Spider Plants
Colour: Green, white, cream 
Sun Exposure: Bright, indirect light 
Family: Asparagaceae 
Native Areas: Southern Africa 
Plant Type: Herbaceous perennial, commonly grown as a houseplant 
Mature Size: 30–60 cm tall and wide, with longer cascading stems 
Soil Type: Loose, well-draining potting mix 
Soil PH: Slightly acidic to neutral, approximately 6.0–7.0 
Bloom Time: Spring and summer 
Hardiness Zones: Typically grown indoors in Canada 
Toxicity: Non-toxic to cats and dogs Spider Plants grow best in bright, indirect light. Too much direct sun can cause scorched or faded leaves, while very low light may result in slower growth and fewer plantlets. Variegated varieties may also lose some of their distinctive colouring when grown in insufficient light.
Water when the top few centimetres of soil feel dry. Water thoroughly until excess moisture drains from the bottom of the container, and empty any water that collects in the saucer. Spider Plants appreciate consistent moisture but don’t like sitting in soggy soil.
Average household temperatures generally suit Spider Plants well. Keep them away from cold drafts and sudden temperature changes. Normal household humidity is usually sufficient, although plants may appreciate additional humidity when indoor air becomes particularly dry during winter.
Feed your Spider Plant during periods of active growth, typically in spring and summer, with a plant food formulated for tropical indoor plants. Always follow the product label for application rates and frequency.
Spider Plants have vigorous root systems, so eventually they’ll need a little more room. Signs it may be time to repot include roots emerging from drainage holes, soil that dries out extremely fast, crowded roots, or the plant beginning to lift itself out of its container. Choose a container with drainage holes that is only slightly larger than the current pot, add fresh, well-draining potting mix and keep the plant at approximately the same depth. Spring and early summer are ideal times to repot.
Mature Spider Plants develop long stems with small plantlets, or “spiderettes,” at their ends. Once a plantlet begins developing small roots, you can propagate it.
Hello plant lovers! It’s Shavonne again, from Once Upon a Bungalow. I love home, DIY, and all things plant-related. Make sure you check out my Instagram here. I’m here on Plant Project Canada’s webpage with instructions on how to build planter boxes to be attached under a window. This was a fairly simple project that made a big impact on my home’s curb appeal.
This project would be suitable for a beginner woodworker and fun for any skill level. Check out the reel for this project on Instagram, TikTok, or Facebook. Let’s get started!…
The following instructions are to make one planter box.
Start with the pressure-treated wood deck board 5/4” x 6” x 8’-0”. Using a tape measure, measure up from the bottom of the board 35”. Mark this measurement with a pencil, and then use a carpenter’s square to make a straight line. Cut this marking with a mitre saw at a 90-degree angle. Repeat this process four times to create four pieces that measure 35”. These will be the pieces used for the front and back of the box.
Using the remaining pressure-treated wood deck board, cut four more pieces at 7”. To do this, mark the 7” measurement with a pencil, and use a carpenter’s square to make a straight pencil marking. Cut this marking with a mitre saw at a 90-degree angle. Repeat this process four times to create four pieces that measure 7”. These will be the pieces used for the sides of the box.
Next, using scrap lumber or 1” x 4” x 8’-0” Lumber, cut four 1” x 1” x 6” pieces using the same method explained above. These four pieces will be the wood that attaches and holds the front and back pieces together.
Refer to the images below.
Using a clamp, secure the two front pieces together. These are the boards that were cut to 35”. Ensure they are flush along their edges when placed beside one another before clamping tightly. Place the 1” x 1” x 6” piece along the edge of the two pieces, using the 7” piece of decking board placed perpendicularly to the 35” board as the guide for placement. Using two clamps, secure this piece in place. Using a drill, pre-drill two holes into each side of this piece. Then, use a power drill and 1 ¾” screws to secure this in place.
Refer to the images below.
Using a clamp, secure the 7” piece flush and perpendicular behind the 35” piece, making sure that the back of the 7” piece is tight against the side of the 1” x 1” piece. Using a drill, pre-drill two holes into this piece from the face of the box, down into the side pieces. Then, using a power drill, secure these pieces using 1 ¾” screws. Next, place the other 7” piece beside the 7” piece that is already attached. Use a clamp to make sure this piece is tight up against the other 7” piece and is flush and perpendicular to the face of the box. Pre-drill and screw to attach.
