Bean gardeners also become accomplished engineers. Their fast-growing vines need poles, strings, trellises… there are so many varieties and so many ways to train them.
There are many variations of green beans, such as: pinto beans, lima beans, wax beans, Romano beans, and Royal Burgundy
These rapid-growing veggies like 6 to 8 hours of solar power.
Water the plants once a week in dry weather. Keep an eagle eye on the soil when the beans are blooming and starting their little pods. Do not let the soil dry out during this key time. Dry conditions can cause your blooms to drop too early and that will reduce your bean count. Consistent soil moisture yields the best quality harvest. Water thoroughly once a week if there’s no rain.
Some beans may upset the digestion of cats and dogs. Green beans are generally safe in small quantities.
Bush beans grow to 2 feet tall and are the stand alone variety. Staked or pole beans can grow an impressive 10 to 15 feet along, or even straight up.
They have fragile roots, that don’t transplant well. The good new? Beans grow so quickly (about 45 days from planting to harvest) that you don’t need to start them early.
After tomatoes, and then peppers, beans are the most beloved garden vegetable.
Bush beans: Don’t plant too early. Beans grow quickly and like warm conditions. Plant seeds in rows, 1 inch deep and 1 to 2 inches apart. Space the rows 2½ to 3 feet apart. Once the beans sprout, thin out half the shoots so your plants are 3 to 4 inches apart.
Pole beans: Don’t plant too early. Beans grow quickly and like warm conditions. Till the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, breaking up large clods of earth. Plant 3 to 4 seeds together in raised mounds. Seeds should be 1 inch under the surface. Space your mounds 3 to 4 feet apart in neat rows. Firmly insert a 6- to 8-foot stake in the center of each mound.
Carrots, cabbage, cauliflower Brussel sprouts, celery, kale, lettuce, parsley, peas, spinach strawberries, Swiss chard and tomatoes, make excellent companions for green beans.
Depends on the variety, but generally speaking, overmature beans grow tough and less tender. Green beans are ready to pick when they reach the size of a half-used pencil. Pick gently to avoid damaging the plant.
Beans a hardy, speedy growers but they are susceptible to pests. The western spotted cucumber beetle can ravage green bean plants. This beetle is shaped kind of like a ladybug, and has yellow-green back with 12 large dots. Aphids are another green been pest. Check under you leaves regularly for clusters of these tiny yellowish-green bugs. Other insect pests of green beans include thrips, whiteflies, leafhoppers and Mexican bean beetles. All can be managed with a safe pest spray like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide.
Could be a fungal infection known as Anthracnose. This disease causes reddish brown marks known as “rust” on the leaves and vines. Apply a fungicide soap. Long term tip: rotate your crops to help fight this problem.
Could be Aphids or Whiteflies. Check under the leaves for sap-sucking Aphids (tiny, usually yellowish-green clusters of bugs ). Whiteflies are small bugs with white wings. They aren’t directly harmful to your beans, but they can carry the Cucurbit Leaf Crumple Virus. Fight these pests with a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide . Don’t plant anything new near the plants that you’re treating.
Soil isn’t warm enough. Beans love warm soil and don’t grow well when it’s cold. They grow so fast that you can start later in the growing season. Plant in warm, sunny spots. Not enough water could also be the issue. Moist soil is especially important during flowering and the early pod stage. Another common mistake is using too much fertilizer. Beans have the amazing and rare ability to pull nitrogen from the air, so they don’t need nitrogen fertilizer in their soil. High nitrogen generally makes food plants grow lots of greenery and not many flowers. A garden centre can test your soil nitrogen levels if you want to get scientific.
Most beans are self-pollinating plants that don’t require bees or other helpful bugs. But some DO need pollinators. Check to see which type you have.
If you do need pollinators, plant some bright, colourful flowers in your garden to attract pollinators. In the short term, you can be the bee! Get a small paintbrush and gently spread pollen around all your flowers.
Damage at the base of the vine. Did a bean pole shift? Did string wind flip over your bean bush? Protect that base by firmly securing poles and make sure everything is secure. If you have a firmly secured pole in place before you plant your seedlings, you can often avoid this problem.
Bean gardeners also become accomplished engineers. Their fast-growing vines need poles, strings, trellises… there are so many varieties and so many ways to train them.
