Letting the plant’s soil dry out between waterings puts a little stress on it to survive, which in turn encourages it to put out new flowers to try to ensure its survival. Rather than relying on a watering schedule to tell you when to give your hoyas a drink, touch the plant and soil. If you squeeze a leaf between your fingers and it’s squishy, time to water; if it’s firm, wait a couple days and check again. If you stick a finger in the soil and it feels dry to the touch, it’s time to water; if it feels damp, wait a few days as well.
Whether you’re new to the world of hoyas or a hardcore hoya collector, getting these gorgeous plants to bloom can be such a rewarding experience.
Hoya blooms only last a few weeks, which makes it feel extra special when it does happen. If you’re having a hard time making those cute little star-shaped flowers appear, these tips will help set you up for success.
make sure your hoya gets lots of light – like, LOTS of light.
Not only are hoyas hardy plants, but hoyas are also tropicals, so they thrive in bright light. My hoyas that flower most frequently get a few hours of direct sunlight each day, and bright indirect light the rest of the day. In my experience it’s hard to give these plants too much light – if exposed to 6+ hours of direct light a day, they may even start to show the pretty patterns typical of a sun-stressed plant.
feed me, see more…flowers!
If you want a plant to put out new growth or blooms, it needs the nutrients to do so. Although you can of course use a tropical plant food the next time you water your hoya, I’ve had great luck fertilizing mine with the Miracle-Gro Ready-to-Use Orchid Plant Food Mist. Like orchids, hoyas are epiphytes. In the wild, epiphytic plants grow not in soil, but attached to other plants, and absorb water and nutrients from the air. Spraying plant food on in the form of a mist allows a hoya’s leaves to absorb those nutrients the same way they would in the wild.
#easypeasy
This plant’s been in the same soil since I got it years ago and is due for a repot. Although it hasn’t outgrown its pot, the soil is extremely dry and no longer retains the moisture the plant needs. So here’s how to repot a plant while changing out most of its soil!
here’s what you need to get started:
- your plant
- a nursery pot
- a quality potting mix (this ficus elastica is a tropical plant, so I’m using Miracle-Gro Tropical Potting Mix)
- a potting mat or tarp (optional)
- a shovel or soil scoop (optional)
step one.
The first step is to gently coax the plant out of its pot. I did this by laying to pot on its side and gently squeezing and rolling the soft plastic of the nursery pot. Then pull the plant out of the pot.
step two.
Using your fingers, begin to gently remove some of the old soil from the root ball.
Plants don’t particularly like having their roots disturbed (think about it: how often does someone come along and dig a plant up to tear apart its roots in the wild?) and being too rough can cause damage which can lead to root rot. You do want to remove some soil, though, so the roots can access the nutrients in the fresh new soil.
TLDR, gently remove as much soil as possible while doing as little damage to the roots as possible.
step three.
Grab the pot you’re planning to pot the plant in. The rule of thumb is to choose a pot that’s ~2 inches bigger than the root ball. (I decided to plant mine back in the original pot, as it was still an appropriate size, it was just the soil that needed changing.) Fill the bottom of the pot with a couple inches of soil. Then place your plant in and fill the sides and top with soil!
step four.
I like to wait a week or so after repotting before watering the plant. That way, hopefully, any root damage should form a callus and avoid root rot with the additional moisture.
#easypeasy
mint
aka mentha
Mint is an easy, fast-growing herb that is used in drink and food recipes. It is a perennial herb that grows little white and purple flowers. There are over 30 different variations of mint, but the most commonly grown is spearmint and peppermint.
variations
Apple/Pineapple Mint, Corsican Mint, Pennyroyal, Peppermint, Citrus Mint, Spearmint
light
full sun
If the soil is nice and moist, full sun is okay. Mint can also thrive in partial shade.
water + feeding
thirsty
Should be watered at least twice a week.
toxic
no
This plant is safe for animals to nibble on.
size
small to medium
Mint can grow to between 1 – 2 feet tall.
pro tip
An effective remedy for headaches
If you are prone to tension headaches, you can make a compress out of mint leaves for your forehead or rub peppermint oil on your temples.
fun fact
Ancient origins
Mint was used in ancient Greece, Rome, and Egypt
beyond the basics
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soil + potting
Mint does not need to be fussed over which makes it perfect for first-time gardeners. When planting your mint consider using a well-draining soil that can help with moisture control, like Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Garden Soil. This soil helps to prevent from over- and under-watering your mint plant.
