Snapdragons thrive in nutrient-rich, well-draining soil like Miracle-Gro® Moisture Control® Garden Soil. For outdoor planting, choose a sunny spot with ample spacing of 6 to 12 inches. In containers, use a pot that is at least 12 inches deep and wide, providing the roots with enough space to expand and thrive. Also, make sure the pot has good drainage to keep those roots from getting waterlogged.

 Snapdragons are versatile plants that effortlessly blend into any garden. They complement summer blooms like petunias, lavender, and sunflowers, as well as aromatic herbs like rosemary and sage.

Different varieties of snapdragons have single, double, or frilly petals and come in many vibrant colours. The most common variations are tall snapdragons that feature flowers with broad petals on strong stems, dwarf snapdragons that boast delicate blooms in an array of colours on short stems, and double snapdragons which feature multiple rows of ruffled petals.

Snapdragons generally are resistant to pests, but it’s important to keep an eye out for aphids and thrips. If you happen to spot any of these pests, it’s recommended to employ natural methods such as using an insecticidal soap like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap or rinsing the foliage thoroughly with a forceful stream of water to dislodge any potential invaders.

Insufficient sunlight exposure or subpar fertility conditions. To ensure your Snapdragons thrive, ensure your plants receive a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. To improve soil fertility, you can enhance it by incorporating a nutrient boost like Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food. This will enrich the environment for your plants and promote their growth. Also, to encourage the formation of new buds, try deadheading to clear up any withered blossoms.

Fungal disease. This tends to appear in warm and humid climates. To prevent and treat this condition, ensure adequate air circulation between plants by leaving sufficient space when planting, avoid wetting the foliage during watering sessions, and use fungicides if necessary.

Over watering or under watering. Excess moisture can result in root rot, hindering your flowers’ ability to absorb essential nutrients. Conversely, a lack of moisture can cause your flowers to dry out or wither. To ensure optimal growth, carefully assess soil moisture levels and adjust watering practices accordingly.

Insufficient sunlight. To address this, try moving the plant to a spot that ensures 6 hours of sunlight. Additionally, consider pruning the leggy stems and using supports such as stakes or trellises to help the stalks stand tall.

All begonias like evenly moist, well-draining soil with some added organic matter. Plant wax begonia transplants 6 to 8 inches apart and others according to their mature size. Tubers can be started indoors by placing the tubers, hollow side up, 1 inch apart in a shallow tray with moist potting mix. Place the tray in a dark room and water just enough to keep the potting mix moist, but not soggy. Tubers should sprout in about 4 weeks and be moved to an area with bright light once the sprouts are about an inch tall. Only plant outdoors when there is no longer a threat of frost.

Begonias look great planted together, or with cascading annuals like alyssum and lobelia. Try pairing them with Hosta or Bergenia in shade gardens.  

When cutting back rhizomatous or wax types, make a clean, angled cut just above a leaf or flower node. To encourage fuller growth, younger plants (under 3 years) can be cut back to one or two nodes above the soil. Plants that are older should only be pruned lightly. 

For cane begonias, pinch the tops when plants are about 6 inches tall to encourage bushier growth. Cut any canes that are much taller than the rest of the plant back to the soil. Remove old, brown, bare, or dead canes to the soil. Younger plants can be cut back by about 1/2. 

 Rex begonias require little pruning. Pinch back young plants to encourage fuller growth, and remove any leggy or bare stems as needed. 

 For all types, cut off spent begonia flowers about 1/2-inch below the flower to keep plants clean and healthy, as well as promote more blooms. 

Susceptible to powdery mildew, mealybugs, spider mites, thrips, and whitefly. Stem rot and rhizome rot can be caused by overwatering and soggy soil. 

Blooms may be damaged by improper watering. Your Begonia’s flowers are likely getting brown or transparent blotches where water drops have soaked through the petal. To prevent this, shield your petals when watering or be sure to hold the hose close to the soil versus above the plant.  

This is mildew caused by a fungus that lives on the surface of your plant. Mildew will coat your Begonias in a white or gray powdery mold. Mildew will cause your Begonia’s leaves to discolour and drop off. To avoid this, be sure to allow adequate space between plants and collect any debris that falls around the base of the plant. Be sure not to overwater your plant! 

Could be caused by either over or under watering your plant, especially if they dry out completely between watering. Although tuberous begonias do best when the soil surface dries out slightly between waterings, try not to let them dry out completely. A sudden temperature change from hot to cold could also cause buds to drop off.  