There are many variations of green beans, such as: pinto beans, lima beans, wax beans, Romano beans, and Royal Burgundy
These rapid-growing veggies like 6 to 8 hours of solar power.
Water the plants once a week in dry weather. Keep an eagle eye on the soil when the beans are blooming and starting their little pods. Do not let the soil dry out during this key time. Dry conditions can cause your blooms to drop too early and that will reduce your bean count. Consistent soil moisture yields the best quality harvest. Water thoroughly once a week if there’s no rain.
Some beans may upset the digestion of cats and dogs. Green beans are generally safe in small quantities.
Bush beans grow to 2 feet tall and are the stand alone variety. Staked or pole beans can grow an impressive 10 to 15 feet along, or even straight up.
They have fragile roots, that don’t transplant well. The good new? Beans grow so quickly (about 45 days from planting to harvest) that you don’t need to start them early.
After tomatoes, and then peppers, beans are the most beloved garden vegetable.
Bush beans: Don’t plant too early. Beans grow quickly and like warm conditions. Plant seeds in rows, 1 inch deep and 1 to 2 inches apart. Space the rows 2½ to 3 feet apart. Once the beans sprout, thin out half the shoots so your plants are 3 to 4 inches apart.
Pole beans: Don’t plant too early. Beans grow quickly and like warm conditions. Till the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, breaking up large clods of earth. Plant 3 to 4 seeds together in raised mounds. Seeds should be 1 inch under the surface. Space your mounds 3 to 4 feet apart in neat rows. Firmly insert a 6- to 8-foot stake in the center of each mound.
Carrots, cabbage, cauliflower Brussel sprouts, celery, kale, lettuce, parsley, peas, spinach strawberries, Swiss chard and tomatoes, make excellent companions for green beans.
Depends on the variety, but generally speaking, overmature beans grow tough and less tender. Green beans are ready to pick when they reach the size of a half-used pencil. Pick gently to avoid damaging the plant.
Beans a hardy, speedy growers but they are susceptible to pests. The western spotted cucumber beetle can ravage green bean plants. This beetle is shaped kind of like a ladybug, and has yellow-green back with 12 large dots. Aphids are another green been pest. Check under you leaves regularly for clusters of these tiny yellowish-green bugs. Other insect pests of green beans include thrips, whiteflies, leafhoppers and Mexican bean beetles. All can be managed with a safe pest spray like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide.
Could be a fungal infection known as Anthracnose. This disease causes reddish brown marks known as “rust” on the leaves and vines. Apply a fungicide soap. Long term tip: rotate your crops to help fight this problem.
Could be Aphids or Whiteflies. Check under the leaves for sap-sucking Aphids (tiny, usually yellowish-green clusters of bugs ). Whiteflies are small bugs with white wings. They aren’t directly harmful to your beans, but they can carry the Cucurbit Leaf Crumple Virus. Fight these pests with a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide . Don’t plant anything new near the plants that you’re treating.
Soil isn’t warm enough. Beans love warm soil and don’t grow well when it’s cold. They grow so fast that you can start later in the growing season. Plant in warm, sunny spots. Not enough water could also be the issue. Moist soil is especially important during flowering and the early pod stage. Another common mistake is using too much fertilizer. Beans have the amazing and rare ability to pull nitrogen from the air, so they don’t need nitrogen fertilizer in their soil. High nitrogen generally makes food plants grow lots of greenery and not many flowers. A garden centre can test your soil nitrogen levels if you want to get scientific.
Most beans are self-pollinating plants that don’t require bees or other helpful bugs. But some DO need pollinators. Check to see which type you have.
If you do need pollinators, plant some bright, colourful flowers in your garden to attract pollinators. In the short term, you can be the bee! Get a small paintbrush and gently spread pollen around all your flowers.
Damage at the base of the vine. Did a bean pole shift? Did string wind flip over your bean bush? Protect that base by firmly securing poles and make sure everything is secure. If you have a firmly secured pole in place before you plant your seedlings, you can often avoid this problem.
Bean gardeners also become accomplished engineers. Their fast-growing vines need poles, strings, trellises… there are so many varieties and so many ways to train them.