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companion planting:
Luckily, mint is an easy herb to find companion plants for. You can take your pick of popular home garden veggies such as: carrots, cabbage, kale, tomatoes, bell peppers, beans and even zucchini.
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harvesting
Frequent harvesting is important to keeping your mint flourishing. Young leaves have more flavour than older leaves. With this in mind, you can start harvesting your mint as soon as it comes up this spring.
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pest control
If you see your mint plant drooping, there might be a pest problem. Common pests you might see with mint plants are aphids, mealy bugs, spider mites, or flea beetles. If you are seeing curling leaves or holes in your leaves, these are tell-tale signs of pests. Don’t worry, there is an easy fix. You can use a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap Ready-To-Use to safely and quickly get rid of those little nuisances.
troubleshooting
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What do I do with my mint once I harvest it?
You’ve got options.
Once you pick a few sprigs from your mint plant, you can keep them in water for a few days. It is best to use your mint while it is fresh, about 3-5 days. If you are looking to dry your mint leaves, cut them right before flowering and let the leave air dry. Once dry, store the dried mint in an air-tight container.
Or you can just pick the leaves from your mint plant as you need them.
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Why is my mint looking leggy?
More sunlight. Most of the time, if your mint plant is looking thin and leggy it is lacking sunlight or water or nutrients. The best way to prevent mint from getting leggy is to make sure it is growing in a warm spot that gets lots of light. Keep it in a big pot with well-draining and nutrient rich soil.
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Why is my mint turning crispy and brown?
Under-watering. This is easy to fix. Try watering your mint on a schedule, aiming for once or twice a week. Be sure to water under the leaves and close to the soil so you don’t damage the leaves.
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How do I know if my mint is healthy?
Healthy, ready to use mint is a deep, rich green. If your mint is yellow and falling, it is likely due to its growing conditions. Keep your mint plant in full or partial sun, with a well-draining potting mix like Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Garden Soil. Make sure you water your mint whenever the top of the soil is dry, usually about twice a week.
There’s something magical about terrariums. They take up so little space, and yet, house an entire ecosystem within them. If you’re reading this article, you’ve likely seen countless Pinterest boards of beautiful, tiny terrarium creations made to resemble small towns, wild forests, or other stunning locales.
But while terrarium inspo-pics are fun to look at, they can also spark that dreaded impostor syndrome within us. The thought of “can I really make something like this?” holds so many of us back from even attempting to start.
The truth is: terrariums are much simpler to create than most people think! All you need are a few base ingredients to start, and the courage to get creative.
ready to make your own world within a glass jar?
Here’s what you’ll need:
- A good potting mix (for this project we recommend Miracle-Gro® Cactus, Palm and Succulent Potting Mix)
- Activated Charcoal
- Your choice of terrarium-friendly plants: like succulents, air plants or miniature cacti
- Pebbles for drainage
- A spray bottle for watering
- Battery operated mini string lights
- A glass container for your terrarium plants
- Decorative or polished stones
- Crystals, small gnomes, or other mini decorations you want to add
step 1: choose your terrarium “home”
Avant de commencer, réfléchissez au style de votre terrarium et au type de plantes que vous souhaitez y placer.
Les réponses à ces questions détermineront si vous devez opter pour un terrarium ouvert ou fermé.
Si vous souhaitez avoir des plantes tropicales qui se développent dans des conditions humides, un terrarium fermé est idéal. En revanche, si vous optez pour des petits cactus ou des plantes grasses, un terrarium ouvert est la meilleure solution.
step 2: build your base
Got your perfect terrarium container? Great! Now, the real fun begins.