Could be a result of a fungal disease that often results from poor ventilation, insufficient light or high humidity. Remove those faded flowers and be sure that your Begonias are planted in a well-ventilated area that receives adequate light, versus in a shady area. If the growing season is especially humid, gray mold may appear despite precautions. In such a case, destroy infected plant parts, and spray buds and blooms with flowable sulfur fungicide every 3 to 5 days. 

All begonias like evenly moist, well-draining soil with some added organic matter. Plant wax begonia transplants 6 to 8 inches apart and others according to their mature size. Tubers can be started indoors by placing the tubers, hollow side up, 1 inch apart in a shallow tray with moist potting mix. Place the tray in a dark room and water just enough to keep the potting mix moist, but not soggy. Tubers should sprout in about 4 weeks and be moved to an area with bright light once the sprouts are about an inch tall. Only plant outdoors when there is no longer a threat of frost.

Begonias look great planted together, or with cascading annuals like alyssum and lobelia. Try pairing them with Hosta or Bergenia in shade gardens.  

When cutting back rhizomatous or wax types, make a clean, angled cut just above a leaf or flower node. To encourage fuller growth, younger plants (under 3 years) can be cut back to one or two nodes above the soil. Plants that are older should only be pruned lightly. 

For cane begonias, pinch the tops when plants are about 6 inches tall to encourage bushier growth. Cut any canes that are much taller than the rest of the plant back to the soil. Remove old, brown, bare, or dead canes to the soil. Younger plants can be cut back by about 1/2. 

 Rex begonias require little pruning. Pinch back young plants to encourage fuller growth, and remove any leggy or bare stems as needed. 

 For all types, cut off spent begonia flowers about 1/2-inch below the flower to keep plants clean and healthy, as well as promote more blooms. 

Susceptible to powdery mildew, mealybugs, spider mites, thrips, and whitefly. Stem rot and rhizome rot can be caused by overwatering and soggy soil. 

Blooms may be damaged by improper watering. Your Begonia’s flowers are likely getting brown or transparent blotches where water drops have soaked through the petal. To prevent this, shield your petals when watering or be sure to hold the hose close to the soil versus above the plant.  

This is mildew caused by a fungus that lives on the surface of your plant. Mildew will coat your Begonias in a white or gray powdery mold. Mildew will cause your Begonia’s leaves to discolour and drop off. To avoid this, be sure to allow adequate space between plants and collect any debris that falls around the base of the plant. Be sure not to overwater your plant! 

Could be caused by either over or under watering your plant, especially if they dry out completely between watering. Although tuberous begonias do best when the soil surface dries out slightly between waterings, try not to let them dry out completely. A sudden temperature change from hot to cold could also cause buds to drop off.  

Could be a result of a fungal disease that often results from poor ventilation, insufficient light or high humidity. Remove those faded flowers and be sure that your Begonias are planted in a well-ventilated area that receives adequate light, versus in a shady area. If the growing season is especially humid, gray mold may appear despite precautions. In such a case, destroy infected plant parts, and spray buds and blooms with flowable sulfur fungicide every 3 to 5 days. 

All begonias like evenly moist, well-draining soil with some added organic matter. Plant wax begonia transplants 6 to 8 inches apart and others according to their mature size. Tubers can be started indoors by placing the tubers, hollow side up, 1 inch apart in a shallow tray with moist potting mix. Place the tray in a dark room and water just enough to keep the potting mix moist, but not soggy. Tubers should sprout in about 4 weeks and be moved to an area with bright light once the sprouts are about an inch tall. Only plant outdoors when there is no longer a threat of frost.

Begonias look great planted together, or with cascading annuals like alyssum and lobelia. Try pairing them with Hosta or Bergenia in shade gardens.  

When cutting back rhizomatous or wax types, make a clean, angled cut just above a leaf or flower node. To encourage fuller growth, younger plants (under 3 years) can be cut back to one or two nodes above the soil. Plants that are older should only be pruned lightly. 

For cane begonias, pinch the tops when plants are about 6 inches tall to encourage bushier growth. Cut any canes that are much taller than the rest of the plant back to the soil. Remove old, brown, bare, or dead canes to the soil. Younger plants can be cut back by about 1/2. 

 Rex begonias require little pruning. Pinch back young plants to encourage fuller growth, and remove any leggy or bare stems as needed. 

