Tools:
- Blender
Materials:
- 1 packet of your chosen seeds
- 1 sheet of your favourite coloured paper
- 1 silicone mould in the form of flowers or any design you fancy
These delightful DIY flower-shaped seed bombs are an ideal gift for Mother’s Day.
Show your appreciation for MOM by using your imagination and customize with your favourite shapes or colours!
step 1.
Begin your project by tearing the coloured paper into confetti-sized pieces.
step 2.
Submerge the shredded paper in water in a bowl. Allow it to soak for up to 20 minutes.
step 3.
After soaking, remove the paper from the water and transfer it into the blender. Blend it until you achieve a fine, wet pulp consistency.
step 4.
Squeeze out any extra moisture from the paper so it’s not dripping wet.
step 5.
Press the paper halfway into your mould.
step 6.
Delicately sprinkle the seeds on the paper, then cover them with another layer, filling the mould to the brim.
step 7.
Patience is a virtue as you wait for the seed bombs to dry in the mould. This will take approximately 2 to 3 days.
step 8
Once fully dry, remove your seed bombs from the mould with care.
Voilà! Now you have a handful of flower-shaped seed bombs, ready to sprout into life or as a heartwarming present for Mom. The perfect gift, with love and growth wrapped into one.
Share your seed bombs using #PlantProject or tag us @plantprojectcanada and join our community.
#happycreating!
Whether you’re new to the world of hoyas or a hardcore hoya collector, getting these gorgeous plants to bloom can be such a rewarding experience.
Hoya blooms only last a few weeks, which makes it feel extra special when it does happen. If you’re having a hard time making those cute little star-shaped flowers appear, these tips will help set you up for success.
don’t overwater!
Letting the plant’s soil dry out between waterings puts a little stress on it to survive, which in turn encourages it to put out new flowers to try to ensure its survival. Rather than relying on a watering schedule to tell you when to give your hoyas a drink, touch the plant and soil. If you squeeze a leaf between your fingers and it’s squishy, time to water; if it’s firm, wait a couple days and check again. If you stick a finger in the soil and it feels dry to the touch, it’s time to water; if it feels damp, wait a few days as well.
make sure your hoya gets lots of light – like, LOTS of light.
Not only are hoyas hardy plants, but hoyas are also tropicals, so they thrive in bright light. My hoyas that flower most frequently get a few hours of direct sunlight each day, and bright indirect light the rest of the day. In my experience it’s hard to give these plants too much light – if exposed to 6+ hours of direct light a day, they may even start to show the pretty patterns typical of a sun-stressed plant.
feed me, see more…flowers!
If you want a plant to put out new growth or blooms, it needs the nutrients to do so. Although you can of course use a tropical plant food the next time you water your hoya, I’ve had great luck fertilizing mine with the Miracle-Gro Ready-to-Use Orchid Plant Food Mist. Like orchids, hoyas are epiphytes. In the wild, epiphytic plants grow not in soil, but attached to other plants, and absorb water and nutrients from the air. Spraying plant food on in the form of a mist allows a hoya’s leaves to absorb those nutrients the same way they would in the wild.
#easypeasy
snapdragons
aka antirrhinums, dragon flowers, and dog flowers
Snapdragons are a beloved choice for cottage gardens and perennial flower beds, adding charm and beauty to any landscape. These flowers possess a unique charm with their dragon-like flower heads and a stunning range of colours including white, yellow, pink, orange, and purple.
variations
Tall snapdragons, Dwarf snapdragons, Twining snapdragons (climbing snapdragons), and Angelonia snapdragons.
light
full sun
For best blooming results, make sure they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily.
water + feeding
thirsty
Snapdragons are somewhat drought-tolerant and prefer a good drink followed by a period of dryness.
toxic
yes
While Snapdragons are safe for humans they can lead to an upset stomach for furry friends.
size
it depends
Snapdragons come in different sizes depending on the variation. On average, they grow between 1 and 3 feet tall. Dwarf varieties only reach up to 10 inches, while larger species can reach 4 feet.
pro tip
give them room to bloom
Snapdragons like to have a bit of personal space. Make sure to leave about 6 to 12 inches between each plant to provide ample space for them to expand and thrive. Plus, it can actually help prevent the spread of diseases. These aren’t wallflowers—they like a little room to show off their vibrant blooms!
fun fact
snap it open!