Start by adding a 1-1.5 inch layer of pebbles, followed by a thin layer of charcoal. The pebbles act as drainage holes, while the charcoal helps reduce the amount of bad bacteria that might start developing as your plants grow.
Once you’re done, add about 2.5 inches of your potting mix. Make sure you have enough soil for your plants’ roots to fit.
step 3: add your plants
Remove your plants from their original pot. Gently massage their roots to get rid of excess soil, and create small holes in your terrarium for your plant roots before carefully placing them inside.
We recommend starting with the bigger plants
step 4: have fun with it!
Now comes the best part – decorating your terrarium.
You can add polished stones, crystals, small figurines, or any other miniature decorations to make your terrarium unique to you.
Bring out your inner child, and don’t hold back!
step 5: light it up
Carefully weave your string lights into your terrarium, making sure that they’re not getting in the way of your plants. Place your battery pack somewhere easily accessible.
Once you’re all done, turn on the lights – and watch your terrarium come to life.
Not only do string lights add a touch of mythical beauty to your creation, they also provide much needed artificial lighting to the plants inside.
step 6: feed your ecosystem
Terrariums need very little upkeep to stay alive and thriving. But the amount of water they require depends on the type of terrarium you have.
Water evaporates faster in open terrariums, so they typically require a few sprays of it every couple weeks. Closed terrariums, however, retain water for much longer, so you only need to water them about twice a year.
Congratulations – you’ve officially created your own little ecosystem! Enjoy watching and documenting the growth that happens within your terrarium, all while fielding countless compliments from your friends and family.
#happycreating!
It’s the most wonderful time of the year: seed starting season is upon us! Starting your own seeds is by far the most cost effective way to create a lush, bountiful veggie garden in your own backyard. Here are three different ways to start your seeds: one simple setup requiring little equipment, an intermediate setup with a Root Farm Grow Light, and an AeroGarden to really kickstart those seeds.
MiracleGro Seed Starting Potting Mix + Window
This is the simplest seed starting method. Basically requiring sunlight and soil, it is also the method that requires the least investment (sunlight is free!).
To start seeds using this method, you need:
- A sunny window to put your seeds
- Seed starting pots (can substitute for egg cartons or nursery pots)
- Seeds
- MiracleGro Seed Starting Potting Mix
- Plant labels (can use popsicle sticks)
- Permanent marker
This seed starting setup is as simple as filling the pots with MiracleGro Seed Starting Potting Mix and placing a seed in each pot. Label the future seedlings with permanent marker on plant labels or popsicle sticks and place them on a sunny windowsill. Be sure to water them every day or two to keep the soil moist.
MiracleGro Seed Starting Potting Mix + Root Farm Grow Light
Starting seeds this way takes things up a notch by adding in a grow light. Grow lights are great because they give your plants a consistent source of light, regardless of whether the weather decides to cooperate. I love the Root Farm Grow Light because it’s large enough to fit a whole tray of seeds underneath, and it keeps the seeds on the warm side as well.
To start seeds using this method, you need:
- Root Farm Grow Light
- Seed starting pots (can substitute for egg cartons or nursery pots)
- Seeds
- MiracleGro Seed Starting Potting Mix
- Plant labels (can use popsicle sticks)
- Permanent marker
This seed starting setup is similar to the previous one. Begin by filling the pots with MiracleGro Seed Starting Potting Mix and placing a seed in each pot. Label your seedlings with permanent marker on plant labels or popsicle sticks. Assemble the Root Farm Grow Light and plug it in, placing it over the seeds. Water the seeds every one to two days to keep the soil moist.
Pro tip: Try plugging your Root Farm Grow Light into a smart plug. Use the app on your phone to set a schedule so you don’t have to worry about turning it on and off every day!