Refer to the images below.
Flip the back of the box onto the top of the box with the sides attached. Pre-drill four holes into each of the sides, and then secure using 1 ¾” screws. The base of the flower box has been created.
Refer to the images below.
Using 1” x 4” x 8’-0” Lumber or scrap wood of the same thickness, cut three pieces to a 7” measurement using a mitre saw. These pieces will create the shelf on which the Plastic Flower Box Inserts will sit. Place one 7” piece in the middle of the bottom of the box. Place the other two tight to each side. Ensure pieces are flush with the bottom of the box. Pre-drill two holes on each side and then fasten with two 1 ¾” screws on each side. The bottom of the box is left open to allow drainage and reduce the risk of the wood swelling that can be possible with watering.
Refer to the images below.
The next step of the project is to cut the trim pieces. These will cover the screws that are showing on the exterior of the box from constructing the garden box. Ensure that you cut the initial pieces a little longer than the following measurements, allowing for room for error and editing. Using the Natural Pine Laminated Shelf 0.7” x 15.25” x 96”, rip strips on a table saw into 1 ½” strips and ¾” strips lengthways. Once the strips are cut, proceed to make the following cuts below using a mitre saw.
Once these cuts have been made, make a light pencil mark of where the screws in the project are already located. Make sure the pencil marking is visible even after the trim is placed for attaching. This will give direction on where the screws on the garden box are located to ensure that a brad nail does not hit a screw. Then, use a thin bead of wood glue, and then attach with 1” brad nails to the planter box. There will be no trim around the back side of the planter. Refer to the images below.
Sand any sides of the project that feel rough by hand using sandpaper or an electric sander. Stain the preferred colour, inside and out. Seal with a water-based polyurethane sealer inside and out for extra water protection.
Refer to the images below.
To attach to the window, first use a mitre saw to cut two 7” pieces of 1” x 4” x 8’-0” Lumber or scrap wood. These pieces will be anchored to the exterior of the house. This allows for the window boxes to be jutted out slightly from the house so there is allowance for water to drain through and not sit at the edge of the window sill. Pre-drill two holes into the 7” pieces and then anchor with 3” screws to the side of the house. Use a level to ensure these pieces are level. Once the two 7” pieces have been anchored, place the window box against them, pre-drill a hole in the back piece of the window box, and then proceed to anchor it with a 3” screw. Once there is one screw in one side, use a level to make sure the box is level with the window, and anchor the other side. Use two 3” screws on both sides.
Refer to the images below.
Now for the fun part! Designing the garden boxes. This was a fall project, which meant fall mums and pumpkins were a must.
The “Spiller, Filler, Thriller” rule is something to keep in mind when planting garden boxes. It’s a simple rule of thumb to design balanced plant containers. The thriller is the tall, eye-catching plant placed toward the center or back of the container. The fillers are shorter, fuller plants that surround the thriller and add colour and texture. The spillers grow over the edge of the container, creating a cascading effect and making the arrangement look more finished.
In the planters, Miracle-Gro All Purpose Potting Mix was a clear choice! It provides a lightweight, nutrient-rich growing medium that helps plants establish strong roots and grow healthily. It also has good moisture retention and drainage. Remember that using a quality potting mix can also help give plants a consistent growing environment throughout the season.
The plants used in the images below are Celosia Flower (Cockscomb), Vinca Major (Greater Periwinkle), Chrysanthemum (Garden Mum), Heuchera (Coral Bells), Centaurea Ragusina (Silver Swirl Dusty Miller), Cupressus Macrocarpa ‘Goldcrest’ (Lemon Cypress), Purple Fountain Grass (Pennisetum Setaceum ‘Rubrum’).
I used galvanized steel wire to make large metal loops for the vines to wrap around and to add extra visual interest to each arrangement. Be sure to always complete your project with solar-powered twinkle lights for even more magic and whimsy.
I think these turned out absolutely stunning, and I’m so happy with how they came together! There’s something so special about adding window boxes to a home—they instantly bring colour, texture, and a little extra personality to the space. I also love that these boxes can be completely transformed throughout the year. From bright and colourful blooms in the spring and summer to cozy seasonal combinations in the fall, there are so many fun ways to change them up and keep them looking fresh throughout every season.