The name ‘Snapdragon’ comes from an old superstition that says if you hold the flower by the stem and squeeze it, its mouth will “snap” open and close. They may not actually snap at you, but it’s still a fun way to engage with these beautiful plants! So don’t be afraid to give them a gentle squeeze and watch their petals snap.
beyond the basics
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soil and potting
Snapdragons thrive in nutrient-rich, well-draining soil like Miracle-Gro® Moisture Control® Garden Soil. For outdoor planting, choose a sunny spot with ample spacing of 6 to 12 inches. In containers, use a pot that is at least 12 inches deep and wide, providing the roots with enough space to expand and thrive. Also, make sure the pot has good drainage to keep those roots from getting waterlogged.
-
companion planting
Snapdragons are versatile plants that effortlessly blend into any garden. They complement summer blooms like petunias, lavender, and sunflowers, as well as aromatic herbs like rosemary and sage.
-
blooms
Different varieties of snapdragons have single, double, or frilly petals and come in many vibrant colours. The most common variations are tall snapdragons that feature flowers with broad petals on strong stems, dwarf snapdragons that boast delicate blooms in an array of colours on short stems, and double snapdragons which feature multiple rows of ruffled petals.
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pest control
Snapdragons generally are resistant to pests, but it’s important to keep an eye out for aphids and thrips. If you happen to spot any of these pests, it’s recommended to employ natural methods such as using an insecticidal soap like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap or rinsing the foliage thoroughly with a forceful stream of water to dislodge any potential invaders.
troubleshooting
-
why aren’t my snapdragons blooming enough?
Insufficient sunlight exposure or subpar fertility conditions. To ensure your Snapdragons thrive, ensure your plants receive a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. To improve soil fertility, you can enhance it by incorporating a nutrient boost like Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food. This will enrich the environment for your plants and promote their growth. Also, to encourage the formation of new buds, try deadheading to clear up any withered blossoms.
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why are my snapdragon’s leaves powdery?
Fungal disease. This tends to appear in warm and humid climates. To prevent and treat this condition, ensure adequate air circulation between plants by leaving sufficient space when planting, avoid wetting the foliage during watering sessions, and use fungicides if necessary.
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why does it look like my snapdragons are wilting?
Over watering or under watering. Excess moisture can result in root rot, hindering your flowers’ ability to absorb essential nutrients. Conversely, a lack of moisture can cause your flowers to dry out or wither. To ensure optimal growth, carefully assess soil moisture levels and adjust watering practices accordingly.
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why are my snapdragons falling over?
Insufficient sunlight. To address this, try moving the plant to a spot that ensures 6 hours of sunlight. Additionally, consider pruning the leggy stems and using supports such as stakes or trellises to help the stalks stand tall.
This plant’s been in the same soil since I got it years ago and is due for a repot. Although it hasn’t outgrown its pot, the soil is extremely dry and no longer retains the moisture the plant needs. So here’s how to repot a plant while changing out most of its soil!
here’s what you need to get started:
- your plant
- a nursery pot
- a quality potting mix (this ficus elastica is a tropical plant, so I’m using Miracle-Gro Tropical Potting Mix)
- a potting mat or tarp (optional)
- a shovel or soil scoop (optional)
step one.
The first step is to gently coax the plant out of its pot. I did this by laying to pot on its side and gently squeezing and rolling the soft plastic of the nursery pot. Then pull the plant out of the pot.
step two.
Using your fingers, begin to gently remove some of the old soil from the root ball.
Plants don’t particularly like having their roots disturbed (think about it: how often does someone come along and dig a plant up to tear apart its roots in the wild?) and being too rough can cause damage which can lead to root rot. You do want to remove some soil, though, so the roots can access the nutrients in the fresh new soil.
TLDR, gently remove as much soil as possible while doing as little damage to the roots as possible.
step three.
Grab the pot you’re planning to pot the plant in. The rule of thumb is to choose a pot that’s ~2 inches bigger than the root ball. (I decided to plant mine back in the original pot, as it was still an appropriate size, it was just the soil that needed changing.) Fill the bottom of the pot with a couple inches of soil. Then place your plant in and fill the sides and top with soil!
step four.