AeroGarden Seed Starting System
Of these three methods, the fastest way to get your seeds to germinate is, without a doubt, the AeroGarden Seed Starting System. AeroGarden is a hydroponic growing system for 5x faster growth than soil. The AeroGarden Seed Starting System is an accessory that is sold separately from the AeroGarden, and is available for the various models (be sure to choose the Seed Starting System made specifically for your AeroGarden model.)
To start seeds with the AeroGarden Seed Starting System, you’ll need:
- AeroGarden (Harvest Elite is pictured, but you can use any model)
- AeroGarden Seed Starting System accessory (Harvest Elite is pictured; choose the version made for your AeroGarden model)
- Seeds
- Water
Begin by pre-soaking the grow sponges in water. Swap the standard AeroGarden grow deck for the Seed Starting System grow deck and place one sponge in each of the holes. Place a seed in each of the grow sponges. Plug the AeroGarden in and go follow the steps to start a garden. Fill the reservoir with water and plant food (according to directions on the back of the bottle).
Pro tip: To “label” your seedlings, draw a diagram of the AeroGarden grow deck (or take a photo with a smartphone) and label each space according to which seed you planted where.
For more advice and ideas on Aerogardens, visit www.aerogarden.com.
#easypeasy
Recently, we asked our Instagram community what their biggest questions were when it comes to repotting.
The response we saw, again and again: “When is the right time to repot my plant?”
We understand the confusion. Knowing when a plant needs to be repotted isn’t the same as knowing when you should get a bigger pair of jeans. There’s more nuance and complexity to the decision.
Which is why we put together a handy-dandy checklist to help you figure out if your plant needs a bigger pot, or not.
1. are your roots growing out of their drainage holes
If so, it’s a clear sign that they have no more room to grow in their current planter, and need a larger one, ASAP.
2. Are you seeing plant roots on the surface of your soil?
When they’ve run out of space, roots can begin to grow upward in search of more soil and nutrients. This can push the plant up, and make it look like it’s almost coming out of its pot.
3. Is your plant growing slower than usual?
Yes, winter dormancy is a thing. But if you’re noticing a significant lack of growth, this could be a sign that your plants simply don’t have enough space to continue thriving.
4. Is your plant slumping over?
Once your plant has grown larger than its own pot, it’s likely to start tipping over. Which is when you know you need a bigger, wider pot to help it maintain stability as it grows.
5. Does your potting mix dry faster than usual?
Growing plants have a need for extra nutrients and water. So if you’re noticing their soil getting dry faster, that means it’s time to transition to a pot that will facilitate your plant’s steady growth.
6. is your plant more than 3X the size of its current planter?
Ideally, your pot should be half the size of your plant. If your plant becomes triple its size or more, it needs extra space – or else its growth will be inhibited.
7. is there a weird white residue on your pot or plant leaves?
That’s salt and mineral buildup – which is a clear indication that your plant needs more nutrients, and potentially a bigger pot with fresh soil.
8.has it been over a year since you last repotted your plant?
Rule of thumb: repot your plant at least once every year! It’ll spur new growth, and keep your plant healthy and happy.
to drain or not to drain
It is recommended selecting planters and pots with drainage, especially if you are new to watering plants. It’s totally possible to make planters without drainage work with a little finesse! A good tip to remember is to pour no more than 1/3 of the container’s size in water. Lining the bottom of a planter with lava rocks or similar to create crevices for excess water to drain into is a great way to avoid root rot.
what you’ll need
- Your plant (obviously!)
- Your new planter
- Miracle-Gro® Indoor Potting Mix
- Miracle-Gro® Indoor Plant Food
step 1: remove your plant from its current planter
Turn your plant sideways, hold it gently by its stems, and tap the bottom of its pot until the plant slides out.
step 2: prep your plant
Loosen your plant’s roots by massaging it gently with your fingers.
step 3: add your potting mix
Scoop in a nutrient-rich, well-draining potting mix into your new plant pot, until it fills a third of the pot. We recommend Miracle-Gro® Indoor Potting Mix – it feeds your plant for up to 6 months!
step 4: add your plant
Place your plant into the new pot, filling it in with more potting mix. Look at that – you’re only one step away from being done!
step 5: feed your plant
Give your plant a good watering, and add some Miracle-Gro® Indoor Plant Food for an extra nutrient boost.