There are many variations of green beans, such as: pinto beans, lima beans, wax beans, Romano beans, and Royal Burgundy
These rapid-growing veggies like 6 to 8 hours of solar power.
Water the plants once a week in dry weather. Keep an eagle eye on the soil when the beans are blooming and starting their little pods. Do not let the soil dry out during this key time. Dry conditions can cause your blooms to drop too early and that will reduce your bean count. Consistent soil moisture yields the best quality harvest. Water thoroughly once a week if there’s no rain.
Some beans may upset the digestion of cats and dogs. Green beans are generally safe in small quantities.
Bush beans grow to 2 feet tall and are the stand alone variety. Staked or pole beans can grow an impressive 10 to 15 feet along, or even straight up.
They have fragile roots, that don’t transplant well. The good new? Beans grow so quickly (about 45 days from planting to harvest) that you don’t need to start them early.
After tomatoes, and then peppers, beans are the most beloved garden vegetable.
Bush beans: Don’t plant too early. Beans grow quickly and like warm conditions. Plant seeds in rows, 1 inch deep and 1 to 2 inches apart. Space the rows 2½ to 3 feet apart. Once the beans sprout, thin out half the shoots so your plants are 3 to 4 inches apart.
Pole beans: Don’t plant too early. Beans grow quickly and like warm conditions. Till the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, breaking up large clods of earth. Plant 3 to 4 seeds together in raised mounds. Seeds should be 1 inch under the surface. Space your mounds 3 to 4 feet apart in neat rows. Firmly insert a 6- to 8-foot stake in the center of each mound.
Carrots, cabbage, cauliflower Brussel sprouts, celery, kale, lettuce, parsley, peas, spinach strawberries, Swiss chard and tomatoes, make excellent companions for green beans.
Depends on the variety, but generally speaking, overmature beans grow tough and less tender. Green beans are ready to pick when they reach the size of a half-used pencil. Pick gently to avoid damaging the plant.
Beans a hardy, speedy growers but they are susceptible to pests. The western spotted cucumber beetle can ravage green bean plants. This beetle is shaped kind of like a ladybug, and has yellow-green back with 12 large dots. Aphids are another green been pest. Check under you leaves regularly for clusters of these tiny yellowish-green bugs. Other insect pests of green beans include thrips, whiteflies, leafhoppers and Mexican bean beetles. All can be managed with a safe pest spray like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide.
Could be a fungal infection known as Anthracnose. This disease causes reddish brown marks known as “rust” on the leaves and vines. Apply a fungicide soap. Long term tip: rotate your crops to help fight this problem.
Could be Aphids or Whiteflies. Check under the leaves for sap-sucking Aphids (tiny, usually yellowish-green clusters of bugs ). Whiteflies are small bugs with white wings. They aren’t directly harmful to your beans, but they can carry the Cucurbit Leaf Crumple Virus. Fight these pests with a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide . Don’t plant anything new near the plants that you’re treating.
Soil isn’t warm enough. Beans love warm soil and don’t grow well when it’s cold. They grow so fast that you can start later in the growing season. Plant in warm, sunny spots. Not enough water could also be the issue. Moist soil is especially important during flowering and the early pod stage. Another common mistake is using too much fertilizer. Beans have the amazing and rare ability to pull nitrogen from the air, so they don’t need nitrogen fertilizer in their soil. High nitrogen generally makes food plants grow lots of greenery and not many flowers. A garden centre can test your soil nitrogen levels if you want to get scientific.
Most beans are self-pollinating plants that don’t require bees or other helpful bugs. But some DO need pollinators. Check to see which type you have.
If you do need pollinators, plant some bright, colourful flowers in your garden to attract pollinators. In the short term, you can be the bee! Get a small paintbrush and gently spread pollen around all your flowers.
Damage at the base of the vine. Did a bean pole shift? Did string wind flip over your bean bush? Protect that base by firmly securing poles and make sure everything is secure. If you have a firmly secured pole in place before you plant your seedlings, you can often avoid this problem.
Bean gardeners also become accomplished engineers. Their fast-growing vines need poles, strings, trellises… there are so many varieties and so many ways to train them.
There are many variations of green beans, such as: pinto beans, lima beans, wax beans, Romano beans, and Royal Burgundy
These rapid-growing veggies like 6 to 8 hours of solar power.