I hope this project has inspired you to look at your own outdoor spaces a little differently and maybe even try creating a window box of your own. Gardening is such a fun way to get creative, and there really are no limits when it comes to choosing plants, colours, and combinations that reflect your personal style.
If you’d like to see the full process, be sure to check out the video for this project here. And if you decide to create your own window boxes inspired by this project, we would absolutely love to see them! Be sure to tag @plantprojectcanda and @onceuponabungalow so we can follow along and see your beautiful creations. There’s nothing better than seeing how everyone puts their own unique spin on a gardening project!
Thank you so much for following along and letting me share these little gardening projects with you. I hope this inspires you to get outside, get your hands in the soil, and create something beautiful of your own.
Until next time,
Happy gardening! 🌿🌸
Shavonne
Hello all! I’m Shavonne from Once Upon a Bungalow. Here with another fun How-to. Bringing spring indoors is one of the easiest ways to brighten your home during colder months, and it’s fun to make, too! A mixed bulb planter filled with hyacinths, paperwhites, and daffodils creates layers of colour, fragrance, and texture—all in one container. Follow this detailed step-by-step guide to create a lush, thriving indoor spring display.
Start with a large, shallow bowl or planter that preferably has drainage holes. If your bowl doesn’t have drainage, like the one I chose, add a layer of pebbles at the bottom to help prevent water from sitting around the roots. A wide container allows you to layer multiple bulbs for a fuller, more visually appealing arrangement.
Fill your container about halfway with a high-quality indoor potting mix. I chose Miracle-Gro® Indoor Potting Mix. This type of soil is specially formulated to:
Using a premium mix gives your bulbs the best possible start and helps ensure healthy, vibrant blooms.
When planting a mixed bulb arrangement, placement matters for both aesthetics and growth timing.
Position bulbs close together, but not touching. Unlike outdoor planting, indoor arrangements benefit from a tighter, more abundant look.
Add more soil around the bulbs, leaving the top third of each bulb exposed.
Firm the soil gently around the bulbs to secure them in place. Once the bulbs were planted at the desired location, I added moss around each bulb and embellished the arrangement with curly willow, sticks, and some faux birds.
Water the planter until the soil is evenly moist but not soggy. Good drainage is key—bulbs can rot if they sit in water. I used a watering can for this, along with a spray bottle to keep the moss nice and moist.
After the initial watering:
Lighting plays a major role in how your bulbs grow indoors.
Good lighting encourages sturdy stems, vibrant colours, and longer-lasting blooms.
A seed heating mat can significantly improve your results, especially in cooler homes.
Benefits include:
Place the planter on the mat for the first couple of weeks after planting. Once shoots appear, you can remove them and move the planter to its display location.
Hyacinths
Paperwhites
Daffodils
As your bulbs grow:
Creating an indoor spring bulb planter is a simple but rewarding project. By combining hyacinths, paperwhites, and daffodils in one container—and supporting them with quality soil, proper lighting, and gentle care—you’ll enjoy a long-lasting, fragrant display that brings the joy of spring right into your home. Remember, you are not limited by plant pots or plant containers. Try out teacups, teapots, and other fun containers for your spring bulbs! These also make the most beautiful gifts.
I’m so honoured to be a guest on Plant Project Canada’s blog once again. Be sure to tag me in your creations. Thank you for stopping by!
Find me on Instagram, TikTok, YouTube or Facebook!
Until next time! Xo Shavo
Hello everyone! My name is Shavonne, and my social channels can be found by searching Once Upon a Bungalow on most social media platforms. I’m on Plant Project Canada’s blog to teach you about the DIY Patio Pond. I’ll cover all the different aspects of the project in this article, from the supply list, to what soil to use, to what plants to buy and the overall maintenance that comes with having one of these ponds on your patio!
check out these videos to get inspired:
Classic Patio Pond
Maintenance and Care Tips
Let’s jump in!
All the supplies listed below are optional, and what is needed will be based on the type of pond you would like to create.
Similar to creating a traditional planter pot feature with soil, layers of different shapes and sizes of plants are important considerations to make. Create a stunning pond by including a variety of plants. Consider using tall plants for the back or middle of the pond, filler plants around your taller plants, and floating plants for the front of the patio pond.