I like to wait a week or so after repotting before watering the plant. That way, hopefully, any root damage should form a callus and avoid root rot with the additional moisture.
#easypeasy
mint
aka mentha
Mint is an easy, fast-growing herb that is used in drink and food recipes. It is a perennial herb that grows little white and purple flowers. There are over 30 different variations of mint, but the most commonly grown is spearmint and peppermint.
variations
Apple/Pineapple Mint, Corsican Mint, Pennyroyal, Peppermint, Citrus Mint, Spearmint
light
full sun
If the soil is nice and moist, full sun is okay. Mint can also thrive in partial shade.
water + feeding
thirsty
Should be watered at least twice a week.
toxic
no
This plant is safe for animals to nibble on.
size
small to medium
Mint can grow to between 1 – 2 feet tall.
pro tip
An effective remedy for headaches
If you are prone to tension headaches, you can make a compress out of mint leaves for your forehead or rub peppermint oil on your temples.
fun fact
Ancient origins
Mint was used in ancient Greece, Rome, and Egypt
beyond the basics
-
soil + potting
Mint does not need to be fussed over which makes it perfect for first-time gardeners. When planting your mint consider using a well-draining soil that can help with moisture control, like Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Garden Soil. This soil helps to prevent from over- and under-watering your mint plant.
-
companion planting:
Luckily, mint is an easy herb to find companion plants for. You can take your pick of popular home garden veggies such as: carrots, cabbage, kale, tomatoes, bell peppers, beans and even zucchini.
-
harvesting
Frequent harvesting is important to keeping your mint flourishing. Young leaves have more flavour than older leaves. With this in mind, you can start harvesting your mint as soon as it comes up this spring.
-
pest control
If you see your mint plant drooping, there might be a pest problem. Common pests you might see with mint plants are aphids, mealy bugs, spider mites, or flea beetles. If you are seeing curling leaves or holes in your leaves, these are tell-tale signs of pests. Don’t worry, there is an easy fix. You can use a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap Ready-To-Use to safely and quickly get rid of those little nuisances.
troubleshooting
-
What do I do with my mint once I harvest it?
You’ve got options.
Once you pick a few sprigs from your mint plant, you can keep them in water for a few days. It is best to use your mint while it is fresh, about 3-5 days. If you are looking to dry your mint leaves, cut them right before flowering and let the leave air dry. Once dry, store the dried mint in an air-tight container.
Or you can just pick the leaves from your mint plant as you need them.
-
Why is my mint looking leggy?
More sunlight. Most of the time, if your mint plant is looking thin and leggy it is lacking sunlight or water or nutrients. The best way to prevent mint from getting leggy is to make sure it is growing in a warm spot that gets lots of light. Keep it in a big pot with well-draining and nutrient rich soil.
-
Why is my mint turning crispy and brown?
Under-watering. This is easy to fix. Try watering your mint on a schedule, aiming for once or twice a week. Be sure to water under the leaves and close to the soil so you don’t damage the leaves.
-
How do I know if my mint is healthy?
Healthy, ready to use mint is a deep, rich green. If your mint is yellow and falling, it is likely due to its growing conditions. Keep your mint plant in full or partial sun, with a well-draining potting mix like Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Garden Soil. Make sure you water your mint whenever the top of the soil is dry, usually about twice a week.
Tired of plain-jane plant labels in your veggie garden? These illustrated plant markers are a fun way to add some colour and pizazz to your garden before your plants ever start to flower and bear fruit!
here’s what you need to get started:
- wooden plant markers ( possible alternatives: wooden spoons or paint stirring sticks)
- paint brushes
- acrylic paints (suggested: red, yellow, blue, green, black, white)
- pencil & eraser
- matte or gloss sealing spray
- plate or paint palette
- paint markers (optional)
- paper towel or cloth
- water
step one.
Using pencil, sketch out the basic shapes of the type of plant you want to label: an elongated oval for peppers, rounded triangles for strawberries, circles for tomatoes, and so on. Write out the name of the plant in pencil as well. Use your best handwriting or get creative with different writing styles!
step two.
Pour your desired paint colours onto your plate or palette. Use the colours you have to mix up any colours you’re missing: red and blue make purple, blue and yellow make green, and so on. You can also a tiny amount of black or white to your mixtures to darken or lighten them respectively.
step three.