Water the plants once a week in dry weather. Keep an eagle eye on the soil when the beans are blooming and starting their little pods. Do not let the soil dry out during this key time. Dry conditions can cause your blooms to drop too early and that will reduce your bean count. Consistent soil moisture yields the best quality harvest. Water thoroughly once a week if there’s no rain.
Some beans may upset the digestion of cats and dogs. Green beans are generally safe in small quantities.
Bush beans grow to 2 feet tall and are the stand alone variety. Staked or pole beans can grow an impressive 10 to 15 feet along, or even straight up.
They have fragile roots, that don’t transplant well. The good new? Beans grow so quickly (about 45 days from planting to harvest) that you don’t need to start them early.
After tomatoes, and then peppers, beans are the most beloved garden vegetable.
Bush beans: Don’t plant too early. Beans grow quickly and like warm conditions. Plant seeds in rows, 1 inch deep and 1 to 2 inches apart. Space the rows 2½ to 3 feet apart. Once the beans sprout, thin out half the shoots so your plants are 3 to 4 inches apart.
Pole beans: Don’t plant too early. Beans grow quickly and like warm conditions. Till the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, breaking up large clods of earth. Plant 3 to 4 seeds together in raised mounds. Seeds should be 1 inch under the surface. Space your mounds 3 to 4 feet apart in neat rows. Firmly insert a 6- to 8-foot stake in the center of each mound.
Carrots, cabbage, cauliflower Brussel sprouts, celery, kale, lettuce, parsley, peas, spinach strawberries, Swiss chard and tomatoes, make excellent companions for green beans.
Depends on the variety, but generally speaking, overmature beans grow tough and less tender. Green beans are ready to pick when they reach the size of a half-used pencil. Pick gently to avoid damaging the plant.
Beans a hardy, speedy growers but they are susceptible to pests. The western spotted cucumber beetle can ravage green bean plants. This beetle is shaped kind of like a ladybug, and has yellow-green back with 12 large dots. Aphids are another green been pest. Check under you leaves regularly for clusters of these tiny yellowish-green bugs. Other insect pests of green beans include thrips, whiteflies, leafhoppers and Mexican bean beetles. All can be managed with a safe pest spray like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide.
Could be a fungal infection known as Anthracnose. This disease causes reddish brown marks known as “rust” on the leaves and vines. Apply a fungicide soap. Long term tip: rotate your crops to help fight this problem.
Could be Aphids or Whiteflies. Check under the leaves for sap-sucking Aphids (tiny, usually yellowish-green clusters of bugs ). Whiteflies are small bugs with white wings. They aren’t directly harmful to your beans, but they can carry the Cucurbit Leaf Crumple Virus. Fight these pests with a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide . Don’t plant anything new near the plants that you’re treating.
Soil isn’t warm enough. Beans love warm soil and don’t grow well when it’s cold. They grow so fast that you can start later in the growing season. Plant in warm, sunny spots. Not enough water could also be the issue. Moist soil is especially important during flowering and the early pod stage. Another common mistake is using too much fertilizer. Beans have the amazing and rare ability to pull nitrogen from the air, so they don’t need nitrogen fertilizer in their soil. High nitrogen generally makes food plants grow lots of greenery and not many flowers. A garden centre can test your soil nitrogen levels if you want to get scientific.
Most beans are self-pollinating plants that don’t require bees or other helpful bugs. But some DO need pollinators. Check to see which type you have.
If you do need pollinators, plant some bright, colourful flowers in your garden to attract pollinators. In the short term, you can be the bee! Get a small paintbrush and gently spread pollen around all your flowers.
Damage at the base of the vine. Did a bean pole shift? Did string wind flip over your bean bush? Protect that base by firmly securing poles and make sure everything is secure. If you have a firmly secured pole in place before you plant your seedlings, you can often avoid this problem.
Bean gardeners also become accomplished engineers. Their fast-growing vines need poles, strings, trellises… there are so many varieties and so many ways to train them.
There are many variations of green beans, such as: pinto beans, lima beans, wax beans, Romano beans, and Royal Burgundy
These rapid-growing veggies like 6 to 8 hours of solar power.