Want more info where that came from?
To learn more about which material and size of planter you should be getting for your plant’s repotting, read this article!
#HappyRepotting!
If you want to keep your plants alive, there are a few things you have to do: give them light, feed them now and then, and – of course – water them.
Sounds easy right? Then why doesn’t your plant collection look like it’s getting enough water? The answer is easy, overhead watering may not be saturating your plant’s soil. The solution: Try bottom watering.
what is it?
Bottom watering plants is a method of watering that waters potted plants from the bottom up. The plant is placed in a tray or container of water and absorbs water via capillary action through the holes in the bottom of the pot.
Instead of dumping liquid onto the top of the soil of your container plants, you allow the soil to soak it up into its roots from the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot.
is bottom watering better for your plants?
Bottom watering helps you to avoid drowning your plants in their pot. The soil will only absorb as much moisture as it can hold. It also prevents certain pests, because the top layer of soil will stay dry when watering your plant.
can you over water by bottom watering?
Yes, if the plant is sitting in water too long, you can still overwater your plant through bottom watering. However, bottom watering is a more controlled method of watering your plants. Just make sure your plant is in a nursery pot or a pot with drainage holes.
how to bottom water:
- Fill a large bowl or saucer with water.
- Remove your plant from its planter (but keep it in the nursery pot).
- Let the plant sit in the bowl/saucer for about 15 minutes.
PRO TIP
If you’re finding that your plants are bigger than any bowl you have, you can fill a nursery tray or even your kitchen sink with water to sit your plant in.
benefits of bottom watering:
- Less pests because the top layer of soil doesn’t get too wet.
- Thorough and even water intake
- Less chance of damage to your home from spills from the watering can
- Virtually no clean up
which plants like bottom watering?
#easypeasy
Love houseplants but worried your indoor space is too dark? Never fear, there are plenty of low light plants that will green up even the gloomiest room.
Houseplants bring colour and life into a home – and this is especially valuable in darker rooms, such as those that face north or have small windows. But how do you find plants that will thrive in lower light levels? Luckily many popular houseplants originate in shady forest floors and can take shade in their stride. Here’s a selection of unique plants for darker spots in your home.
1
schefflera arboricola
Sometimes called dwarf umbrella trees, Schefflera arboricolas thrive in low to medium light environments. They’ll also grow under artificial lights if they’re kept within about one foot of the light. If your Schefflera becomes leggy or grows slowly, it probably needs a brighter location.
2
peace lily
Peace Lily is a popular flowering plant that blooms several times a year, even when it’s grown in low light conditions.It can also grow in medium light conditions, but if you have low light you don’t need to worry about growth being inhibited.
3
cast iron plant (aspidistra eliator)
This plant can survive lots of neglect and growing conditions that will kill many other plants, such as low light conditions. For a gardener with a brown thumb, this sturdy, long-lasting plant can be used in areas where all else fails. It is always green and can handle deep shade.
4
rhipsalis cactus
Rhipsalis is a type of cactus that hails from shady rainforests and makes a tough houseplant that can tolerate a fair degree of shade. Most varieties are spineless too, making them one of the least cactus-like cacti out there. Grow it in a hanging pot to best appreciate its delicate, pendent form.
5
lucky bamboo
Lucky bamboo is a unique looking plant that doesn’t require much maintenance in order to grow and thrive. It grows very well in medium and low light and, in case you don’t feel like setting up a pot or planter, it doesn’t require anything more than water to grow.
#letsgro
Whether you’ve run out of shelf space for your plant babies or are looking for a rental-friendly way to bring hanging plants into your life, a hanging plant stand can be a cute and functional addition to your space.
here’s how to turn a humble clothing rack into a minimalist plant stand
here’s what you need to get started:
- steel clothing rack (available at many big box stores)
- project panel/wood/plywood (to fit clothing rack)
- 4 EMT straps (sized to fit around pipes of the plant stand)
- 4 wood screws
- flat black spray paint (or colour of your choice)
- wood stain
- paintbrush
- drill or screwdriver
- sand paper
- saw
- pencil
- measuring tape
- hanging plants and pots
step one.