 For all types, cut off spent begonia flowers about 1/2-inch below the flower to keep plants clean and healthy, as well as promote more blooms. 

Susceptible to powdery mildew, mealybugs, spider mites, thrips, and whitefly. Stem rot and rhizome rot can be caused by overwatering and soggy soil. 

Blooms may be damaged by improper watering. Your Begonia’s flowers are likely getting brown or transparent blotches where water drops have soaked through the petal. To prevent this, shield your petals when watering or be sure to hold the hose close to the soil versus above the plant.  

This is mildew caused by a fungus that lives on the surface of your plant. Mildew will coat your Begonias in a white or gray powdery mold. Mildew will cause your Begonia’s leaves to discolour and drop off. To avoid this, be sure to allow adequate space between plants and collect any debris that falls around the base of the plant. Be sure not to overwater your plant! 

Could be caused by either over or under watering your plant, especially if they dry out completely between watering. Although tuberous begonias do best when the soil surface dries out slightly between waterings, try not to let them dry out completely. A sudden temperature change from hot to cold could also cause buds to drop off.  

Could be a result of a fungal disease that often results from poor ventilation, insufficient light or high humidity. Remove those faded flowers and be sure that your Begonias are planted in a well-ventilated area that receives adequate light, versus in a shady area. If the growing season is especially humid, gray mold may appear despite precautions. In such a case, destroy infected plant parts, and spray buds and blooms with flowable sulfur fungicide every 3 to 5 days. 

All begonias like evenly moist, well-draining soil with some added organic matter. Plant wax begonia transplants 6 to 8 inches apart and others according to their mature size. Tubers can be started indoors by placing the tubers, hollow side up, 1 inch apart in a shallow tray with moist potting mix. Place the tray in a dark room and water just enough to keep the potting mix moist, but not soggy. Tubers should sprout in about 4 weeks and be moved to an area with bright light once the sprouts are about an inch tall. Only plant outdoors when there is no longer a threat of frost.

Begonias look great planted together, or with cascading annuals like alyssum and lobelia. Try pairing them with Hosta or Bergenia in shade gardens.  

When cutting back rhizomatous or wax types, make a clean, angled cut just above a leaf or flower node. To encourage fuller growth, younger plants (under 3 years) can be cut back to one or two nodes above the soil. Plants that are older should only be pruned lightly. 

For cane begonias, pinch the tops when plants are about 6 inches tall to encourage bushier growth. Cut any canes that are much taller than the rest of the plant back to the soil. Remove old, brown, bare, or dead canes to the soil. Younger plants can be cut back by about 1/2. 

 Rex begonias require little pruning. Pinch back young plants to encourage fuller growth, and remove any leggy or bare stems as needed. 

 For all types, cut off spent begonia flowers about 1/2-inch below the flower to keep plants clean and healthy, as well as promote more blooms. 

Susceptible to powdery mildew, mealybugs, spider mites, thrips, and whitefly. Stem rot and rhizome rot can be caused by overwatering and soggy soil. 

Blooms may be damaged by improper watering. Your Begonia’s flowers are likely getting brown or transparent blotches where water drops have soaked through the petal. To prevent this, shield your petals when watering or be sure to hold the hose close to the soil versus above the plant.  

This is mildew caused by a fungus that lives on the surface of your plant. Mildew will coat your Begonias in a white or gray powdery mold. Mildew will cause your Begonia’s leaves to discolour and drop off. To avoid this, be sure to allow adequate space between plants and collect any debris that falls around the base of the plant. Be sure not to overwater your plant! 

Could be caused by either over or under watering your plant, especially if they dry out completely between watering. Although tuberous begonias do best when the soil surface dries out slightly between waterings, try not to let them dry out completely. A sudden temperature change from hot to cold could also cause buds to drop off.  

Could be a result of a fungal disease that often results from poor ventilation, insufficient light or high humidity. Remove those faded flowers and be sure that your Begonias are planted in a well-ventilated area that receives adequate light, versus in a shady area. If the growing season is especially humid, gray mold may appear despite precautions. In such a case, destroy infected plant parts, and spray buds and blooms with flowable sulfur fungicide every 3 to 5 days. 