Pre-made and ready-to-go options will be located in the pond plant section at your local greenhouse. Pre-potted options are super easy and my personal favourite. These are already potted in the proper soil and rocks, and allow you to simply drop the plants into the pond as they are and enjoy.
The tags on the plants will specify how deep to place the plants in your pond. Just like a traditional planter, each plant will have different requirements to ensure it grows and thrives to the best of its ability. For example, water lilies are beautiful but require being in a deeper pond, so keep that in mind when purchasing your pond plants. Just like flowers in your garden, the tag on the plant will list the optimal locations, sunlight needs, and depths of planting. Below are some of the many options for your patio pond.
The biggest thing to remember when caring for your patio pond is that it is not a pool, so the water is not going to stay perfectly clear and immaculately clean. This style of a patio pond is similar to a bird bath, which means you may have to dump it out, give it a quick rinse and refill it every so often. If you are having trouble with an excess of algae, try moving the location of the pond to a less sunny spot. If you are finding that the solar fountain isn’t circulating the water enough, add a plug-in pump to give more water movement.
One of my biggest recommendations when making a pond with a planter pot around the bottom is to use Miracle-Gro® Moisture Control soil. This type of soil will ensure that the plants in the surrounding base pot won’t get over-saturated with water when the pond pot inevitably spills over into the plants in the surrounding base pot. Ensure there are drainage holes in the base pot as well to help with the excess water these plants will experience.
When choosing plants for the base pot, pick plants that don’t mind being exposed to more water. I’ve had success with creeping jenny, potato vines, and ivy. Try and stay away from plants that don’t like a lot of water, such as succulents, cacti, and other drought-resistant plants. Despite your best efforts, the water will spill over into this area, so take the time to protect the plants you have invested in.
This is an easy one! Mosquitos do not like moving water, they only like still water. As long as your pond has water circulating, mosquitoes shouldn’t be an issue.
You can use as big or as small of a pot as you like. The larger the pot, however, the more plants you can enjoy in the pond. The larger pot in my video content is 30 inches wide by 17” high.
Just like other plants, you can winterize your pond plants. You’ll need adequate lighting, such as a very sunny window or a grow light to do so. You’ll also have to change out the water frequently to keep them healthy throughout the winter. Personally, I just purchase new pond plants every year as I don’t have the space to winter too many plants indoors; however, if you are able to winterize, this could be a big money saver in the long run. Keep in mind, I do live in Canada, so I am not able to keep my patio pond out all year.
Fish require a lot more research to keep in a pond, it’s doable, but this is out of my scope of knowledge on the topic of patio ponds. They would likely need more circulation in the water than just a solar fountain. I recommend researching this topic in depth before adding pet fish to the mix!
Wild animals such as birds and squirrels love ponds and bird baths! After speaking to a bee expert, I have learned that bees specifically like this type of water source as they prefer a more “natural taste” that a patio pond can offer. I can only speak from my experience when it comes to domesticated animals drinking from a patio pond. Our small pup, Mojito, has been fine after having the odd drink from the pond. We don’t encourage it, but he finds a way to sneak a drink here and there. If you are worried about your pet drinking from the pond, just take extra precautions to keep your pet away from your patio pond.
You don’t need as many plants as you think. Just like other plants, they grow and expand! Especially in terms of the floating pond plants. You likely will only need one plant of the floating variety in a small pond, and you’ll be surprised just how quickly these spread and grow. You can separate or propagate pond plants, just as you would any other plant.
I hope this helps get you started on your patio pond adventure. Please feel free to contact me with any other questions you may have. If you create a patio pond, please tag @PlantProjectCanada and/or @OnceUponaBungalow! We would love to see what you design!
Hello Everyone! My name is Shavonne, and you can find me anywhere on social media under the name Once Upon a Bungalow. Plant Project Canada has graciously asked me back to give you some tips on creating outdoor holiday arrangements. Now, I’ll be honest with you, this was my first time making an outdoor arrangement. I’m not claiming to be an expert. I am, however, going to show you everything I learned, along with the materials I used to make these as quirky and unique as possible – a common theme in our bungalow. Be sure to check out this holiday outdoor arrangement reel on Instagram, Facebook, or Tiktok!
