underside of leaves. The easiest way to get rid of these little pests is to catch them manually by holding a bottle of warm water under the leaves you’re inspecting. The bugs will be startled and drop off into the water waiting below.

Lily disease. This is a fungal infection that creates oval-shaped dark spots on your lily’s leaves. Make sure you use clean tools before you get started. Then clear out the infected soil and debris and get rid of the infected plant. Be sure to not plant lilies in an infected spot again.

Could be overwatering, sunburn, or underwatering. If the tip of the leaf is brown and crunchy, this means the soil is likely too dry.

Likely a fungus. Many fungi (Rhizoctonia, Phytophthora, Pythium, Fusarium, and Cylindrocarpon) attack the bulb and cause the roots to rot. This will also cause the plant to wilt, and eventually die. Be sure to remove the infected plants and check all bulbs carefully before planting.

Could be the result of small bulbs or over-crowding in the soil. Planting your lily bulbs too shallow could also lead to your lily not producing big blooms. If you cut away the leaves after a lily has flowered, it may also decrease the likelihood of flowering the following year. Keep in mind, some lilies won’t flower in their first year of planting due to transplant shock.