All begonias like evenly moist, well-draining soil with some added organic matter. Plant wax begonia transplants 6 to 8 inches apart and others according to their mature size. Tubers can be started indoors by placing the tubers, hollow side up, 1 inch apart in a shallow tray with moist potting mix. Place the tray in a dark room and water just enough to keep the potting mix moist, but not soggy. Tubers should sprout in about 4 weeks and be moved to an area with bright light once the sprouts are about an inch tall. Only plant outdoors when there is no longer a threat of frost.

Begonias look great planted together, or with cascading annuals like alyssum and lobelia. Try pairing them with Hosta or Bergenia in shade gardens.  

When cutting back rhizomatous or wax types, make a clean, angled cut just above a leaf or flower node. To encourage fuller growth, younger plants (under 3 years) can be cut back to one or two nodes above the soil. Plants that are older should only be pruned lightly. 

For cane begonias, pinch the tops when plants are about 6 inches tall to encourage bushier growth. Cut any canes that are much taller than the rest of the plant back to the soil. Remove old, brown, bare, or dead canes to the soil. Younger plants can be cut back by about 1/2. 

 Rex begonias require little pruning. Pinch back young plants to encourage fuller growth, and remove any leggy or bare stems as needed. 

 For all types, cut off spent begonia flowers about 1/2-inch below the flower to keep plants clean and healthy, as well as promote more blooms. 

Susceptible to powdery mildew, mealybugs, spider mites, thrips, and whitefly. Stem rot and rhizome rot can be caused by overwatering and soggy soil. 

Blooms may be damaged by improper watering. Your Begonia’s flowers are likely getting brown or transparent blotches where water drops have soaked through the petal. To prevent this, shield your petals when watering or be sure to hold the hose close to the soil versus above the plant.  

This is mildew caused by a fungus that lives on the surface of your plant. Mildew will coat your Begonias in a white or gray powdery mold. Mildew will cause your Begonia’s leaves to discolour and drop off. To avoid this, be sure to allow adequate space between plants and collect any debris that falls around the base of the plant. Be sure not to overwater your plant! 

Could be caused by either over or under watering your plant, especially if they dry out completely between watering. Although tuberous begonias do best when the soil surface dries out slightly between waterings, try not to let them dry out completely. A sudden temperature change from hot to cold could also cause buds to drop off.  

Could be a result of a fungal disease that often results from poor ventilation, insufficient light or high humidity. Remove those faded flowers and be sure that your Begonias are planted in a well-ventilated area that receives adequate light, versus in a shady area. If the growing season is especially humid, gray mold may appear despite precautions. In such a case, destroy infected plant parts, and spray buds and blooms with flowable sulfur fungicide every 3 to 5 days. 

All begonias like evenly moist, well-draining soil with some added organic matter. Plant wax begonia transplants 6 to 8 inches apart and others according to their mature size. Tubers can be started indoors by placing the tubers, hollow side up, 1 inch apart in a shallow tray with moist potting mix. Place the tray in a dark room and water just enough to keep the potting mix moist, but not soggy. Tubers should sprout in about 4 weeks and be moved to an area with bright light once the sprouts are about an inch tall. Only plant outdoors when there is no longer a threat of frost.

Begonias look great planted together, or with cascading annuals like alyssum and lobelia. Try pairing them with Hosta or Bergenia in shade gardens.  

When cutting back rhizomatous or wax types, make a clean, angled cut just above a leaf or flower node. To encourage fuller growth, younger plants (under 3 years) can be cut back to one or two nodes above the soil. Plants that are older should only be pruned lightly. 

For cane begonias, pinch the tops when plants are about 6 inches tall to encourage bushier growth. Cut any canes that are much taller than the rest of the plant back to the soil. Remove old, brown, bare, or dead canes to the soil. Younger plants can be cut back by about 1/2. 

 Rex begonias require little pruning. Pinch back young plants to encourage fuller growth, and remove any leggy or bare stems as needed. 

 For all types, cut off spent begonia flowers about 1/2-inch below the flower to keep plants clean and healthy, as well as promote more blooms. 

Susceptible to powdery mildew, mealybugs, spider mites, thrips, and whitefly. Stem rot and rhizome rot can be caused by overwatering and soggy soil. 

Blooms may be damaged by improper watering. Your Begonia’s flowers are likely getting brown or transparent blotches where water drops have soaked through the petal. To prevent this, shield your petals when watering or be sure to hold the hose close to the soil versus above the plant.  

