Consider elevating your elephant ear slightly by adding a layer of rocks and pebbles between the planter and its saucer. This helps increase the humidity and prevents root rot.  Use a well-draining soil for your elephant ear. Consider using Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm & Succulent Potting Mix or Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix for a happy plant.

The best time to repot your elephant ear is during the spring months. When repotting your elephant ear, make sure to use a well-draining soil. Consider using a soil like Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm & Succulent Potting Mix or Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix to help refresh the soil.

While you can’t propagate an elephant ear with a cutting, you can divide tubers of a healthy adult plant. The tubers have a texture similar to that of a potato. You can easily cut through it with a sharp knife. Plant the divided tuber immediately into your potting soil and keep it moderately wet.

Common pests for elephant ears are aphids, spidermites and mealybugs. Use a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide Ready-to-Use and make sure the leaves of your plant are treated as well.

Too much sunlight or overwatering. You can cut the dying leaves close to the base of the stem. This should prevent more leaves from yellowing. Then adjust your watering schedule or move it away from direct sunlight.

Usually due to overwatering. The leaves of an elephant ear are long and heart-shaped, which naturally draws water to the tip of the leaf. If there aren’t other signs of overwatering, like soft stems or yellow leaves, you can likely hold off on watering for a few days.

It’s a sunburn. Your plant is too close to bright, direct light. Elephant ears tend to thrive in bright, indirect light. Scorched leaves won’t kill your plant, it just doesn’t look pretty.

Fungal leaf blight. If this fungus isn’t caught early, it will cause the whole leaf to collapse and travel to the rest of the plant. To prevent this, make sure you’re using high-quality, well-draining soil.

Lilies love to have their roots in cool soil, and their heads in the sun. The best soil option to keep your lilies happy is a rich, moist soil. that is also well-draining. Consider adding in just a little bit of organic compost.

You can find a wide variety of companion plants from annuals, bulbs to
other perennials. Consider using annuals such as dill, geraniums, pansies, or new guinea impatiens. Dahlias, daffodils, or irises make great companions when planting other bulbs. Perennials such as peonies, daisies and lavender are excellent companions for lilies.

Lilies only bloom once per season. You can remove, or deadhead, faded flowers to keep your plant from wasting energy making new seeds.

The most common pest issues for lilies are infestations of scarlet lily beetles. These little guys like to hang out on the underside of leaves. The easiest way to get rid of these little pests is to catch them manually by holding a bottle of warm water under the leaves you’re inspecting. The bugs will be startled and drop off into the water waiting below.

Lily disease. This is a fungal infection that creates oval-shaped dark spots on your lily’s leaves. Make sure you use clean tools before you get started. Then clear out the infected soil and debris and get rid of the infected plant. Be sure to not plant lilies in an infected spot again.

Could be overwatering, sunburn, or underwatering. If the tip of the leaf is brown and crunchy, this means the soil is likely too dry.

Likely a fungus. Many fungi (Rhizoctonia, Phytophthora, Pythium, Fusarium, and Cylindrocarpon) attack the bulb and cause the roots to rot. This will also cause the plant to wilt, and eventually die. Be sure to remove the infected plants and check all bulbs carefully before planting.

Could be the result of small bulbs or over-crowding in the soil. Planting your lily bulbs too shallow could also lead to your lily not producing big blooms. If you cut away the leaves after a lily has flowered, it may also decrease the likelihood of flowering the following year. Keep in mind, some lilies won’t flower in their first year of planting due to transplant shock.

Succulents thrive in porous, well draining potting mix. These usually have less organic matter than regular indoor potting mix. A mix like Miracle-Gro® Cactus, Palm & Succulent Potting Mix is well-draining and won’t compact. Don’t forget to feed your plants consistently during the feeding season.

Repotting a young jade plant every 2 – 3 years will encourage growth. If you want to keep your jade plant small, they enjoy being slightly rootbound and can stay in a small pot to maintain a manageable size. Always repot in the spring.

Propagating a jade plant is super easy! You can start a whole new jade from just a single leaf or cutting. Remove a leaf or stem cutting from a healthy, mature plant, making sure it’s about 2-3 inches long and has at least 2 leaf pairs. Let the cutting sit in a warm, bright place for several days to develop a little callous. Place the cutting in moist, well-draining soil, keeping it propped upright with rocks. Be sure not to water your jade cutting at this point. After a week or two roots should start to form. Gently water the soil once roots have formed, and allow soil to dry between watering.

Jade is prone to mealybugs and scale. Mealybugs may hide under the leaves of your plant. During your routine leaf cleaning, inspect the underside. Most pests can be managed by using an insecticidal soap such as Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap. For more tips, check out our Pest control section in Plant 101 for how to identify and deal with pests on your plant!

Overwatering. While young jade plants need thorough watering, if your jade’s leaves are squishy and dropping it’s definitely getting overwatered.

Underwatering. These are clear signs that your jade is asking for more frequent or deeper watering.

Root rot. Do a quick inspection of your plant’s root ball. A healthy root will be firm a white. If your plant’s roots are looking brown or slimy, it’s definitely root rot. To avoid this, be sure the soil is drying out completely between watering.

You’ve got scale. These insects feed on the sap in your jade’s leaves. You can quickly remedy this problem by applying Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap.