Time to start painting! Choose a dark or light solid colour for the plant name, depending on the background you’re painting on. To paint the fruits, veggies, and flower illustrations begin with a solid base layer of paint and gradually add in additional layers for opacity and details. A white highlight on a pepper or various shades of red on a tomato go a long way to making your illustrations really pop!
step four.
Let paint dry thoroughly – ideally overnight – before erasing any stray pencil marks. Finish by spraying with sealing spray to preserve your designs through those summer rainstorms.
#easypeasy
There’s something magical about terrariums. They take up so little space, and yet, house an entire ecosystem within them. If you’re reading this article, you’ve likely seen countless Pinterest boards of beautiful, tiny terrarium creations made to resemble small towns, wild forests, or other stunning locales.
But while terrarium inspo-pics are fun to look at, they can also spark that dreaded impostor syndrome within us. The thought of “can I really make something like this?” holds so many of us back from even attempting to start.
The truth is: terrariums are much simpler to create than most people think! All you need are a few base ingredients to start, and the courage to get creative.
ready to make your own world within a glass jar?
Here’s what you’ll need:
- A good potting mix (for this project we recommend Miracle-Gro® Cactus, Palm and Succulent Potting Mix)
- Activated Charcoal
- Your choice of terrarium-friendly plants: like succulents, air plants or miniature cacti
- Pebbles for drainage
- A spray bottle for watering
- Battery operated mini string lights
- A glass container for your terrarium plants
- Decorative or polished stones
- Crystals, small gnomes, or other mini decorations you want to add
step 1: choose your terrarium “home”
Avant de commencer, réfléchissez au style de votre terrarium et au type de plantes que vous souhaitez y placer.
Les réponses à ces questions détermineront si vous devez opter pour un terrarium ouvert ou fermé.
Si vous souhaitez avoir des plantes tropicales qui se développent dans des conditions humides, un terrarium fermé est idéal. En revanche, si vous optez pour des petits cactus ou des plantes grasses, un terrarium ouvert est la meilleure solution.
step 2: build your base
Got your perfect terrarium container? Great! Now, the real fun begins.
Start by adding a 1-1.5 inch layer of pebbles, followed by a thin layer of charcoal. The pebbles act as drainage holes, while the charcoal helps reduce the amount of bad bacteria that might start developing as your plants grow.
Once you’re done, add about 2.5 inches of your potting mix. Make sure you have enough soil for your plants’ roots to fit.
step 3: add your plants
Remove your plants from their original pot. Gently massage their roots to get rid of excess soil, and create small holes in your terrarium for your plant roots before carefully placing them inside.
We recommend starting with the bigger plants
step 4: have fun with it!
Now comes the best part – decorating your terrarium.
You can add polished stones, crystals, small figurines, or any other miniature decorations to make your terrarium unique to you.
Bring out your inner child, and don’t hold back!
step 5: light it up
Carefully weave your string lights into your terrarium, making sure that they’re not getting in the way of your plants. Place your battery pack somewhere easily accessible.
Once you’re all done, turn on the lights – and watch your terrarium come to life.
Not only do string lights add a touch of mythical beauty to your creation, they also provide much needed artificial lighting to the plants inside.
step 6: feed your ecosystem
Terrariums need very little upkeep to stay alive and thriving. But the amount of water they require depends on the type of terrarium you have.
Water evaporates faster in open terrariums, so they typically require a few sprays of it every couple weeks. Closed terrariums, however, retain water for much longer, so you only need to water them about twice a year.
Congratulations – you’ve officially created your own little ecosystem! Enjoy watching and documenting the growth that happens within your terrarium, all while fielding countless compliments from your friends and family.
#happycreating!
your go-to guide to seed starting for late starters
If the idea of starting seeds just crossed your mind, or you simply didn’t have the time to tackle this project earlier in the year, do not fear!
Because yes – contrary to popular belief, you absolutely CAN start your seeds in April. It’s not too late.