This is mildew caused by a fungus that lives on the surface of your plant. Mildew will coat your Begonias in a white or gray powdery mold. Mildew will cause your Begonia’s leaves to discolour and drop off. To avoid this, be sure to allow adequate space between plants and collect any debris that falls around the base of the plant. Be sure not to overwater your plant! 

Could be caused by either over or under watering your plant, especially if they dry out completely between watering. Although tuberous begonias do best when the soil surface dries out slightly between waterings, try not to let them dry out completely. A sudden temperature change from hot to cold could also cause buds to drop off.  

Could be a result of a fungal disease that often results from poor ventilation, insufficient light or high humidity. Remove those faded flowers and be sure that your Begonias are planted in a well-ventilated area that receives adequate light, versus in a shady area. If the growing season is especially humid, gray mold may appear despite precautions. In such a case, destroy infected plant parts, and spray buds and blooms with flowable sulfur fungicide every 3 to 5 days. 

These desert dwellers prefer a light, well-draining potting soil like Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm and Succulent Potting Mix. Or, use regular potting soil and add some potting sand or perlite. A layer of sand on the top will help prevent rot. Ensure the pot has good drainage and aloe should never sit in water. Empty drainage trays if you see water collecting. 

Repot every 1 to 2 years in the Spring, especially with younger plants. Increase pot diameter by 2 inches every time. Want them to stay cute and little? You can stunt the growth by root trimming. In later years you can replace the top couple inches of soil instead of completely repotting.

Making new succulent plant babies is easy. In fact many propagate on their own. You will notice little mini versions starting grow. These “pups” can be gently separated potted as a new plant. If you’re not getting pups, remove a leaf, let it dry for a couple of days and place it on some moist soil. It should sprout roots, and voila! You have an ultra mini plant. 

Succulents don’t typically suffer from pests, but they can sometimes get bugs. Gnats are most likely. Inspect those juicy little leaves regularly. Check out our Pest control section in Plant 101 for how to identify and deal with pests on your plant! 

A couple of possibilities. Maybe too much direct summer sun. Or possibly overwatering or root damage. First, moving your plant to a still-bright but less sun-blasted spot. Reduce the watering and follow our watering instructions above. If your succulent buddy still doesn’t bounce back, check for root damage.  

Almost certainly too much water. This problem is no big deal if you catch it early. First, stop watering! Let’s dry out that soil. Check your pot’s drainage. Does it have a hole that allows excess water to escape? Help things dry by poking holes in the soil. This will get oxygen to the roots. You can also put the pot (with drainage holes) in a tray that’s lined with a layer of dry soil. It acts like a sponge to draw out extra moisture. Now, let’s check for root rot. Dig down and cut out any that look affected. If things are really bad, consider repotting entirely with new soil. Moving forward, water only when the soil is totally dry and make sure you water the soil, not the leaves. Water can collect between the leaves at its base, and start to rot. A thin layer of sand on top of the soil can reduce pooling water up top. 

For more information check out our Plant 101 section. 

Not enough light and/or overwatering. If the whole plant has yellowed or gone pale, it definitely needs more light. Move your friend to a brighter spot and resist the urge to overwater. Let the top two inches of soil get dry before watering again. 

Your plant needs a drink. Underwatering a succulent is hard to do, but it does happen. Give small amounts of water for three days in a row. Make sure you do this at soil level, not poured on the leaves. This is the ONE TIME it’s okay to do a little misting. A little does a lot. Resist the urge to water all at once! Your friend will plump up in a few days. 

Not enough light. It takes a lot of bright (mostly indirect) light to get succulents growing. If you’re not noticing any growth, or the new growth looks pale, it’s time to move to brighter spot. You may need slightly more frequent watering after the move. Note, succulents grow in slow motion at the best of times, so a little patience goes a long way.

All begonias like evenly moist, well-draining soil with some added organic matter. Plant wax begonia transplants 6 to 8 inches apart and others according to their mature size. Tubers can be started indoors by placing the tubers, hollow side up, 1 inch apart in a shallow tray with moist potting mix. Place the tray in a dark room and water just enough to keep the potting mix moist, but not soggy. Tubers should sprout in about 4 weeks and be moved to an area with bright light once the sprouts are about an inch tall. Only plant outdoors when there is no longer a threat of frost.

Begonias look great planted together, or with cascading annuals like alyssum and lobelia. Try pairing them with Hosta or Bergenia in shade gardens.  