String of heart plants are a member of the succulent family, so they need a porous, well-draining potting mix that doesn’t retain a lot of moisture because these beauties are prone to root rot. It’s recommended to use a succulent specific potting mix, like Miracle-Gro® Cactus, Palm & Succulent Potting Mix.

String of hearts tend to be okay with staying slightly rootbound, so you don’t need to keep a strict schedule when repotting. A good rule of thumb is to repot about every 1 – 2 years. Use a pot that is a few inches bigger than its current pot and has a drainage hole.

Start by trimming your string of hearts just under a nodule. Place your cutting in moist soil and watch your new plant take root. This process will likely take about a month. Make sure the soil is kept moist during this growing period.

String of hearts are prone to root rot, so make sure your plant’s soil is drying out between watering. Other pests like aphids or mealybugs can be managed by using an insecticidal soap such as Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap.

Not enough light. Move your string of hearts to a place where it can sit in ample indirect, bright light.

Overwatering or root rot. Root rot is caused by overwatering. The easiest way to tell if it’s root rot or just overwatering is to give it a sniff. If your plant smells bad, it’s root rot. If it smells okay, just hold off on watering it for a little the soil dries out a bit.

Sunburn. It looks like your string of hearts is getting too much sun. These plants enjoy bright, but indirect light. Move your plant away from direct sunlight, but keep in a nice, bright room.

Underwatering. Thinning or curling leaves is a clear indicator of underwatering. Give your string of hearts a good soak and your plant should be happily re-hydrated.

Money Trees need a sandy, peat-moss based soil. Consider adding Miracle-Gro® Sphagnum Peat Moss to your plant’s soil. Don’t forget to use a pot with drainage!

Money Trees usually need to be repotted every three years. The best time to repot is during the spring time, to promote growth. While you can cut back on some root growth, be sure not to take off more than 25% of the roots.

The best way to propagate your Money Tree is through a cutting. Take your 6 inch branch cutting, with several leaf nodes, and allow to root in water. Promptly transfer to a soil mixture with peat moss.

Money Trees are very attractive to aphids and mealybugs. You can use a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide Ready-to-use to prevent these creepy crawlies from returning.

Watering issues. If your Money Tree’s leaves are drooping it could be as simple as inconsistent watering. Keep a schedule and check the soil’s moisture level to understand its needs. If the leaves are yellowing, it’s likely due to overwatering. It’s time to water when the top 2 to 4 inches of soil are dry.

Sounds like root rot. This happens when a fungus has attacked your plant’s roots and is a sign that you’ve been overwatering. Root rot can be fatal if it’s not caught early. The best chance you can give your Money Tree for survival is to repot immediately, removing as much old soil as possible.

Guttation. This it totally normal! If the rest of your Money Tree looks healthy, there’s nothing to worry about. But… if you see little dark bumps on your plant, it could be a pest infestation.

Overwatering. Avoid excessive watering and finger test your plant’s soil when you’re about to water. Make sure you’re only watering when the first 2 to 4 inches of soil are dry.

Too much sunlight. Too much bright, direct sunlight can cause your Money Tree to drop leaves. Another common cause is if your Money Tree has recently moved to its new home. Dropping a few leaves as your plant adjusts to its new home is totally normal.

Hollyhock will do well in almost any soil but prefers a well-drained soil. The most important factor is good air circulation, so do not crowd plants or plant too close to structures, hedges or other plants.  

Hollyhocks make excellent companions for Dahlias, Clematis, Shasta Daisies, Shrub Roses, Baby’s Breath, Black-eyed Susan, or Climbing Roses.  

Hollyhocks have single or double, cup-shaped flowers with little or no stalk and bloom on tall spikes. Hollyhocks come in a wide variety of colours: blue, pink, purple, red, white, yellow and even black. 

Rust is a leaf disease to which hollyhocks are especially prone. It is worse on older plants and can be kept in check by replacing plants every couple of years. 

Rust is a common problem with hollyhocks and can cause the plants to look ragged. Brown, yellow or orange spots appear as the fungus forms and grows. The damaged leaves will fall off as the disease progresses. Control fungi through proper removal and disposal of infected plants and with a general fungicide. 

High winds or torrential rains can damage hollyhocks because of the sheer height of the flowers. The stalks are strong, but can be knocked around by a summer storm. A trellis positioned behind the hollyhocks gives you a place to anchor the plants. Garden twine, looped around the stalk and fastened to the trellis, keeps the hollyhocks in place when strong winds hit the garden. 

Japanese beetles love the large leaves of the hollyhock plant and create unsightly holes in the foliage. The hibiscus sawfly looks like an elongated housefly with an orange spot just below the head. The larvae of these pests eat the foliage and can completely destroy the leaves on several plants in a short time. Insecticidal soaps and beetle traps generally aid in ridding the hollyhocks of the pests. 

Some caterpillars cause hollyhock stems to break and leaves to wilt. Close examination shows small round holes in the stems. Control stalk borers by slitting each affected stem lengthwise, removing the borers, and binding the stems together. Practice clean cultivation and burn all weeds, stems and plant remains likely to harbor over-wintering eggs. 

A fungal stem canker attacks hollyhocks at bloom time on rare occasions. Stem lesions are first dark brown and later ash-gray. As these spots girdle the stem the part above wilts, collapses, breaks off and dies. Remove and destroy infected plants or plant parts as soon as you notice them. Disinfect clippers and other tools after using them on cankered plants. Space plants farther apart to minimize splash-borne infection.