Alright, let’s go!
First things first: If you don’t know how to do something, ask someone who does! That’s precisely how I started this project, asking our local expert so that I could give you the best “how-to” article possible. I’d love to give a HUGE shout-out to Jacqueline Williams of Just a Girl in her Garden, a local greenhouse and flower shop. She took the time out of her busy holiday schedule to give me a course on how to create a long-lasting and gorgeous arrangement for our cold Saskatchewan winters. Check out Just a Girl in Her Garden’s webpage here.
Select you greens: I used three main foliage types for the arrangements (photographed above in order): Pine, Cedar, and Fir. Using different kinds of foliage gives the arrangement different colours, textures, and dimensions. I purchased an equal amount of each of these varieties, and I recommend you source your foliage from your local greenhouse to ensure the quality of the product. If you already have a garden full of these greens, you can also just cut off your own!
For accents, I used Oregonia, birch poles, and Ilex berries. These are more of an investment; however, you only need a few of them, and they add so much flair and personality to your arrangement. Later in this article, I’ll also show you the curly willow that is incorporated into the final design.
Select you soil, pot, and decide on a layout: There are many options that can be used as a basis for the arrangement. Some prefer sand, and some prefer floral foam; however, in the harsh Saskatchewan climate that fluctuates regularly and sees extremely cold temperatures, our local garden expert, Jacqueline, recommended starting with the soil. I chose to use Miracle-Gro Potting Mix, which is ideal for outdoor and indoor containers. This will also help us prevent the branches from rotting and ensure we have a long-lasting holiday arrangement. This potting mix facilitates soil aeration that ensures oxygen reaches the plant branches, which is an essential factor in promoting overall arrangement health.
Your pot selection depends on the size of your arrangement and whether or not you would like to use a liner in your main pot. These three arrangements were going to be featured in our outdoor privacy wall planter, so I knew just the pot liner would work well for this project. You can also choose to build your arrangement directly into your main pot; a liner is unnecessary.
Deciding on your arrangement layout depends on how you want people to view it. Where is your arrangement going? Will it be seen by all the sides? Or will it only be seen from the front? Asking yourself these questions will determine how you build your design. For my vintage holiday arrangements, I knew there would be a backside that would rest against the privacy wall in our backyard. Instead of a “mound” style that is beautiful from all angles, I went for a forward-facing arrangement that will be primarily viewed from the front. Knowing my design direction, the back of my arrangement didn’t have to look good, and I could create height at the back of the pot instead of the middle. Tip: Explore Pinterest for inspiration before beginning.
Start with the poles: Start with your birch poles. I used three as I like an odd number, but you can use as many as you like! This creates a central focus for your arrangement, and you can start building the rest from there. Stagger the poles to create different heights and vary the angles at which they are added to the pot. Remember, if you are building a mound arrangement (an arrangement that will be viewed from all angles), you will want to place these in the center. However, these were placed more toward the back because I am building a forward-facing arrangement.
Add the greens: One of the biggest things I learned from my class at Just a Girl in Her Garden was to make sure that you take off the lower branches, needles, and leaves from the base of your foliage to ensure that the plant does not rot within the soil. Before placing it in the pot, ensure the bottom 3-4 inches are clear of all needles, leaves, and branches. Some you can remove with your hands, and others can use either tin snips, floral sheers, diagonal cutters, or needle nose clippers.
Add the accents: Take into consideration what you want in the center of your arrangement. I knew that I wanted the vintage Santa, reindeer, and snowman as my focal point, so I included parts of the shorter greenery facing downwards in the front to create a resting spot for these elements. After putting all the fir, pine, and cedar in place, I added some curly willow, glitter branches and pine cones. To attach your accent items and focal point items, use floral wire and wrap the wire around the item you would like to secure, and then anchor the wire to a birch pole, or another strong point of your foliage. This keeps everything secure and in place.
Add the lighting: Next, I added the Ilex berries, jumbo-size Christmas lights and fairy lights. The lights do make all the difference! These fairy lights were battery operated, but I recommend getting plug-in lighting or solar lighting that you can set to come on when it gets dark out at night – it’s just less hassle.
