How-To with Once Upon a Bungalow: DIY House Number Planter

Materials You’ll Need

• 1 Natural laminated pine (0.70-in x 15.25-in x 96-in) 
• 1 SPF Select Lumber – Pine (96” x 8” x 1”)
• 8” House Numbers 
• Solar Light
• Tape Measure
• Pencil
• Painters Tape
• T-Square, straight edge or ruler
• Various sizes of clamps
• Stain
• Paint
• Exterior wood varnish
• Wood Filler
• Wood Glue
• Brad Nails (1”)
• 3” Screws
• ⅜” Drill bit
• Landscaping Fabric
• Staples
• Work benches or a work surface
• Saftey glasses
• Hearing protection
• Mask

Tools

• Circular Saw
• Table Saw 
• Mitre Saw
• Brad Nailer or Pin Nailer
• Power Drill
• Level
• Staple Gun

Step 1: Make the First Cut

Start with the Natural laminated pine (0.70-in x 15.25-in x 96-in) and decide which side will be the face of the project, to which the house numbers will be attached. Measure 56” from the top and mark with a pencil. Using a T-Square or another straight edge, mark this measurement across. Measure 7” down from this marking, and use a straight edge to mark this as well. This marking will be the first cut.

Use clamps to hold the wood down to the work surface to prevent movement when making the cut. Be sure to wear safety glasses, ear protection, and a mask if you desire. Using a circular saw, make the cut following the second marking made. This will leave 40” of leftover material. Refer to the photos below.

Step 2: Cut the face of the Planter

Flip the remaining board to work on the factory-cut side; this will give the straightest edge to cut from. Measure 7” from the factory-cut side and, using a T-square or straight edge, mark this cut line with a pencil. Clamp the material to the work surface. Use the circular saw to make this cut. Repeat this step once more to create another 7” piece. Refer to the images below.

Step 3: Cut the Side Pieces

To construct the sides of the planter box, use one of the 7” pieces and mark 4 ½” in from the side with a pencil and a straightedge. This will create a 7” x 4 ½” piece. Use a mitre saw to make this cut. Using the leftover material from this cut, repeat the following steps to make another 7” x 4 ½” piece. This has created the two sides of the planter. Refer to the images below.

Step 4: Cut the Bottom an Add Drainage Holes

Now, make the bottom piece of the planter. This piece should measure 13 ½” x 4 ½”. Use the remaining piece of pine and measure 4 ½” up from the bottom of the piece. Mark this measurement using a T-Square and a pencil. Attach the wood to your work surface using clamps. Using the circular saw, cut along this line. Next, make drainage holes. Using a drill and a ⅜” drill bit, make 5 holes in the piece of wood evenly spaced. See attached reference images below.

Step 5: Construct the flower box

Now that all the base pieces have been cut, use wood glue to form a small bead along the edges of the side pieces. Use clamps to anchor the sides to the bottom of each side of the main board. Use a brad nailer and 1” brad nails to attach from the back side up into the side pieces. Once these are secure, remove the clamps. Add a small bead of glue around the sides and base of the planter.

Then place the bottom piece (the one with drainage holes) between the two side pieces, along the bottom of the main piece. Attach using the brad nailer through the side pieces into the bottom piece and through the back of the project into the bottom piece.

Next, apply another thin bead of wood glue to the front of the project and carefully align the face part of the planter box. Once this piece is aligned, attach with brad nails through the face of the planter into the sides and bottom of the planter box. Refer to the reference images below.

Step 6: Add the Finishing Trim around the Outside

The next step is to add the finishing trim. This will cover the brad nail holes and give the project a finished look. Using a table saw, cut the SPF Select Lumber – Pine (96” x 8” x 1”) into 1 ¼” strips lengthwise. This size will allow the trim to extrude from the sign, giving the project some depth.