When cutting back rhizomatous or wax types, make a clean, angled cut just above a leaf or flower node. To encourage fuller growth, younger plants (under 3 years) can be cut back to one or two nodes above the soil. Plants that are older should only be pruned lightly. 

For cane begonias, pinch the tops when plants are about 6 inches tall to encourage bushier growth. Cut any canes that are much taller than the rest of the plant back to the soil. Remove old, brown, bare, or dead canes to the soil. Younger plants can be cut back by about 1/2. 

 Rex begonias require little pruning. Pinch back young plants to encourage fuller growth, and remove any leggy or bare stems as needed. 

 For all types, cut off spent begonia flowers about 1/2-inch below the flower to keep plants clean and healthy, as well as promote more blooms. 

Susceptible to powdery mildew, mealybugs, spider mites, thrips, and whitefly. Stem rot and rhizome rot can be caused by overwatering and soggy soil. 

Blooms may be damaged by improper watering. Your Begonia’s flowers are likely getting brown or transparent blotches where water drops have soaked through the petal. To prevent this, shield your petals when watering or be sure to hold the hose close to the soil versus above the plant.  

This is mildew caused by a fungus that lives on the surface of your plant. Mildew will coat your Begonias in a white or gray powdery mold. Mildew will cause your Begonia’s leaves to discolour and drop off. To avoid this, be sure to allow adequate space between plants and collect any debris that falls around the base of the plant. Be sure not to overwater your plant! 

Could be caused by either over or under watering your plant, especially if they dry out completely between watering. Although tuberous begonias do best when the soil surface dries out slightly between waterings, try not to let them dry out completely. A sudden temperature change from hot to cold could also cause buds to drop off.  

Could be a result of a fungal disease that often results from poor ventilation, insufficient light or high humidity. Remove those faded flowers and be sure that your Begonias are planted in a well-ventilated area that receives adequate light, versus in a shady area. If the growing season is especially humid, gray mold may appear despite precautions. In such a case, destroy infected plant parts, and spray buds and blooms with flowable sulfur fungicide every 3 to 5 days. 

This plant likes a light, well-draining soil like Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm and Succulent Potting Mix. Or add some potting sand or perlite to regular potting soil. Your pot must have good drainage and don’t let Pilea sit in water. If you see water collecting in the drainage tray, dump it. 

Repot every 1 to 2 years in the Spring, especially with younger plants. Increase pot by 2 inches every time. If dealing with a more mature, fully grown plant you can just replace the top few inches of soil. 

So easy, because Pilea is self-propagating. It creates tiny offshoots also known as ‘pups’. You can leave them on the plant, or create a new one. Wait until your Pilea pup is at least a few inches tall. Gently dig under the pup and cut (or gently pull) the plant free, ensuring you get roots. Put the pup in some water to grow stronger roots, or plant directly in soil. You have a new mini Pilea that makes a perfect gift! 

Pileas are bug resistant, but pests are still possible. Inspect under the leaves when doing your regular dusting & cleaning. Check out our Pest control section in Plant 101 for how to identify and deal with pests on your plant! 

Light and water are incorrect. If the leaves are curled inwards, your Pilea is probably dehydrated. It’s not getting enough water, or it’s getting too much sun. On the flipside, If the leaves are curled outwards it’s probably too much water or not enough light. Check your soil before watering and ensure the top two inches of soil are dry before watering. Time between watering varies by plant and how much light they’re getting.  

Where are they yellowing? If only the bottom leaves are yellowing and dropping, there’s no problem. That’s normal Pilea behaviour. But If the whole plant is yellowing, you’re probably overwatering. When doing your watering routine, make sure the top 1 to 2 inches of soil are dry before watering. 

Rotate your plant! Pilea’s love to grow towards the sun. This can cause them to become one side heavy or grow unevenly. You should remember to turn your plant every time you water to allow the plant to grow evenly.  

Overwatering, too little time between watering. Mold (and even mushrooms) growing on your soil is not a direct threat. But it IS a sign of overwatering. Root rot can follow if not addressed. Water less frequently and make sure you let the top two inches of soil fully dry before watering. Ensure you have proper drainage. If things look really moldy, you can remove the top inch or so of soil. 

Powdery mildew. Like mold, this isn’t dangerous, but it makes your precious Pilea less pretty! So it’s got to go. Bad air circulation is usually the cause. Remove affected leaves and move your plant somewhere with better air circulation.