Water your arrangement: After completing all these steps, ensure you water your arrangement well; however, do not overwater. If you accidentally put too much water in the soil (like I did), drain it out before putting it outside to freeze. If you fail to do this and have too much water in the pot, the plastic can burst open with the expansion of the frozen water! Remember, if temperatures go above zero, you must water these arrangements often! They do drink quite a bit. If temperatures stay below zero, they should remain lovely, lush, and green, and you won’t have to worry about watering.
Honestly, I was pretty worried about messing up before I started making these! As it would turn out, you really can’t mess up! Have fun with it, get creative and add finishing touches that make your arrangement represent what makes you happy and brings you joy. I went for an over-the-top, vintage, quirky Christmas, and I’m so glad I did. I hope you guys enjoyed this tutorial! Happy Holidays from my family to yours! – Shavonne
Follow Shavonne on Instagram and TikTok
We have some spook-tacular Halloween crafts that are sure to haunt your home with fun and festivity! Whether you’re aiming to add a ghostly charm to your indoor plants with a Ghost Vase or a chilling ambiance to your front porch with Creepy Planters, each project is a blend of creativity and delight. Perfect for all ages, these crafts invite you to embrace the playful spirit of Halloween. So, gather your supplies, summon your imagination, and let the Halloween crafting commence!
Directions
Directions
Directions
Directions
Not only will you end up with a chic, eco-friendly storage solution, but you’ll also get the satisfaction of creating something beautiful. Perfect for beginners and craft enthusiasts alike, this project promises to add a touch of handmade charm to your kitchen or pantry.
Cut macrame yarn into 8 pieces measuring about 120” long. You can tape the ends of the yarn to avoid the yarn from fraying.
Gather the 8 pieces cords and find the center. Create the handle by making a vertical row of Square Knots. Tie the Square Knots with 4 cords grouped together in the middle, 2 cords on the left, and 2 cords on the right. Make 18 vertical Square Knots to make the handle.
Tape the handle to the top of a slender water bottle. This can help to make a form for the bag’s shape. Then take two cords from each handle and tied them together in a Square Knot. Make sure you don’t space out the rows too much, keep them as close and as tights as possible.
After the rows of Square Knots reach the bottom of the water bottle, un-tape the handle and gently pull the bag up. Re-tape and continue making more Square Knots. Do this until you reach your desired length of the bag.
When finished weaving the body, make a Wrapping Knot. Trim the tassel to your desired length and fray. Start filling your produce bag with veggies or fruit of your choosing!
Show your appreciation for MOM by using your imagination and customize with your favourite shapes or colours!
Tools:
Materials:
Begin your project by tearing the coloured paper into confetti-sized pieces.
Submerge the shredded paper in water in a bowl. Allow it to soak for up to 20 minutes.
After soaking, remove the paper from the water and transfer it into the blender. Blend it until you achieve a fine, wet pulp consistency.
Squeeze out any extra moisture from the paper so it’s not dripping wet.
Press the paper halfway into your mould.
Delicately sprinkle the seeds on the paper, then cover them with another layer, filling the mould to the brim.
Patience is a virtue as you wait for the seed bombs to dry in the mould. This will take approximately 2 to 3 days.
Once fully dry, remove your seed bombs from the mould with care.
Voilà! Now you have a handful of flower-shaped seed bombs, ready to sprout into life or as a heartwarming present for Mom. The perfect gift, with love and growth wrapped into one.
Share your seed bombs using #PlantProject or tag us @plantprojectcanada and join our community.
Hoya blooms only last a few weeks, which makes it feel extra special when it does happen. If you’re having a hard time making those cute little star-shaped flowers appear, these tips will help set you up for success.
Letting the plant’s soil dry out between waterings puts a little stress on it to survive, which in turn encourages it to put out new flowers to try to ensure its survival. Rather than relying on a watering schedule to tell you when to give your hoyas a drink, touch the plant and soil. If you squeeze a leaf between your fingers and it’s squishy, time to water; if it’s firm, wait a couple days and check again. If you stick a finger in the soil and it feels dry to the touch, it’s time to water; if it feels damp, wait a few days as well.
Not only are hoyas hardy plants, but hoyas are also tropicals, so they thrive in bright light. My hoyas that flower most frequently get a few hours of direct sunlight each day, and bright indirect light the rest of the day. In my experience it’s hard to give these plants too much light – if exposed to 6+ hours of direct light a day, they may even start to show the pretty patterns typical of a sun-stressed plant.