Especially if you’re into delicious late bloomers, like asparagus, beets, peppers, and even catnip (your furry friends will love you forever!).
let’s get started! but first…
Check the last average frost date in your region with this helpful chart. It includes useful guides for which seeds you can start now, which seeds prefer direct over indoor sowing, and when the best time to transplant your indoor seedlings would be.
there are two ways to sow your seeds. Let’s get into them!
option 1: indoor Sowing
Indoor sowing is the process of starting your seeds indoors, and then gradually exposing and transplanting them outdoors. Almost every seed can be started using this method – but particularly long-season crops, which, as the name implies, take a longer time to grow.
here’s what you need to get started:
- Your seeds
- Miracle-Gro® Seed Starting Potting Mix
- A seed tray
- A drip tray
- A heat mat
- LED or glow lights
- A plastic seed starting cover
- Stickers for labeling
1
step 1: prepare your potting mix
Fill a large bowl with your potting mix, and add in a sprinkle of water to ensure even soil moisture.
2
step 2: prepare your seed tray
Place your seed tray inside your drip tray, and fill each cell with soil, just below the top of the cell.
3
step 3: sow your seeds
The rule of thumb with seed sowing is: plant yours two to three times as deep as they are wide. So if your seeds are tiny, you can sprinkle a few over the soil. If they’re larger, you can push a couple of them into the soil in each cell, ensuring they’re covered by a layer of it. To better understand how deep you need to place your seeds, read the packaging they come in.
4
step 4: prepare for growth!
Add labels to each seed container. Then, place your plastic cover on top of your tray, and put it on the heat mat, under your LED or glow lights. Once your seedlings start growing, gradually expose them to the outside environment. Then, mid May or June, they’ll be ready to be transplanted.
option 2: direct sowing
This method involves planting your seeds directly into your garden or outdoor space, rather than sowing them indoors first, and then transplanting. While indoor sowing gives you more control over your seeds’ environment, direct sowing allows for the development of stronger, healthier plant roots.
here’s what you need to get started:
- Your seeds
- Craft sticks for labeling
1
step 1: prepare your soil
Take the time to get your soil fully ready, by removing all the weeds, rocks, and debris. Then, loosen your soil with a garden fork, raking it until you have a level surface.
2
step 2: prepare your seeds
Depending on the type of seeds you have, you might need to manipulate them slightly before placing them in the soil. For example, some seeds need to be softened, by being soaked in water prior to planting. Others need to be scarified, by being rubbed against sandpaper to thin their hard shells. Read your seeds’ instruction packet to ensure you’re preparing them properly.
3
step 3: plant your seeds
Just like with indoor sowing, try to stick to the seed size-to-soil depth rule. The bigger the seed, the deeper you want to sow it. Tiny seeds can simply be sprinkled on top of the soil, while bigger seeds will need to be buried at a prescribed depth. But don’t stress! Seeds aren’t particularly picky, and will likely germinate regardless of soil depth.
4
step 4: moisten your soil
Never – we repeat, NEVER- let your soil dry out fully after planting your seeds. Nothing gets in the way of seed growth more than dry soil. To give your seeds the best chance for success, gently water them using a light-pressure setting on your hose, and make sure to not leave any puddles – or you risk overwatering.
5
step 5: X marks the seeds
Use your labeled craft sticks to mark where you planted your seeds. This will help you keep track of their germination, monitor their growth, and not accidentally overcrowd them with new seeds or mistaken them for weeds.
Still got questions about the seed starting process? Let our experts help, by leaving a comment in our Plant Chat!
#HappySeedStarting
It’s the most wonderful time of the year: seed starting season is upon us! Starting your own seeds is by far the most cost effective way to create a lush, bountiful veggie garden in your own backyard. Here are three different ways to start your seeds: one simple setup requiring little equipment, an intermediate setup with a Root Farm Grow Light, and an AeroGarden to really kickstart those seeds.
MiracleGro Seed Starting Potting Mix + Window
This is the simplest seed starting method. Basically requiring sunlight and soil, it is also the method that requires the least investment (sunlight is free!).
To start seeds using this method, you need:
- A sunny window to put your seeds
- Seed starting pots (can substitute for egg cartons or nursery pots)
- Seeds
- MiracleGro Seed Starting Potting Mix
- Plant labels (can use popsicle sticks)
- Permanent marker
This seed starting setup is as simple as filling the pots with MiracleGro Seed Starting Potting Mix and placing a seed in each pot. Label the future seedlings with permanent marker on plant labels or popsicle sticks and place them on a sunny windowsill. Be sure to water them every day or two to keep the soil moist.