Measure the base of the clothing rack, where you will eventually add the bottom shelf, and note the dimensions. With a pencil and measuring tape, use those dimensions to mark the piece of wood where it will need to be cut to fit on the base.
step two.
Use a saw to cut along the guidelines you made in step one.
If you don’t have a saw (or aren’t comfortable using one), most major hardware stores will cut wood pieces down to size for you – just be sure to bring the exact dimensions you need!
step three.
Sand any cut edges on the piece of wood.rnrnTo finish the shelf, coat it with the wood stain of your choice. Skip this step for a more boho look, or paint the shelf instead for a modern farmhouse vibe.
step four.
Spray paint the clothing rack. You may need to do several thin coats to ensure full coverage, letting each coat fully dry before going in with the next.
step five.
Use four EMT straps and wood screws to attach the piece of wood to the bottom shelf area of the clothing rack.
step six.
The final step – and my favourite one! – is to style your plants on your new plant stand. Place larger plants or plant care supplies on the lower shelf, and smaller hanging plants in macrame hangers from the top bar. Vary pot and basket choice to really express your style and help your new plant stand fit in with your space!
#easypeasy
let’s be honest: watering plants can feel a bit like a chore sometimes. We love our plant babies, but life just gets in the way.
but do not fear – plant straws are here. This simple, easy to install self-watering plant straw system is your key to plant-watering freedom. So, whether you forget to water your plants, or you are planning a getaway and want to make sure yours are taken care of, then this post is for you.
thirst things first: what are plant straws?
Plant straws are made using two simple things : a long cotton cord, and a thin metal tube. One end of the cord is buried in the soil of a plant, while the other end lies in a vessel of water. The cord draws out moisture from the vessel and releases it into a plant’s soil. The thin metal tube, which the cord is strung through, keeps the cord stable – and makes the entire system look chic. So, expect LOTS of compliments pouring in once you have set up your plant straw.
how do plant straws work?
If you are shaking your head furiously and thinking, “this can’t be real,” you are not alone. The idea of a cotton cord watering your plants can seem too good to be true. But don’t click away just yet! There’s a scientific explanation to how all this works.
The cord inside the tube wants to stay evenly moist, so it constantly draws out water from the vessel you placed it in. Meanwhile, your soil instinctively absorbs moisture from the wet cord when it needs a dose of hydration.
ready? let’s gro.
here’s what you need to get started:
- A plant tube of your choice
- A cotton cord that is a several inches longer than your tube
- A glass vessel
- And – obviously – water!
step one. measure twice, cut once.
Start by measuring how much of the cotton cord and tube you need. Be sure to leave a few inches that can sit in your plant as well as in the water of your vessel.
step two. H2O is the way to go
Next up, wet your cotton cord in water until it is fully soaked. Then, squeeze out the excess.
step three. show us your roots
Feed your cord through the tube. Take one end of your cord and push it several inches below the soil’s surface. Depending on how much water your plant needs, you might want to bury more of your cord within.
step four. just add water
Feed what is left of your cord through your tube. Then, fill up a glass vessel with water, and place the remaining end of the cord in it.
step five. sip sip, hooray
Cheers to crossing “water my plants” off your to-do list for good! Now that you have set up your self-watering plant straw system, the only time you will need to think about watering your plants is when it’s time to feed them, or when you need to refill your vessel.
Do your plants actually need a straw?
The answer: it depends. The thirstier your plant is, the more we recommend you invest in a plant straw! For example, if you have got a Monstera Deliciosa or Monstera Adansonii, a plant straw could really benefit their extra hydration needs.
Got more questions about plant straws? Or just want to chat? Come hang out with us and our plant experts in the Plant Chat.