Water the plants once a week in dry weather. Keep an eagle eye on the soil when the beans are blooming and starting their little pods. Do not let the soil dry out during this key time. Dry conditions can cause your blooms to drop too early and that will reduce your bean count. Consistent soil moisture yields the best quality harvest. Water thoroughly once a week if there’s no rain.
Some beans may upset the digestion of cats and dogs. Green beans are generally safe in small quantities.
Bush beans grow to 2 feet tall and are the stand alone variety. Staked or pole beans can grow an impressive 10 to 15 feet along, or even straight up.
They have fragile roots, that don’t transplant well. The good new? Beans grow so quickly (about 45 days from planting to harvest) that you don’t need to start them early.
After tomatoes, and then peppers, beans are the most beloved garden vegetable.
Bush beans: Don’t plant too early. Beans grow quickly and like warm conditions. Plant seeds in rows, 1 inch deep and 1 to 2 inches apart. Space the rows 2½ to 3 feet apart. Once the beans sprout, thin out half the shoots so your plants are 3 to 4 inches apart.
Pole beans: Don’t plant too early. Beans grow quickly and like warm conditions. Till the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, breaking up large clods of earth. Plant 3 to 4 seeds together in raised mounds. Seeds should be 1 inch under the surface. Space your mounds 3 to 4 feet apart in neat rows. Firmly insert a 6- to 8-foot stake in the center of each mound.
Carrots, cabbage, cauliflower Brussel sprouts, celery, kale, lettuce, parsley, peas, spinach strawberries, Swiss chard and tomatoes, make excellent companions for green beans.
Depends on the variety, but generally speaking, overmature beans grow tough and less tender. Green beans are ready to pick when they reach the size of a half-used pencil. Pick gently to avoid damaging the plant.
Beans a hardy, speedy growers but they are susceptible to pests. The western spotted cucumber beetle can ravage green bean plants. This beetle is shaped kind of like a ladybug, and has yellow-green back with 12 large dots. Aphids are another green been pest. Check under you leaves regularly for clusters of these tiny yellowish-green bugs. Other insect pests of green beans include thrips, whiteflies, leafhoppers and Mexican bean beetles. All can be managed with a safe pest spray like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide.
Could be a fungal infection known as Anthracnose. This disease causes reddish brown marks known as “rust” on the leaves and vines. Apply a fungicide soap. Long term tip: rotate your crops to help fight this problem.
Could be Aphids or Whiteflies. Check under the leaves for sap-sucking Aphids (tiny, usually yellowish-green clusters of bugs ). Whiteflies are small bugs with white wings. They aren’t directly harmful to your beans, but they can carry the Cucurbit Leaf Crumple Virus. Fight these pests with a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide . Don’t plant anything new near the plants that you’re treating.
Soil isn’t warm enough. Beans love warm soil and don’t grow well when it’s cold. They grow so fast that you can start later in the growing season. Plant in warm, sunny spots. Not enough water could also be the issue. Moist soil is especially important during flowering and the early pod stage. Another common mistake is using too much fertilizer. Beans have the amazing and rare ability to pull nitrogen from the air, so they don’t need nitrogen fertilizer in their soil. High nitrogen generally makes food plants grow lots of greenery and not many flowers. A garden centre can test your soil nitrogen levels if you want to get scientific.
Most beans are self-pollinating plants that don’t require bees or other helpful bugs. But some DO need pollinators. Check to see which type you have.
If you do need pollinators, plant some bright, colourful flowers in your garden to attract pollinators. In the short term, you can be the bee! Get a small paintbrush and gently spread pollen around all your flowers.
Damage at the base of the vine. Did a bean pole shift? Did string wind flip over your bean bush? Protect that base by firmly securing poles and make sure everything is secure. If you have a firmly secured pole in place before you plant your seedlings, you can often avoid this problem.
Companion plants are plants that lend a helping leaf to one another in terms of growth and production. One plant may attract an insect that might protect a companion plant. Another plant may act as a repellent for a bug that might be harmful to the plant next to it.
When growing different varieties of plants side by side, try to group them together by water needs. Deep-rooted vegetables like tomatoes and asparagus should be placed in the same bed, as they will thrive with less frequent (but more thorough) watering that soaks deep into the soil.