If you want a plant to put out new growth or blooms, it needs the nutrients to do so. Although you can of course use a tropical plant food the next time you water your hoya, I’ve had great luck fertilizing mine with the Miracle-Gro Ready-to-Use Orchid Plant Food Mist. Like orchids, hoyas are epiphytes. In the wild, epiphytic plants grow not in soil, but attached to other plants, and absorb water and nutrients from the air. Spraying plant food on in the form of a mist allows a hoya’s leaves to absorb those nutrients the same way they would in the wild.
Snapdragons are a beloved choice for cottage gardens and perennial flower beds, adding charm and beauty to any landscape. These flowers possess a unique charm with their dragon-like flower heads and a stunning range of colours including white, yellow, pink, orange, and purple.
Tall snapdragons, Dwarf snapdragons, Twining snapdragons (climbing snapdragons), and Angelonia snapdragons.
For best blooming results, make sure they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Snapdragons are somewhat drought-tolerant and prefer a good drink followed by a period of dryness.
While Snapdragons are safe for humans they can lead to an upset stomach for furry friends.
Snapdragons come in different sizes depending on the variation. On average, they grow between 1 and 3 feet tall. Dwarf varieties only reach up to 10 inches, while larger species can reach 4 feet.
Snapdragons like to have a bit of personal space. Make sure to leave about 6 to 12 inches between each plant to provide ample space for them to expand and thrive. Plus, it can actually help prevent the spread of diseases. These aren’t wallflowers—they like a little room to show off their vibrant blooms!
The name ‘Snapdragon’ comes from an old superstition that says if you hold the flower by the stem and squeeze it, its mouth will “snap” open and close. They may not actually snap at you, but it’s still a fun way to engage with these beautiful plants! So don’t be afraid to give them a gentle squeeze and watch their petals snap.
Snapdragons thrive in nutrient-rich, well-draining soil like Miracle-Gro® Moisture Control® Garden Soil. For outdoor planting, choose a sunny spot with ample spacing of 6 to 12 inches. In containers, use a pot that is at least 12 inches deep and wide, providing the roots with enough space to expand and thrive. Also, make sure the pot has good drainage to keep those roots from getting waterlogged.
Snapdragons are versatile plants that effortlessly blend into any garden. They complement summer blooms like petunias, lavender, and sunflowers, as well as aromatic herbs like rosemary and sage.
Different varieties of snapdragons have single, double, or frilly petals and come in many vibrant colours. The most common variations are tall snapdragons that feature flowers with broad petals on strong stems, dwarf snapdragons that boast delicate blooms in an array of colours on short stems, and double snapdragons which feature multiple rows of ruffled petals.
Snapdragons generally are resistant to pests, but it’s important to keep an eye out for aphids and thrips. If you happen to spot any of these pests, it’s recommended to employ natural methods such as using an insecticidal soap like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap or rinsing the foliage thoroughly with a forceful stream of water to dislodge any potential invaders.
Insufficient sunlight exposure or subpar fertility conditions. To ensure your Snapdragons thrive, ensure your plants receive a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. To improve soil fertility, you can enhance it by incorporating a nutrient boost like Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food. This will enrich the environment for your plants and promote their growth. Also, to encourage the formation of new buds, try deadheading to clear up any withered blossoms.
Fungal disease. This tends to appear in warm and humid climates. To prevent and treat this condition, ensure adequate air circulation between plants by leaving sufficient space when planting, avoid wetting the foliage during watering sessions, and use fungicides if necessary.
Over watering or under watering. Excess moisture can result in root rot, hindering your flowers’ ability to absorb essential nutrients. Conversely, a lack of moisture can cause your flowers to dry out or wither. To ensure optimal growth, carefully assess soil moisture levels and adjust watering practices accordingly.
Insufficient sunlight. To address this, try moving the plant to a spot that ensures 6 hours of sunlight. Additionally, consider pruning the leggy stems and using supports such as stakes or trellises to help the stalks stand tall.
log in to join the plant chat!
join our passionate plant community and gro your garden!
By registering, I am allowing Scotts Canada Ltd. to contact me with news, articles and promotions. I understand that I can withdraw my consent at any time.