MiracleGro Seed Starting Potting Mix + Root Farm Grow Light
Starting seeds this way takes things up a notch by adding in a grow light. Grow lights are great because they give your plants a consistent source of light, regardless of whether the weather decides to cooperate. I love the Root Farm Grow Light because it’s large enough to fit a whole tray of seeds underneath, and it keeps the seeds on the warm side as well.
To start seeds using this method, you need:
- Root Farm Grow Light
- Seed starting pots (can substitute for egg cartons or nursery pots)
- Seeds
- MiracleGro Seed Starting Potting Mix
- Plant labels (can use popsicle sticks)
- Permanent marker
This seed starting setup is similar to the previous one. Begin by filling the pots with MiracleGro Seed Starting Potting Mix and placing a seed in each pot. Label your seedlings with permanent marker on plant labels or popsicle sticks. Assemble the Root Farm Grow Light and plug it in, placing it over the seeds. Water the seeds every one to two days to keep the soil moist.
Pro tip: Try plugging your Root Farm Grow Light into a smart plug. Use the app on your phone to set a schedule so you don’t have to worry about turning it on and off every day!
AeroGarden Seed Starting System
Of these three methods, the fastest way to get your seeds to germinate is, without a doubt, the AeroGarden Seed Starting System. AeroGarden is a hydroponic growing system for 5x faster growth than soil. The AeroGarden Seed Starting System is an accessory that is sold separately from the AeroGarden, and is available for the various models (be sure to choose the Seed Starting System made specifically for your AeroGarden model.)
To start seeds with the AeroGarden Seed Starting System, you’ll need:
- AeroGarden (Harvest Elite is pictured, but you can use any model)
- AeroGarden Seed Starting System accessory (Harvest Elite is pictured; choose the version made for your AeroGarden model)
- Seeds
- Water
Begin by pre-soaking the grow sponges in water. Swap the standard AeroGarden grow deck for the Seed Starting System grow deck and place one sponge in each of the holes. Place a seed in each of the grow sponges. Plug the AeroGarden in and go follow the steps to start a garden. Fill the reservoir with water and plant food (according to directions on the back of the bottle).
Pro tip: To “label” your seedlings, draw a diagram of the AeroGarden grow deck (or take a photo with a smartphone) and label each space according to which seed you planted where.
For more advice and ideas on Aerogardens, visit www.aerogarden.com.
#easypeasy
Whether you’ve run out of shelf space for your plant babies or are looking for a rental-friendly way to bring hanging plants into your life, a hanging plant stand can be a cute and functional addition to your space.
here’s how to turn a humble clothing rack into a minimalist plant stand
here’s what you need to get started:
- steel clothing rack (available at many big box stores)
- project panel/wood/plywood (to fit clothing rack)
- 4 EMT straps (sized to fit around pipes of the plant stand)
- 4 wood screws
- flat black spray paint (or colour of your choice)
- wood stain
- paintbrush
- drill or screwdriver
- sand paper
- saw
- pencil
- measuring tape
- hanging plants and pots
step one.
Measure the base of the clothing rack, where you will eventually add the bottom shelf, and note the dimensions. With a pencil and measuring tape, use those dimensions to mark the piece of wood where it will need to be cut to fit on the base.
step two.
Use a saw to cut along the guidelines you made in step one.
If you don’t have a saw (or aren’t comfortable using one), most major hardware stores will cut wood pieces down to size for you – just be sure to bring the exact dimensions you need!
step three.
Sand any cut edges on the piece of wood.rnrnTo finish the shelf, coat it with the wood stain of your choice. Skip this step for a more boho look, or paint the shelf instead for a modern farmhouse vibe.
step four.
Spray paint the clothing rack. You may need to do several thin coats to ensure full coverage, letting each coat fully dry before going in with the next.
step five.
Use four EMT straps and wood screws to attach the piece of wood to the bottom shelf area of the clothing rack.
step six.
The final step – and my favourite one! – is to style your plants on your new plant stand. Place larger plants or plant care supplies on the lower shelf, and smaller hanging plants in macrame hangers from the top bar. Vary pot and basket choice to really express your style and help your new plant stand fit in with your space!