Shallow- to medium-rooted plants like beans and chard benefit from more frequent watering that saturates just the first few inches of soil. Wind soaker hoses around your plants and attach them to dual outlet electronic timers to easily manage your watering schedule for different beds.
Companion planting is a great way to ensure you have a garden that will grow healthy plants and produce large bounties. A lot of work goes into maintaining a productive garden, so it is worth the time, effort and research it takes to grow like-minded plants that will help each other out. We hope this takes some of the guesswork out of the process for you!
The most flexible way to grow lots of plants and vegetables is in containers. Whether it’s baskets, buckets, boxes, and barrels … your options are endless.
Container gardening is extremely versatile, you can grow anything and everything. Vegetables, flowers, herbs, shrubs, trees, you don’t have to pick one you can or all of them together. A filled planter can be heavy to move, so decide where your container garden will go and set up there.
Once you’ve found your spot, here are some herb and vegetable container gardens that are easy to grow – and tasty, too.
1. Salad Garden: Lettuces, cherry tomatoes, herbs
2. Pizza Garden: Basil, oregano, tomatoes, peppers
3. Perennial Herbs: Mint, lemon balm & oregano
In gardening there is a saying, it’s thriller, filler, and spiller. The “It” is the wow factor and getting it in your container garden is as easy as 1-2-3.
All container gardens need a little TLC. Container plants need airy soil that lets them spread their roots, plain soil is too dense. That means using something that promotes good drainage and proper airflow like Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix.
Your first step before planting, is to wet your potting mix well. Water the mix well and stir, making sure it’s moist all the way through. Next add your plant and top with more mix, leaving a little room at the top for watering.
Next trim any circling roots, then plant to about the same depth as the grow pot. Water often, making sure the mix doesn’t dry out.
An important ingredient to a thriving garden that is often overlooked is plant food. Plants pull nutrients from the soil to grow and those nutrients need to be replenished. Using a slow release fertilizer on its own is a great, low fuss option. It provides a small amount of food for an extended period – up to 3 months. Water soluble plant food is a great option too, but are more high maintenance. They provide a lot of nutrients instantly, and deliver results for your garden when used every 7-14 days.
For those who want results but find it hard to stick to a schedule, use a bit of both. Put down Miracle-Gro® Shake ‘n Feed® at the beginning of the season and after the first month, and boost your garden with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Plant Food when you remember throughout the season.
Frustrated by finding pests in the garden? Don’t waste time and money treating pests. Instead, follow our guide for preventing pests from becoming a problem in the first place. Test
We’re here to tell you. Annual flowers grow for one season, then die with the onset of freezing weather. Annuals are a great way to change the look of your garden from year to year. They also tend to have a longer flowering period than perennials. With perennials the above ground the portion of flower dies off in freezing weather, but the plant returns from the base and rootstock the following spring. Perennials give you the most value for your money as they keep returning year after year. Their flowering season is usually shorter so make sure to plant different varieties to keep your garden colourful throughout the season.
We have a few suggestions to help you choose your annuals. Popular flowers include petunias, marigolds, zinnias and impatiens. If you’re looking for something a little more exotic than these traditional bedding plants, try spider flower (cleome), gazania, vinca and lisianthus.
Some annuals are known for their attractive foliage and not their flowers. Try coleus, Joseph’s coat (Alternanthera) or dusty miller.
Add some edible interest to your annual garden with plants like ornamental peppers, flowering cabbage and okra.
Perennials are a smorgasbord of colours, textures and sizes. Some of the most popular perennials include daylilies, hostas, and peonies. For a spikey show of blue, try blazing star. For a delicate bouquet of yellow, try the coreopsis variety called Moonbeam. For dramatic late-season colour, the black-eyed susan and purple coneflower are showstoppers.
Happily, there’s no need to pick a favourite for your garden. Annuals and perennials can be combined and you’ll get to enjoy the best of both worlds. Annuals are hard to beat in terms of show stopping, season-long colour. Perennials will give you long lasting value for your money. Since the perennial flowering season is usually shorter, make sure to offset different varieties to keep the colour going throughout the season. Good planning will keep your garden blooming and thriving all season long.
New to gardening? No problem-o. You can start your own dream garden with these 10 easy-to-follow tips.
Stock up on the basic tools you need to make it easier to grow, and keep at it.
A great garden takes a little time to grow.
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