aka hippeastrum genus

a plant native to warm, tropical climates. There are over 1600 species in this plant family.


Ferrari’ Amaryllis, ‘Dancing Queen’ Amaryllis, ‘Mont Blanc’ Amaryllis, ‘Papillio Improved’ Amaryllis, ‘Faro’ Amaryllis, ‘Estella’ Amaryllis, ‘Athene’ White Amaryllis, ‘Double Dragon’ Amaryllis


bright, direct

Needs a sunny window to get at least 4 hours of sun daily

water + feeding

not too thirsty

Only water once the top 2 inches of soil have dried.



The bulbs are the most toxic, but blooms can also be hazardous if eaten


picky pals

Need lots of bright, direct sunlight


not too much

Amaryllis don’t need misting



Can grow up to 4 – 6 inches

pro tip

big bulbs mean lots of flowers

That’s right. We like big bulbs, and we can not lie. The bigger the bulb the more blooms you can expect. In fact, a Jumbo bulb (34/36 cm) can produce 3 stems with about 4 to 5 flowers per stem.

fun fact

It’s a look-a-like

The flowers on an amaryllis look very similar to a lily but they are not actually the same flower. They are very distant relatives!

beyond the basics

  • soil + potting

    Amaryllis needs to be planted in a light, well draining potting soil. Consider using Miracle-Gro® Indoor Potting Mix. The combination of coconut coir and perlite help control moisture and release water when your plant needs it. If you’re growing a single amaryllis bulb, you can plant it in a 6-inch pot. If you’re growing multiple bulbs (about 2 –3) use a bigger pot, closer to 10 – 12inches. As always, make sure your pot has a drain hole and be sure to leave the top 1/3 of your amaryllis bulb sticking out of the soil.

  • when to repot

    Your amaryllis won’t need to be repotted very often. In most cases, you will only need to repot your amaryllis after 3 – 4 years. It’s best to repot once your amaryllis has gone through a dormant stage, typically this means repotting in the spring.

  • propagation

    There are 3 ways to propagate amaryllis:

    1. Through Seeds. Look for seed pods about four weeks after your amaryllis begins to flower. When the seeds are ready, they’ll split open a bit and turn yellow. Then you can gently shake out the little black seeds.
    2. Separating bulbs/offsets. Look for firm bulblet that are about a third of the size of the “mother” bulb. Trim back any extra foliage to 2 inches above the bulb. Gently remove the bulblets and replant as soon as possible. You can remove the bulblets with either a small knife or just your fingers.
    3. Choose a bulb at least 6 inches in diameter. Cut into four pieces, vertically, making sure each section has at least two scales. Plant with the basal plate (bottom) of the bulb pointing down, covering only a third of the bulb with soil.
  • pest control

    Keep an eye out for common pests like mealybugs and fungus gnats. If you spot these pesky bugs, you can use a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap to get rid of them without damaging your plant.


  • Why won’t my amaryllis bloom?

    There could be a few reasons. The main reason could be that your amaryllis isn’t getting enough light. Once you’ve moved your plant to a bright window that gets light for about 4 hours a day, you should see blooms. Still nothing? Try adding a little plant food to bump up the nutrients. Consider using a tropical plant food like Miracle-Gro® Tropical Plant Food.

  • Why are my amaryllis leave drooping?

    Over or underwatering. The issue could also be that your amaryllis isn’t getting enough light. If you know that your watering schedule is okay, then try moving your plant to a more direct light source.

  • How do I know if my amaryllis bulb is rotten?

    Look for colour and texture. If your bulb has a uniform colour and firm texture, it’s a healthy bulb. If you spot signs of a pest infestation, mold or any damage to the actual bulb, these are red flags that indicate your bulb will likely rot. Seeing shriveled or brown skin on the outside? That’s totally normal.

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