Once the strips of pine have been cut on the table saw, hold the piece directly next to the project and mark the length of the right and left trim with a pencil. Be mindful that this will be cut at a 45-degree angle, and this measurement will be the inside edge of that 45-degree angle.

Cut the two long side pieces at a 45-degree angle, acknowledging that the 1 ¼” length is the correct orientation that will give you some overhang. Cut using a mitre saw.

Measure the bottom and top by holding up the 1 ¼” piece of wood to the bottom and top and marking the measurement with a pencil. Use a mitre saw to make this cut. Attach the right and left sides to the project using wood glue and a brad nailer. Refer to the images below.

Step 7: Add the Finishing Trim

Next, trim around the planter portion of the project. Using the 1 ¼” pine strips that were previously cut on the table saw, hold a piece of wood up to each side of the planter. Mark this measurement with a pencil, then cut along this mark at a 90-degree angle with a mitre saw. Create one piece for each side. Use a small bead of nail glue and attach with a brad nailer to each side of the planter. Refer to image one below.

Once these are attached, the next step is to create a frame around the planter’s face. These four pieces will be cut at a 45-degree angle. Use the same method as explained previously by holding up the 1 ¼” strips to the project along the front of the planter, marking this measurement with a pencil and then using the mitre saw to cut at a 45-degree angle. Repeat this for all four sides. Using a small bead of wood glue and a brad nailer, attach these pieces.

After these are attached, use the 1 ¼” strip of wood and hold it up to the side of the planter. This is the piece that will go in between the front and back and run along the sides. Cut these pieces at a 90-degree angle and use a small bead of wood glue and a brad nailer to attach them. Refer to the reference images below.

Step 8: Add the Top Finishing Trim

With the remaining 1 ¼” strips, measure the top of the planter on the left-hand side. Plan for a ¼” overhang on the top pieces. Mark this measurement with a pencil and then make a 45-degree cut on the mitre saw.

Once both sides are cut, cut the front finishing piece using the same steps. Measure the 1 ¼” piece between the two side pieces, mark this measurement with a pencil and then use a mitre saw to make the 45-degree cut. Use a small bead of wood glue along the top of the planter and attach using the brad nailer and 1” brad nails.

Step 9: Stain & Paint

The next step is to stain to the desired colour and finish. The example below shows an American oak colour stain along with a satin black paint. Finish the planter with two coats of exterior varnish. Refer to the images below.

Step 10: Finishing Details

Add landscaping fabric to the interior of the planter box and secure with staples. Add the soil to the planter box. Miracle-Gro Potting Mix is a great soil choice for this project, as it contains built-in slow-release fertilizer. This soil is formulated with ingredients like peat moss and perlite; it is designed to feed plants for up to six months while promoting drainage and aeration.

Next, add the lighting and the numbers.  This link shows the lighting and numbers used for this project. Attach the lighting and the numbers using the provided screws after pre-drilling with a power drill to prevent the screws from splitting the wood and ruining the project’s finish.

Plant the desired flowers, utilizing the spiller-filler-thriller rule of thumb.

Thriller: The tall, eye-catching centrepiece that adds height and dramatic flair.

Filler: Mounded or rounded plants placed around the thriller to add volume, substance, and fill in bare spots.

Spiller: Trailing plants placed along the edges that spill and cascade over the sides, softening the container’s appearance.

Step 11: Hang the Planter

The final step is to anchor the project to the exterior of the house using 3” screws. Use a level to ensure the project is completely level and straight. Pre-drill through the project using a power drill, then use three screws at the top interior of the planter, one on each side and one in the middle. Repeat the same steps by predrilling and screwing at the top right and top left sides. For extra support, include one screw in the bottom base.

And there you have it!

This made such a difference to the overall curb appeal and aesthetics of the front of the house. Be sure to check out the reel of this project here. If you make a project inspired by this one, be sure to tag @plantprojectcanda and @onceuponabungalow so that we can see your version of this project!

Until next time,
Happy gardening!
Shavonne.

#happycreating!